SirkWhyXF

Yep, very period looking, I dig them, like early BBS. They aren't Hotwires though, they were one-piece cast and machined face.

If your referring to these ones http://www.ebay.com.au/ulk/itm/221827184399 then my thoughts are a big thumbs up, I'd love a set.

http://www.canterburytyres.com.au/bathurst-globe-style.html
 
http://www.performancewheels.com.au/Home/Wheels.asp?theGroup=C&Cat=Classic

We all like different shit, i know, but i have to disagree
 

 
Greens tuf is about the tuffest looking car ever as as far as i'm concerned.

Here's the real thing.
 


 
Not to everyone's taste, I know. But look damn good to me.

Here's the real thing.
 


 
Not to everyone's taste, I know. But look damn good to me.

We all like different shit, i know, but i have to disagree
 

 
Greens tuf is about the tuffest looking car ever as as far as i'm concerned.

Yeah price is too much to be really appealing, just exited cause I've been dreaming about these for years.

Not everyone's a visionary.......
 
 
 
Agreed, but they wouldn't be a cheap exercise to have made, gotta judge the market and start somewhere.

Time to brighten this thread up a bit
 

 

 

 

 

Ahh who cares what you think anyway! 
 
Lol at that image btw

There is definitely gains to be had. My mates 66 mustang could only cop a 245 to 255 on a 17x8 custom offset wheel and the diff cut down to fine tune to the last mm to get them under. The original tubs were also spliced and modified in one section also to try and gain a bit more clearance . When we first done the paint and panel he talked himself out of doing it then regretted it after eventually cracking and then we had to chop up a very shiny and pretty mustang to give it the look he had wanted all along. We split the tub added a 40ish mm strip down the centre and went flat to the rail. It now takes a 285 on a 19" wheel with ease. If you do it neatly with precise cuts so your not trying to fill big ass gaps with welds that end up looking like shit, seal it all up nice and use some common sense about how to retain the strength of the rail it is definitely worth while.   

I ended up putting $150 on it (negotiable)
 
I think that's a reasonable price. 

Also nice sig

We all like different shit, i know, but i have to disagree
 

 
Greens tuf is about the tuffest looking car ever as as far as i'm concerned.

I paid $200 for a guy to rebuild the carby on an Econo van I had years ago. (I shouldn't say had, I still have it, been functioning as a shed for set of wheels and lawn mowing gear for the last few years though)

We all like different shit, i know, but i have to disagree
 

 
Greens tuf is about the tuffest looking car ever as as far as i'm concerned.

Please, please, please save up and buy the gold centred wheels in the picture.  They are just so horn.  The minilites actually look tough on xy thru to XC I reckon - after that - yeah not so. 
 
Greens tuff had a similar wheel to those Gold centred ones.  Oh they would look so so good.  Wait and save for them bud.  You wont regret it. 
 
Remember - Wheels and stance make the car.....

Going to have to say it in public but I am really not a fan of that design of wheel. Just something about them that doesn't float my boat. Reminds me of the old dragway 4 and 5 spoke wheels that were all round in the spoke, never liked them either.
Found a pic of the 5 spoke dragway mags. I know it's not exactly the same as the link above but it just doesn't do anything for me

 

Me too

Those are a great looking wheel, must be a few companies making them again. They come in 17x10 as well in a 0 offset.
 

For my mechanic to rebuild my calipers, buy and fit the rotors, new pads and new front wheel bearings was around $450/$500, so the rotors can't be too expensive.
 
If I find my original bill it will list how much the rotors were.

Yep standard rebuild of standard calipers. Those T2 rotors can be had from a few places, just shop around for a good price. As for the QFM pads these guys sell them http://www.brakesdirect.com.au/Qfm
They have an ebay store as well as through their website. They also sell the T2 rotor and superpro bushes as well.

I have cheapo Ultima short stroke big bore in my ute, lowered 2.5" and it's been coping pretty well since I put them in (replaced the factory fronts).
Rear of the ute has Repco ones in it - just replaced some Gabriels that were in there when I bought it.
 
Wagon has Pedders shocks in the front, very comfy ride.
Rear of it still has factory air/pump up shocks from old old Ghia that had them optioned with the tow pack.

Yeah agree with Thom, I don't know of a wilwood setup that is ADR compliant. So any brake upgrade using bigger discs is probably just as good. Keep in mind people doing circuit racing use a standard good condition girlock caliper with a grooved disc and good brake fluid is enough that they don't see brake fade. If this setup is good enough to pull up a clevo powered x series on the track it would be plenty for other application