SPArKy_Dave

'Engineered' aftermarket suspension arm failure - for an F-truck chassis in QLD -
https://www.facebook.com/SouthernChassisWorks/posts/934191238502847
 
@deankxf -
 

 

 

'Engineered' aftermarket suspension arm failure - for an F-truck chassis in QLD -
https://www.facebook.com/SouthernChassisWorks/posts/934191238502847
 
@deankxf -
 

 

 

'Engineered' aftermarket suspension arm failure - for an F-truck chassis in QLD -
https://www.facebook.com/SouthernChassisWorks/posts/934191238502847
 
@deankxf -
 

 

 

Wait so it's only partly there? Fuck me it might be a bigger job then I thought.

'Engineered' aftermarket suspension arm failure - for an F-truck chassis in QLD -
https://www.facebook.com/SouthernChassisWorks/posts/934191238502847
 
@deankxf -
 

 

 

the auto console can fit a manual fairly easy, the manual hole is too wide i think for the T bar display panel to be fitted. 
You'll need the hump fitted to the floor, XE and prior just unscrew and were available new from GT shops etc (XA to XE would be same or close enough) or drill the spotwelds off a Tbar etc one from a donor car XF 

if you just want the cluster swapped (easy) just get the fairlane cluster and the oil sender from the fairlane engine and it just plugs in and works.

if you want to fit the whole fairlane dash with the trip computer etc. well, it can fit, i don't know it if plugs up to the existing engine loom without any mods(possibly would just plug and play)
 

depending how noisy you like 
I'm old, i'd go with a factory spec muffler., 
but back in the day a baffled glass pack sounded nice, the straight through ones will be similar but louder. 
 
you can delete the center resonator (often cracks anyway) for almost no difference (if anything a slightly nicer sound) 

Aye. Had a look and it's a problem with the mufflers. They're rusted out anyway so I'm going to replace the exhaust with a stock size cat back system any recommendations for something?

personally i didn't rate the 2.5" exhaust on stock engines. mine went better with 2" even than the 2.25 one,(be different if jetting etc was being done on the carby on a dyno i suspect)

unless you like noise, the 2.5" makes a lot more noise, (i still reckon they sound better with a sports muffler on the stock exhaust size )
 
that's on a stock engine that only makes power to 4000rpm at best though (due to cam/valve springs) 
 

that's a win, it may be a blocked cat, or the guts of it blocking something further down the line if it fell out (one of My utes and a sedan did this, it came loose/turned sideways and was blocking the flow in the cat pipe..
i made a bolt fit tight in a piece of garden hose and smashed it up  while still fitted to the car (both times) due to i don't like udoing rusty exhaust bolts where possible.
could be a rats nest in the muffler if it's been parked for yonks also i guess
 

Give that man a cigar

I got the rest of the exhaust undone and she's sweet. How "unfortunate" that the stock exhaust is blocked. I guess I'm now forced to make a 2.5" exhaust system for it. In all seriousness thank you all for the help. Without the help I got here I would still be ripping my hair out hunting this problem. All I got to do now is fix that ignition lock and she's back on the road!

If it won't run at all unless held at WOT, suggests either massive over-fuelling, exhaust blockage, or timing related.
A temp gravity-fed fuel supply will work fine.
 
Put a vacuum gauge on it, check ur firing order, from cyl no.1 at TDC (153624).
If a suspected exhaust blockage - undo the EGR pipe/s into the manifold, and see if anything improves?
 
Wild-card -
a lazy/failing hall effect sensor in the distributor can still give a strong spark, but with incorrect timing.
 
What's the vehicle history - did u buy it non-running?
 

Ignore the 'MotoRad' wording... that's just the brand name of thermostat, which Tridon re-box's from India.
The spring part, goes into the cyl head.
The dome shape, faces the radiator as-per @deankxf's helpful picture.
 
What I would recommend though, is test the new thermostat in a pot of boiling water first,
using a thermometer to check it opens/closes correctly.
 
I never quite trust aftermarket parts these days - especially suspension components (see @deankxf).

Guys, thanks heaps, this had me sweating at 11pm haha.
 
I looked at the wording and was like ???? What??? Have I been wrong this entire time? (It happens a lot haha)
 
I went to look in the manual and it says "Place the thermostat back in reverse of removal" and without pictures I was nervous I was going to put it in wrong hahaha.
 
God I love this site.

that motorad looks like just a brand name?
that part goes into the head where the hot water touches the spring part to let it open. 

so opposite to how you are holding it in the first pic
like below (only pic i could find on google)

I agree it's crazy why .  Yes in the early falcons they did . I'm not 100% sure exactly which. Might been pre XP ? 
 
