MatthewXD302c

Thanks for all the advice fellas! 

Some real good advice here guys. Money doesn’t travel far.


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all you need is the bigger crank and use your rods with the short piston and there is your extra power right there

4k is a waste purely on hop-ups for a 302. That said, you can spend up on them now if you plan go to 351 later.

I'm not one of those folks who straight away says "302s are dogs, don't bother, etc" because I have one in my wagon. My reasoning was that it was cheap, already rebuilt engine, and it could go in front of a 6-cyl driveline. I run a 6-cyl T5 in mine.

It all depends on what you're doing to it. If you're rebuilding, 4k will be soaked up very quickly in machining and new engine parts, etc.

If your current engine is healthy, money is best spent on the top-end. Get the heads done up with upgraded valve springs, hardened seats, 3-angle valve job, press-on stem seals, shave to get up to 10:1 comp, tidy up the ports to take out dags and ridges. Not including the ports, which I did myself, this whole job cost me about $1400 with parts. Have a look in my thread (gergwagon revamp) to see what I did to my ports.

Don't waste money on an inlet manifold. The only advantage would be weight. The standard iron 4-barrel clevo one is good unit, and would be more than adequate on a 302. The only consideration would be if you have the choked-down (funnel) one that came with the 302, the earlier 4-hole one or the one with 2 open plenums. The last one is most desirable. Mine was the choked one but my brother machined it out to open.

The bottom end, if in good order, will handle decent rpm stock. The short-stroke 302 will sit on 6500 rpm all day, and clevo rods are so beefy that you don't even need to think about them.

3500 stall is pretty high for a street car, might get a bit annoying on the freeway. I'd say go more like 2500, or keep it stock. I assume you're using a C4, in which case you should shift kit it to help it live longer and drive nicer.

Diff should be 28-spline limo. Mine will only be 25 as it's a cruiser and I don't drag race or do burnouts. Plenty of diff gears available to wake it up: 3.27, 3.45, 3.77, 4.11 which is the reason why I advise not to go too high in the stall speed. Depends if you can build your own diff. If not, bolting in a XG ute diff would give you 3.27 but probably open centre. Going up in ratio plus too high a stall would make it unbearable on the freeway. High stall will also cook your gearbox if you run it hard.

Camshafts are chosen on rpm range, so keep in mind that when you're choosing a clevo one, they're quoting the power band on a 351. In a 302, a good rule-of-thumb is to add 500 rpm to that figure. On an auto, you could go with an LSA a bit narrower, say 110-108 so you're in the meat of the torque curve when coming off stall. Choose a cam that's not too much above 0.500" lift as you don't want to stress the rockers too much. I know of a Crow cam that's around 224/224 @ 0.050", 108 LSA, and 0.507" lift that would be a good little cam for your setup.

If you want to use roller rockers, get good ones. Cheapies are worse than using stock rockers. Think about if you want to go with 7/16" studs when getting the heads machined. Clevos aren't cheap to do because of the angles involved. There are bolt-on 5/16" ones from Scorpion or Yella Terra for around $600. You'll probably need pushrods too.

If you keep the stock rockers, run a high zinc oil or moly additive.

Try and find a second hand set of extractors, as new ones are pricey. Mine were $150, new ones are up around $800.

A 600 Holley should do you for carby. 465 will be too small. Reco ones are getting hard to find as carby shops are all closing down now. New ones are pricey too. Allow $500 for that.

So... Budget:

Heads $1500
Cam/lifters $500
Roller rockers/pushrods $700 (optional)
Extractors $800 ($200 s/hand)
Carby $500
Diff rebuild $1000
Shift kit $200 (?)

It's all starting to add up!

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Awesome post. Looking at buying one my self.

Hey guys, i just spotted this on Gumtree, the guy has approx 20 pairs of closed & open chamber 2V heads for sale if anyone on here are chasing a pair ($60ea) - (or a lot).
 
This is not my ad, i am merely letting others know they are there.
 
http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/romsey/wrecking/ford-40-351-302-cleveland-cylinder-heads-bulk-fit-xw-xy-xa-xb-xc/1109924987

Ok so anyone who knows me would know that I can't settle for anything without fucking with it so I tried a few different approaches to get it dialled in:
 
Leanest jet (74) with 52/60 rod still had the consumption up around 17l/100, and lacked a little something under power. Then to improve economy, I went to the leanest rod (56/64) had it running ok but obviously more lacking power. Cruise was pretty fine, only had a little surge now and then.
 
So I figured that it really needs the lean step of the second-leanest rod but the rich step of the second richest one, along with the leanest jet.
 
Enter my trusty Ozito "dremel" tool with sanding pad attachment. It was one of those nights that I had the kids asleep at home so I had plenty of time to kill. Using my fingers like a lathe, I rotated the rod against the wheel taking minute amounts off the end, measuring regularly with some verniers, getting down to 0.045" at the tip (down from 0.054") also introducing a gentle taper down to it from where the lean step started much like a rod on a bike carby.
 
