slydog

I'm actually going back to a big single for street and mainly to remove weight and make it eaiser to do pipe drop on race day. 
Went for a 3.5" Hooker Aero Chamber and I'll add a Gonzo style race muffler and flange for a turn down so if @ PCM or events that require mufflers I'll still be legit but I can remove the the rear of the exhaust for weight saving and no real loss of power. 
 

Yeah it didn't work on mine.Killed regs every 6-12mths. Even tried a equivalent Magna fuel pump and it suffered stammer and as said before due to the pressure drop needed for the induction on the car I believe. But the current Aeromotive pump and combo of regs got it sorted and has been as such ever since. 
Yes it cost more in the end cos I had to basically replace the system and try various pumps where If I fitted the Aeromotive and combo of regs to start with I would of saved money LOL. Arrrrgggggggh.
 

No...Return reg is firewall mounted in the bay and BEFORE cut reg.Has return off 1 port and feeds dead head/cut reg. Dead head reg then has a fuel log off it and 3x -6 feeds to carburetors. By this stage the fuel has only has to travel maybe 500mm from cut reg to carbs.
Yes it takes 2 regs to make this work which cost money but it's also is more reliable in my application and needed due the amount of pressure drop I need while retaining volume of fuel.You can do it other ways im sure but this way has worked and did Drag Challenge,Summernats,PCM and Powerfest and so plus many many road km's with zero issues. 

Not special just BBF...block needs clearanceing with a die grinder around 2 and 5 lifters.Takes around 10mins. 
The result is...a bad ass engine that idles like a baby,goe's like a mo fo and requires zero run in period and will out power a flat tappet.
 

Light brown?

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The chamber isn't able to recover from charge opposite the inlet valve is the issue. By putting material back in there Ricky found a 11cfm gain, All the sudden it's a 272cfm cyl head,which is starting to get serious. Plus next time around there will be a gain in port cross sectional area and get more aggressive in the short turn as stated before.
Yes a 1.92 inlet valve will help for sure. You need more CFM cos your staying 4 barrel. If you were ITB or Webers you could be down a little bit but as mine showed the suggested 226cfm (flow testing showed 219 though???) just isn't enough. I had perfect 12.6 AFR's (any higher or lower it lost hp dyno proven) and convertor and gearing. But TBH you still need a whole package not just a strong engine and not enough ignition or or fuel system and stuff. Plus a stick car will not be as fast as a auto on a strip unless it's a liberty or such.
Not saying it's a shit head cos it's not but Wazzy went to the other head for a reason...cos it flowed more. If we all ran around with 2 barrel carbs low cfm numbers would be fine and give what you want but 4 barrels with decent cams and such need more.  

Can I troll?

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Not special just BBF...block needs clearanceing with a die grinder around 2 and 5 lifters.Takes around 10mins. 
The result is...a bad ass engine that idles like a baby,goe's like a mo fo and requires zero run in period and will out power a flat tappet.
 

Not special just BBF...block needs clearanceing with a die grinder around 2 and 5 lifters.Takes around 10mins. 
The result is...a bad ass engine that idles like a baby,goe's like a mo fo and requires zero run in period and will out power a flat tappet.
 

Not special just BBF...block needs clearanceing with a die grinder around 2 and 5 lifters.Takes around 10mins. 
The result is...a bad ass engine that idles like a baby,goe's like a mo fo and requires zero run in period and will out power a flat tappet.
 

