Mr Polson

Steering box - they can be adjusted and tightened up, there's a nut/screw on the top of that which allows for adjustment.

Is it loose in straight ahead/just as you turn position? Or the whole way through the turning? A manual box will wear out in the straight ahead position the quickest.

As Dean said, I just had mine replaced in my XF, with a reco exchange unit through Repco.
Worth doing the Pitman Arm if you replace the box. Also check the condition of the flexible coupling that connects the steering box to the column. If it needs replacing I'd try to track down an original type, not urethane for manual steer.



Front end - have a look at your tie rods, ball joints and bushes. If the ball joints are riveted into the upper and lower control arms they're original, and probably due for replacement. Have fun getting the rivets out.

Tie rods, if they're worn replace them, and make sure you get decent ones - ask Dean about his incident with eBay ones. I recommend WASP ball joints/tie rods.

Bushes - you should be able to see how stuffed they are. Few cracks in them doesn't mean they're stuffed but if they're missing any chunks I'd be replacing. Particularly your lower inner control arm bushes - they control camber, and the radius rod bushes under the front radiator support.

I've got a full Nolathane front end under both my XFs and have had no issues. They also now do a "classic" bush which is black instead of the normal red, which looks more original.



Lowering - my XF ute is lowered 2.5" with Kings in the front and blocks in the back. My wagon is lowered 1.5" with Pedders front and blocks in back.
2.5 looks good but is definitely bumpier on the road and will need shortened shocks and short/cut bump stops.
1.5 retains a lot of road comfort, doesn't need shortened bump stops - is on the limit for shortened shocks (I have them).
Make sure you get a wheel alignment after lowering if you do.

Steering box - they can be adjusted and tightened up, there's a nut/screw on the top of that which allows for adjustment.

Is it loose in straight ahead/just as you turn position? Or the whole way through the turning? A manual box will wear out in the straight ahead position the quickest.

As Dean said, I just had mine replaced in my XF, with a reco exchange unit through Repco.
Worth doing the Pitman Arm if you replace the box. Also check the condition of the flexible coupling that connects the steering box to the column. If it needs replacing I'd try to track down an original type, not urethane for manual steer.



Front end - have a look at your tie rods, ball joints and bushes. If the ball joints are riveted into the upper and lower control arms they're original, and probably due for replacement. Have fun getting the rivets out.

Tie rods, if they're worn replace them, and make sure you get decent ones - ask Dean about his incident with eBay ones. I recommend WASP ball joints/tie rods.

Bushes - you should be able to see how stuffed they are. Few cracks in them doesn't mean they're stuffed but if they're missing any chunks I'd be replacing. Particularly your lower inner control arm bushes - they control camber, and the radius rod bushes under the front radiator support.

I've got a full Nolathane front end under both my XFs and have had no issues. They also now do a "classic" bush which is black instead of the normal red, which looks more original.



Lowering - my XF ute is lowered 2.5" with Kings in the front and blocks in the back. My wagon is lowered 1.5" with Pedders front and blocks in back.
2.5 looks good but is definitely bumpier on the road and will need shortened shocks and short/cut bump stops.
1.5 retains a lot of road comfort, doesn't need shortened bump stops - is on the limit for shortened shocks (I have them).
Make sure you get a wheel alignment after lowering if you do.

Steering box - they can be adjusted and tightened up, there's a nut/screw on the top of that which allows for adjustment.

Is it loose in straight ahead/just as you turn position? Or the whole way through the turning? A manual box will wear out in the straight ahead position the quickest.

As Dean said, I just had mine replaced in my XF, with a reco exchange unit through Repco.
Worth doing the Pitman Arm if you replace the box. Also check the condition of the flexible coupling that connects the steering box to the column. If it needs replacing I'd try to track down an original type, not urethane for manual steer.



Front end - have a look at your tie rods, ball joints and bushes. If the ball joints are riveted into the upper and lower control arms they're original, and probably due for replacement. Have fun getting the rivets out.

Tie rods, if they're worn replace them, and make sure you get decent ones - ask Dean about his incident with eBay ones. I recommend WASP ball joints/tie rods.

Bushes - you should be able to see how stuffed they are. Few cracks in them doesn't mean they're stuffed but if they're missing any chunks I'd be replacing. Particularly your lower inner control arm bushes - they control camber, and the radius rod bushes under the front radiator support.