.... And finally some success!
 
On the primaries, power is smooth and effortless, just as it originally was with the factory (rich) setup but even better. It cruises beautifully and it transitions perfectly from cruise to power. Before you could feel the rich step coming in, much like a power valve.
 
Secondaries needed some richening due to the smaller engine capacity than the carby was designed for, (350 cubes) starting with the standard 80s, moving up to 82s, then jumping right up to a drilled 89 (I had no drills in between that and 82). It pulls quite well from low rpm foot to the floor, but it's best not to nail it before 3000. The air door preload is now set at the factory 1 turn after contact. Initially, with the smaller jets it needed another 1.5 turns to get the bog out if it.
 
The accelerator pump is a whole new chapter that I'll go on about some other time.
 
So in summary, it's a brilliant design of a carby with plenty of potential. The tune of it however hasn't had much homework done by the manufacturer to get the most out of it. The fact that I had to buy a tuneup kit and then modify the rods even further to get where I needed to be shows that their approach is a bit crude and never has the right combination of tuning parameters to take advantage of the efforts they made to design the carby in the first place.
 
So to recap, my Holley 4011 performed well but drank way too much. I was often getting towards 20l/100km. When I first bolted on the Street Demon, I was immediately impressed with the performance but not with the economy. It showed little to no improvement over the old clunker I just pulled off and took a lot of trial and error to get it to where it is now. I'm hovering around 15l/100km with some runs dipping into high 14s. This translates to about 400km to a tank, but being a wagon it's hard to be accurate with such a wide and flat tank. It's very sensitive to what slope you have the car on so you can think you've filled it but it still has a few more litres left in it after the gun has clicked off.

Bitches
 

 
Oh 4011 Holley... You've served me well but sadly now it's time to be put out to pasture.
 

 
You can see the unusual goggle-shaped secondaries:
 

 
Square vs spreadbore gasket
 

 

 
As you can see, the siamesed secondary valve, while very cool, can be a bit of a headache when trying to match the carby to a spread/square adaptor. The centre divider has an abrupt face that's smack in the middle of the flow so needs to be contoured with a die grinder to transition smoothly to the spreadbore manifold:
 

 
Smoothed and knife-edged:
 

 

 
A bit hard to see but looking straight down the open throttle into the plenum there's the contoured divider. If anyone is thinking of getting this carby, this is the sort of thing you might have to do to get it right on a split manifold, square or spread bore. Open plenums are no dramas.
 

Another angle: I have a Street Demon 625 on my 302 and I can vouch for is advantages over other Holley-style carbys.
 
A modern revamp of the ThermoQuad, it has small primaries and big secondaries like a spreadbore but uses a squarebore bolt pattern.
 
They have great throttle response and mid-range, nice howl when the secondaries open, and very easy installation. They're Ford kickdown compatible, compensates on smaller engines by limiting how far the secondary valve opens, single fuel line (simple), available in a composite body to stop fuel boiling on hot days (big problem with metal carbys) and price is pretty good. They're actually owned by Holley anyway.
 
Not flying the flag for them per se and I know the good old 4150 type Holley is tried and true, but quite a lot of tuning knowledge is needed to get them to run well. I believe these Street Demons are the best bolt-on and go carby on a mild street engine, which is right down your alley.
 
I have a thread that goes into detail about my experience with the 625.
 
http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/6181-Holley-Street-Demon-1901
 
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I'd look at a Quick Fuel Slayer 600 VSF over the holley,
has sight glass in fuel bowl, changeable air bleeds, rear jets, down leg boosters & VSF model has side feed fuel bowl (better fuel supply)
Holley has fixed air bleeds & no rear jets
Is $494.64 at VPW & will need something like a PFEFS2196S fuel rail.
http://vpw.com.au/Category/Index/484196

My brothers 302 was quicker with a 350 holley than my mates 302 with a 4barrel  AFB Carter.. not sure on economy though..

Please dont speak car language to me, still new to the whole car thing.
 
I own a 1981 Ford Fairmont XD Ghia, looking for a new carby for my 302 Clevo. Anyone have any ideas on a good one?

After a hard days work on the Clevo, place your spanners into the household dishwasher - and walla nice clean tools ready for the next session.
 
 
Cheers - Steve

Ive been toying around with the idea of chucking a snail on the ute cause basically its slow as fuck and well it would be a lot more fun to drive.
 
Ive sourced an EL computer to suit the engine as it allows for better tuning with a J3 chip.
 
Im also in the process of getting an AU engine cause ive read the bottom ends are better and it means i can build up the engine while keeping the ute on the road,
 
Now im not interested in a high budget build but i am not likely to do it on the cheap either. Only thing is i have no idea what way to go with a parts list so i asked my learned colleagues to add some advice here to point me in the right direction.
 
I do know there will be some braided line, shiny allloy intercooler piping and the odd aeroflow fitting but other than that who knows - all a learning curve.