Sounds like rollers are less fuckin hassle

A mechanical flt tappet requires...rocker cover just sitting on the engine with paint dots on the pushrods to see if there spinning,engine oil pump primed with oil coming out the pushrods,I actually pre-heat the oil even,outer valve springs only,no inners or dampers to be used at this time,use a quality run in oil like Joe Gibbs which has heaps of zinc and shit in it,have a mate with you on stand by,make sure there's petrol in the carb and spark from the ignition,timing light in hand and spanner to set dizzy as soon as it starts to get timing on point,I also have a large water jug or better yet the garden hose there and running to help cool of rad or top up if needed and in case of well fire. Extinguisher on hand is good too.   
Start the engine get it up to RPM check timing,set timing,check all pushrods are turning and oil is coming out the pushrods and there's no fuel/oil leaks.Small water leaks and stuff are not a problem here.Once that all checks out bolt rocker cover down and do your rpm changes for 20mins. Soon as it's done check and gap valve lash if needed,fix what ever is loose or wrong and check oil condition? If OK take it for a drive and dont take rpm over 3000rpm. Drive it like this for about a week then give it a fresh oil change and fit the inner springs aswell.At this point you can finally start it and via your paint dots confirm your pushrods are still turning.If all good and lash is still good give it say a 500kms or till the oil changes colour and give it another oil change then it's ready for you to be a lazy non caring car owner again. And don't be scared to put some spring on em.I know you will be told too much spring is bad but so is too little and often alot of harmonic issues and broken springs come from too soft springs.PSI springs have lots of good reading and Jason Murphy did a seminar with them and was surprised how much spring they told people to use and the difference it made ti engines.
Thats how I ran if flat tappets.Expensive timley and a pain but it's what you have to do with them if you want em to last.  
    

A mechanical flt tappet requires...rocker cover just sitting on the engine with paint dots on the pushrods to see if there spinning,engine oil pump primed with oil coming out the pushrods,I actually pre-heat the oil even,outer valve springs only,no inners or dampers to be used at this time,use a quality run in oil like Joe Gibbs which has heaps of zinc and shit in it,have a mate with you on stand by,make sure there's petrol in the carb and spark from the ignition,timing light in hand and spanner to set dizzy as soon as it starts to get timing on point,I also have a large water jug or better yet the garden hose there and running to help cool of rad or top up if needed and in case of well fire. Extinguisher on hand is good too.   
Start the engine get it up to RPM check timing,set timing,check all pushrods are turning and oil is coming out the pushrods and there's no fuel/oil leaks.Small water leaks and stuff are not a problem here.Once that all checks out bolt rocker cover down and do your rpm changes for 20mins. Soon as it's done check and gap valve lash if needed,fix what ever is loose or wrong and check oil condition? If OK take it for a drive and dont take rpm over 3000rpm. Drive it like this for about a week then give it a fresh oil change and fit the inner springs aswell.At this point you can finally start it and via your paint dots confirm your pushrods are still turning.If all good and lash is still good give it say a 500kms or till the oil changes colour and give it another oil change then it's ready for you to be a lazy non caring car owner again. And don't be scared to put some spring on em.I know you will be told too much spring is bad but so is too little and often alot of harmonic issues and broken springs come from too soft springs.PSI springs have lots of good reading and Jason Murphy did a seminar with them and was surprised how much spring they told people to use and the difference it made ti engines.
Thats how I ran if flat tappets.Expensive timley and a pain but it's what you have to do with them if you want em to last.  
    

A mechanical flt tappet requires...rocker cover just sitting on the engine with paint dots on the pushrods to see if there spinning,engine oil pump primed with oil coming out the pushrods,I actually pre-heat the oil even,outer valve springs only,no inners or dampers to be used at this time,use a quality run in oil like Joe Gibbs which has heaps of zinc and shit in it,have a mate with you on stand by,make sure there's petrol in the carb and spark from the ignition,timing light in hand and spanner to set dizzy as soon as it starts to get timing on point,I also have a large water jug or better yet the garden hose there and running to help cool of rad or top up if needed and in case of well fire. Extinguisher on hand is good too.   
Start the engine get it up to RPM check timing,set timing,check all pushrods are turning and oil is coming out the pushrods and there's no fuel/oil leaks.Small water leaks and stuff are not a problem here.Once that all checks out bolt rocker cover down and do your rpm changes for 20mins. Soon as it's done check and gap valve lash if needed,fix what ever is loose or wrong and check oil condition? If OK take it for a drive and dont take rpm over 3000rpm. Drive it like this for about a week then give it a fresh oil change and fit the inner springs aswell.At this point you can finally start it and via your paint dots confirm your pushrods are still turning.If all good and lash is still good give it say a 500kms or till the oil changes colour and give it another oil change then it's ready for you to be a lazy non caring car owner again. And don't be scared to put some spring on em.I know you will be told too much spring is bad but so is too little and often alot of harmonic issues and broken springs come from too soft springs.PSI springs have lots of good reading and Jason Murphy did a seminar with them and was surprised how much spring they told people to use and the difference it made ti engines.
Thats how I ran if flat tappets.Expensive timley and a pain but it's what you have to do with them if you want em to last.  
    