I've got a full Nolathane front end under both my XFs and have had no issues. They also now do a "classic" bush which is black instead of the normal red, which looks more original.



Lowering - my XF ute is lowered 2.5" with Kings in the front and blocks in the back. My wagon is lowered 1.5" with Pedders front and blocks in back.
2.5 looks good but is definitely bumpier on the road and will need shortened shocks and short/cut bump stops.
1.5 retains a lot of road comfort, doesn't need shortened bump stops - is on the limit for shortened shocks (I have them).
Make sure you get a wheel alignment after lowering if you do.

Dean beat me to it, but yeah should be easy as. Almost all Falcons have had H4 (or sealed Beam) as their main headlight, including XD/E/F. XF had H4 (which does high and low beam), as well as a H3 for just high beam.

All you'll be doing is bypassing/ignoring/deleting the H3 because the H4 will work the same way.

Dean beat me to it, but yeah should be easy as. Almost all Falcons have had H4 (or sealed Beam) as their main headlight, including XD/E/F. XF had H4 (which does high and low beam), as well as a H3 for just high beam.

All you'll be doing is bypassing/ignoring/deleting the H3 because the H4 will work the same way.

Dean beat me to it, but yeah should be easy as. Almost all Falcons have had H4 (or sealed Beam) as their main headlight, including XD/E/F. XF had H4 (which does high and low beam), as well as a H3 for just high beam.

All you'll be doing is bypassing/ignoring/deleting the H3 because the H4 will work the same way.

I'll say this once for everyone AUTOMATIC GEARBOX will be in ALL my cars. I'll clear this up as well.. I restore cars for customers, I don't actually care about future resale, originality or any of the history unless it pertains to someone trying to hide dodgy work that might kill me. I'll build my cars for me, to suit me and what I do with them. Having said that, I do everything as if it could be factory work or can be easily undone if the next owner wishes.

That statement about engines and LPG is honestly a bit dopey.. What do you think 99% of ford sixes run on without faults? Generally speaking if it was made for unleaded, it won't have a problem running gas. (until the injection system dries out and pisses fuel everywhere when you try to use it after 3years of nothing)

Your memory is a bit fuzzy.. Rovers are rated at 150 although they wouldn't actually achieve it mostly.

My personal gripe with the engineering process is that NOBODY will give you an answer as to what the guy will charge to tick the damn boxes on the paperwork. What will it actually cost to get a v8 escort passed??? Nobody knows and if they do, they won't tell you.

I can't like that post..... it's been contaminated with diesel AND you used the "A****" word!!

My ute used to hit flashing red bars whenever it was warm and the oil was half or lower on the "OK" bit of the dipstick. Motor never really sounded noisy.
I did check it once with a pressure gauge and it was fine and within specs.

That was when I decided the gauges on the digital cluster are very much indicators rather than super accurate.

oil pressure is a balance between restriction to flow and flow capacity. 
Capacity (C) comes from the pump and increases with RPM.
Restriction is caused by the viscosity (V) of the oil and the sum of all of the size of the gaps your pushing it though (T). 
I guess it could look like
P = (CxRPM)/(VxT)
Pressure and flow (F) in the system are inversely related. P=/=F
F = CxRPMxTxV
 
You need to use whichever oil gives the flow you require, and provides sufficient film strength to protect the moving components. Do not be alarmed if your digital gauge is only showing 2 bars of pressure when at operating temp and at idle. This is fine. I would be more alarmed if your pressure was 2 bars over half when full. There is a misconception that thick oil = better protections and this is not always the case. Having oil that is too thick increases the risk of damage from thermal fracturing and Shearing of the VI's. It also reduces the ability of the oil to cool and increases load on the rotating assembly and the oil pump, costing efficiency. 
Too thin and it wont provide sufficient film strength.

There's obviously a lot more science in oils but i think that should sort you out.
 

EFI xflows still had the BW40. Was only EA and 88+ XF (ute/van) that had the BW51. The EFI BW40 is different internally but will still work fine behind a carby motor (and vice versa)

False Dave. Century are the only company that make batteries in Australia, but they also make quite a few batteries for other brand names.

Both SCA and Repco batteries are Century, mostly Aussie made batteries in different coloured cases with different stickers.