Might also been to do with some early 6 cylinders , 144 , 170 etc had a very small bellhousing pattern at the motor side and hence smaller bellhousing.
Those I think had the Ford o matic but when they went to the 200 auto went to the BW35
 
Came across it also when a friend got a U.S Falcon , was a 3 speed manual 6 cylinder.  When I built a C4 to go in it with a 302 the tunnel needed work

Here's an old video circa 2007 with my phone taped to the steering wheel running from zero to 180 kph (i was inventive back then) of my pick a part special 4.0 it made 144rwkw around this time, and it made 177 rwkw with a tune later on (video quality is representative of its time) it was in my xh ute with an ex taxi au short motor (from memory had more than 860,xxx ks), ef xr6 head (94 dt) ea cam, el bbm intake, super cat extractors, crow vernier cam gear, yella terra billet flywheel, high flow cat 2.5 inch exhaust, t5 and 3.45 gears, it was a lot of fun to an 18 year old me, I put over 180,xxxks on that engine before it let go when the stock valve train decided that 2 years of turning to 7000rpm was enough and it dropped a valve, after it was tuned the rev limiter was set to 7200rpm and it saw it every time it was in 1st gear (18 year old me was hard on the equipment) and sometimes more often than that, I wouldn't mind getting another e-series one day and replicating this combo, although it would be really fun in something lightweight like an xp falcon

Can anyone tell me if they hace pit a 4 spd auto in an xr 1966. I have one in my ute and think it maybe at the wrong agle for the box to tailshaft. Its possible someone couldnt get it up into the tunnel enough. Do xr xt xw xy have different tunnel sizes as in bigger than xr?

bumping this for new members @Crebe (quality of protex brake master cyl) 

DID YOU BENCH BLEED the master cyl before hooking the lines up? video here it's a must do for new master cyls. 
 
 
XF brakes should be fine,  when working. if it's a master issue, it will still be an issue on 6 pots, so you need to confirm that is the ussue. 
My best method for bleeding brakes now (on my own) is to get a LONG piece of fish tank bubbler hose, or similar clear 1/4 inch ish hose (bunnings even sold it last i bought)and a bit of rubber hose that fits it tight and to the bleeder nipple.
and i basically pump the pedal slowly and if the fluid is all brand new you can even return it to the reservoir in a loop and keep pumping until no bubbles show.  i'll draw you a fine picture with windows paint if you need an illustration.  otherwise you need to keep topping up the reservoir to avoid sucking air when it's low. 
do this for the 4 corners and it's been the only way i've been certain there's no air in the lines. 
those suction one's haven't worked for a few people i know,  so it's something you can try before going further.
 
 
 

A mate of mine just got a 1996 master cyl (original) from a wreck at the wreckers, it was clean so he's just fitted it and it worked. 
20yrs ago i was blasted for using second hand good quality ball joints in something compared to new crap we are talking about here. which later i finally tried and they could have caused a serious accident (i tagged you but i'll link here also)
 
 

Buy from china/india for 0.50c each, put in shipping container.
Ship to Australia.
Unload shipping container, sell to plebs for 10,000% markup?
 
To my knowledge, there's no real regulation of suspension/brake/general auto parts here in Aus, so they don't much care...
 
Even a 50% failure rate = still making money, it's very much buyer beware IMO.
(case-in-point - see @deankxf's experience with suspension components)
 

Wow, what a pain!
 
I've had gasket failure happen, mostly with 3spd BW Auto trans pans.
I usually spray cork gaskets with Hylomar sealant,
but found if I coat it too much without drying properly first, the gasket goes soft and breaks
 
My factory XB service manual says 7-9ftlb for the smaller pan bolts,
and 11-13ftlb for the larger ones at the end.

I really can't believe this, I'm so annoyed. I was very careful with the gasket install (I followed Clevo King's excellent video). Everything seemed good until the final torquing (just 12 ft lb) and the gasket split in the corner. This sump install on the garage floor was such a massive pain, at this point I think I'll just live with the damn leak for a year until I can be bothered to do it again (or if I decide to pull the motor at any point).
 
Any idea what I could have done to avoid this?
 

you can glue a dash mat on it.. fixed. 
the state of the other trim is pretty rough, sure it's not worth finding another interior or do you have good trim for it?

you can get them redone at huge expense ($800 rings a bell)
i've seen (and i'm likely to do similar on My gemini one) slicing out the high part of the crack so it's a bit lower than the top, mixing up some fibreglass resin and laying it in the crack , then bogging over, sanding and painting the whole thing . 
 
depends on your budget and if you care if it' cracks again(i think it's so brittle now it's likely to crack again anyway unless fully recovered)