Yeah I can run with that

Solid roller is lean in the window hit the key. Then load it on the trailer and go race it lol.
Well thats what I did anyway

Solid roller is lean in the window hit the key. Then load it on the trailer and go race it lol.
Well thats what I did anyway

Solid roller is lean in the window hit the key. Then load it on the trailer and go race it lol.
Well thats what I did anyway

No you won't. Your set in the low comp now,it's in your words. Fluted lifters...ummmmm I don't know but suggest there the same as EDM with a hole on the face to lubricate the camshaft and lifter. What I did find is that it's very very very critical to get run in procedure correct or you will wreak the cam shaft on start up. Long drawn out process that not many do correctly.  
Chamber is rather open in mine hence the lack of outright flow but the head has been decked and has chambers that are resistant to hot spots and detonation.
  
Yes regardless of what the combo is they need cyl heads to work.This head is not ideal but works because Ricky Naughton of LHT Race Engines did a killer job with what he had to work with and it has shown the numbers.Can't recommend his work enough TBH.   

No you won't. Your set in the low comp now,it's in your words. Fluted lifters...ummmmm I don't know but suggest there the same as EDM with a hole on the face to lubricate the camshaft and lifter. What I did find is that it's very very very critical to get run in procedure correct or you will wreak the cam shaft on start up. Long drawn out process that not many do correctly.  
Chamber is rather open in mine hence the lack of outright flow but the head has been decked and has chambers that are resistant to hot spots and detonation.
  
Yes regardless of what the combo is they need cyl heads to work.This head is not ideal but works because Ricky Naughton of LHT Race Engines did a killer job with what he had to work with and it has shown the numbers.Can't recommend his work enough TBH.   

4:11's 5000 convertor 3x50mm webbers over 1600kg's and still got 11mpg on Drag Challenge.
Yeah 4:11's are too much. 

11.7 on 98 is fine with that cam. I run 13- 1 on 98 in mine and it's fine. I know many cry about it and say it's not possible but they also havn't done it so wouldn't know.  
I'd go flat tops 11.7 and that cam if it's still possible but more critical is that they dial the camshaft in because it "will be out". Tighe are hope less with this and if it is just installed dot to dot valves and pistons can make out at worst or terrible running no power @ best. 
Hate to be negative but dialling the camshaft in is "that" important. Having to use there cams as a base to be ground by Phill Duggan of Surecam for a suitable profile but pin placement is done @ Tighe before hand and always wrong.

4:11's 5000 convertor 3x50mm webbers over 1600kg's and still got 11mpg on Drag Challenge.
Yeah 4:11's are too much. 

11.7 on 98 is fine with that cam. I run 13- 1 on 98 in mine and it's fine. I know many cry about it and say it's not possible but they also havn't done it so wouldn't know.  
I'd go flat tops 11.7 and that cam if it's still possible but more critical is that they dial the camshaft in because it "will be out". Tighe are hope less with this and if it is just installed dot to dot valves and pistons can make out at worst or terrible running no power @ best. 
Hate to be negative but dialling the camshaft in is "that" important. Having to use there cams as a base to be ground by Phill Duggan of Surecam for a suitable profile but pin placement is done @ Tighe before hand and always wrong.

The chamber isn't able to recover from charge opposite the inlet valve is the issue. By putting material back in there Ricky found a 11cfm gain, All the sudden it's a 272cfm cyl head,which is starting to get serious. Plus next time around there will be a gain in port cross sectional area and get more aggressive in the short turn as stated before.
Yes a 1.92 inlet valve will help for sure. You need more CFM cos your staying 4 barrel. If you were ITB or Webers you could be down a little bit but as mine showed the suggested 226cfm (flow testing showed 219 though???) just isn't enough. I had perfect 12.6 AFR's (any higher or lower it lost hp dyno proven) and convertor and gearing. But TBH you still need a whole package not just a strong engine and not enough ignition or or fuel system and stuff. Plus a stick car will not be as fast as a auto on a strip unless it's a liberty or such.
Not saying it's a shit head cos it's not but Wazzy went to the other head for a reason...cos it flowed more. If we all ran around with 2 barrel carbs low cfm numbers would be fine and give what you want but 4 barrels with decent cams and such need more.