And correct on no battery to suit X series - they no longer provide holes in any of their terminals.

False Dave. Century are the only company that make batteries in Australia, but they also make quite a few batteries for other brand names.

Both SCA and Repco batteries are Century, mostly Aussie made batteries in different coloured cases with different stickers.

And correct on no battery to suit X series - they no longer provide holes in any of their terminals.

I've seen it happen before, the Speedo needle thing that is. Never knew what caused it.

Both my XFs have a wire going straight from back of alt to battery positive to add direct charge to the battery. One of them never used to have it, and it struggled to keep the battery charged.

I've seen it happen before, the Speedo needle thing that is. Never knew what caused it.

Both my XFs have a wire going straight from back of alt to battery positive to add direct charge to the battery. One of them never used to have it, and it struggled to keep the battery charged.

Bowden's Wax is design for maximum gloss and shine, rather than protection. They have synthetic sealants (Afterglow and Fully Slick) that have longer lasting protection than the Body Wax will.

Best way to use them is wax, let it cure (4hrs+) and then either (or both) Afterglow or FS. The sealants can also be layered on top for longer protection

I must admit my auto services have always been done by a mechanic with a flush machine, hook it up to the trans line and run the car, pumps old fluid out new fluid in, often takes 2x/3x times the fluid capacity to come out clean.

I've also been using Penrite for years, engine, diff, gearboxes (auto and manual), brake fluid, greases.


And Dave, as for why is TQ95 still on the shelf? Because Castrol is awful for updating their products, and representing and educating about their oils. I've been with Repco over 3 years now, and never seen a Castrol rep in either store I've worked in, and minimal product updates. Penrite I see a rep each fortnight, and continuous product improvements, new releases and product info.

Maybe 3 litres in a converter.....?
 
I agree with Dave, don't know what's in there, then go with the recommended fluid. Oil change and flush, stick in what ya want.

The vacuum problem is because the engine itself is vacuum-sealed. So if you have a vacuum leak anywhere on the engine, you get a lean-out because the engine is getting air by means other than through the air flow meter.

A lumpy cam, while it may well upset the factory tune, will still have the AFM metering whatever air it needs. Just like on a carby car, it might need some idle speed adjustment and richeing up a tad via the air bypass screw, maybe even a tweak to the vane spring or advance/retard the contact arm.

If you think of this early EEC4/Bosch L-jetronic system the same way as you would an SU carby, you'll see that no matter what cam is in it, the vane (or piston in the SU) will open only as far as the air demands it to. Then fuel is injected accordingly. It doesn't care about vacuum, only how much air is flowing through it.

The fact that the engine is vacuum-sealed is a separate issue.

The only problem I could see is if the vacuum is that low that the fuel pressure regulator goes to the high setting (thinking there's load). That would richen it up somewhat.

Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk

Spare parts is definitely the main focus but Repco does also do car care, accessories etc Repco also has a usable website now so can even look on there

Spare parts is definitely the main focus but Repco does also do car care, accessories etc Repco also has a usable website now so can even look on there

We've been told by the Penrite sales reps that in Tassie we don't need to use demineralised water with coolant because our tap water is rather soft compared to other places. Century still recommend it for their batteries though.

We have access to some pretty comprehensive info on the Penrite products, I'll have a look today and see if it provides any further info about their water if you'd like.

Scored this off my old man from his Ford days. Some good info in here. Related to the EEC IV (Electronic Engine Control 4) used in XF Falcon/Fairmont/ZL Fairlane/FE LTD. Its focused on the first (leaded) version but generally applies to the unleaded version too.
 
 
Pages 9 & 10 refer to a manual gear switch - I believe this refers only to the four speeds as the T5 wasn't introduced until unleaded models, and the 4.1 never received the "single rail" 5 speed.
 
 
 
 

Depends on condition and if they can be verified to be working correctly. I've paid up to $70 for the complete premium unit, and what I've found is a lot of them have a strange issue where they struggle to power up (Panko knows what I mean I think).

Ultra desirable - no, unless you find a XF Ghia/ZL/FE owner wanting one.

Dean's on the money, they're the radiator coolant low circuit wires, for XF Ghia, ZL and FE.

If the radiator was ever replaced the replacement may not have the tabs needed for the sensor hence the wires being disconnected