Lord_fahrquhar

Okay flow rockers are basically clevo type but in two stud sizes.
 
5/16 pedestal mount - no machining
7/16 stud mount - needs machining
 
The 5/16 this run the risk of pulling out at high rpm - but this is dependent on your cam size and valve spring pressure.  This is something ando gets very passionate about.  I’m surprised the mention of double springs hasn’t woken him up.
 
the 7/16ths are more common and easy to get but need the pedestal machines to take the stud mount.  They tend to be more stable but n high rpm scenarios, and then if you’re really serious in running a big cam you need pushrods and guide plates.  But this is a serious engine something that sacrifices some crossy strengths ( low down torque) and drive ability for those moments when you can hold a throttle fat and go waaa waaa waaa.
 
i have a set of the 5/16 adjustables in my xf.  It’s efi, they do not fit under the efi cover without an aussiespeed spacer.  It’s also not standard efi - eb inlet el ecu with quarter horse.
 
i could have gone v8 had less hassles but I kinda like how friendly the crossy is.  It’s not a fast combo but it’s a great streeter with a Bit of attitude which I’ve learnt a lot from.
 
Other guys like rob and ando will have their own bit to add to this but hopefully this helps in the interim
 
Dave 

Borgy's are cockroaches.  You wont kill em.  They'll survive a nuclear blast and several dozen banana skins.

Sound like said mechanic is a clown.

Sound like said mechanic is a clown.

Sound like said mechanic is a clown.

Fuck yeah I love it.

If you want my opinion (Hahah, Good one.) wihout reading the whole thread.

If you want EFI.
Fucking put it on. 
There is little to nil excuse for using throttle body injection of aftermarket "Bolt on" self learning systems when proper EFi installations can be adapted and used so easily with much better results.

If you want to keep a "carb" manifold and look. Just leave the fkn carby on it..

There are 2 screws on throttle body. One sets the butterfly so it never closes completely and this is to stop the butterfly "sticking" in the closed position. Aka it improves pedal feel.  The other is an air bypass.
For tuning idle both the pip wire and the iac should be disconnected as both will alter the idle speed. And the eng should be fully warmed up. 
If eng is fully warmed up and the iac is still altering idle speed, (and ac is off) then that leads me back to the clt sensor as possibly faulty. 
A wideband sniffer can be used for adjusting the afm.
And why are they playing with the knock sensor? Just unplug it if you think it's an issue and it will stop interfearing with the tune.
I have never had the knock sensor cause any issues (and I've had a lot of issues) and tbh i don't know if they even worked from factory. 
 
I know what does work. An aftermarket ecu. And all future eng issues can usually be diagnosed by plugging in a laptop and "oh, the ECU isn't getting 'x'. So I'll fix that"
You can also enjoy better fuel economy and can fuck off the pesky afm and say hello to a couple extra ponies. All without changing the appearance at all if you are tricky and gut the afm and leave it installed.
I think they make plug in megasquirts now that use the factory harness and connector. Just add EGO and a MAP line. 

For those that are also running high ball joint angles, savy motorsport make a rebuildable upper and lower ball joint. The uppers are also designed for low ride hights. The billet housing is machined so that it sits flat on the UCA, but is angled to place the joint closer to the middle of its movement at the arm angles most of us are running.

https://savymotorsport.com.au/product/ford-top-ball-joint-studs-and-parts/

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I’m with Thom...
 
youll be doing a rebuild shortly.  Easier to fix it now properly.  Saves labor too.
 
and it costs nothing to put something nicer in there but being efi anything bigger than a bees dick and it will drive shit.
 
 

agreed, he also likes to keep some things for himself and sometimes talks about high level stuff as if anyone can understand him (Vizard) but the man knows quite a bit, I remember the camshaft challenge where he picked the lift, duration, ramp rate just by looking at the engine bore/stroke and head flow/configuration and was within a few HP of what a professional camshaft engineer got! He's a bit of a grimy old man but worth paying some money to read his ramblings
I only got burned by backyard head specialists once to the tune of $400 and never again! that $400 extra for porting did absolutely noting but slightly port match the intake to the head, there were no burr marks then the head porter said "if you want proper porting mate it's from 5k upwards" I walked away, bought a book and a dremel tool, used blue die and a vacuum cleaning sucking ballbearings through the port to see it takes the die off to better understand flow.
I say this again ..... you can easily make the crossflow head to flow way past 450HP and it will be quiet BUT in order to make 430HP out of it so you can utilise the head flow you will have to spin it past the point where the piston speed is dangerous. Nobody wants to go 5000 Ft/min on piston speed because when it blows up they will come on the forums and blame the builder blah blah 
I like the crossflow engines and imho once you get over 350HP shit will break and will cost a bomb to make it live. At a quarter of the price you can go Barra forced fed never look back. There is no way you're going to build a crossflow for under 10k which will run 11's and last a season which is about 50 passes. And if you do build one that lasts 50 passes (road km's mean nothing here) and run's 11 then you'd run 9's with a Turbo Barra on the same money.
I for one don't like to even entertain the idea of getting anyone to do "performance" work on something that is not feasible from an engineering perspective but hey you can dig a hole with an escalator or you can dig a hole with a toothpick. Whatever floats you boat
Matt, that remark wasn't launched at you

Learn from it and build it up again.
 
love the honesty mate too can be hard to admit a times

Learn from it and build it up again.
 
love the honesty mate too can be hard to admit a times

That sucks mate but yeah props for admitting your error and not blaming everyone else possible. I can understand you being keen to give it a thrashing, I’d be exactly the same. I hope you have a positive outcome

It’s looking fucking tough

Does it look like Jessica Gomes?
 
Just to break the ice a bit.

Does it look like Jessica Gomes?
 
Just to break the ice a bit.

Does it look like Jessica Gomes?
 
Just to break the ice a bit.

Does it look like Jessica Gomes?
 
Just to break the ice a bit.

Hey crossflow lovers (esp ando and rob)
What Arp bolts are good for heads and mains?  Heard it was holden items from previous searches but just want to confirm what both you guys have used.
Cheers
 
Dave

could always install it sideways and adapt the clamp to suit....  if the oil feed is still an issue.

could always install it sideways and adapt the clamp to suit....  if the oil feed is still an issue.

yeah there is just want to see if anyone on here has a preference.

Just on this, there are several pins on the ford ecU, from memory pin 20, 40 and 60.  These are required to be the signal earths for the sensors shown above.  The case is earthed back to the body.  They're easy to spot.  They're black.
This is important as the 5V reference is taken from the cu, and this is you earth to somewhere else you may get residual current which will play havoc with it.
Jacks picture is correct, make sure the 12V starter is just that not constant 12V - your timing won't advance otherwise.  This locks the starting timing to base timing (0 degrees for an el ecU and +10 for others)
 
Also the +5v on your black wire, it should be 0v is your earthing against the body.  

I'm a fan of that