VDO

You need to test the speedo transducer (sender) that attaches to the speedo drive on the gearbox.
 
Sounds like that might be the problem.
 
Can you have a look at the three wires that run off the transducer and tell me whay colours they are and I can tell you how to test it.
 
But you'll have to remove the transducer from the box to (bench) test it.
 
Where are you located..?

Pinging is also often a sign of a blown head gasket, due to coolant leaking into the combustion chambers... hence the rise in engine temp.

If your inclined to, you can send me the gauge and I can sort it out for you, free.
 
Thing is, I'm in Queensland and it would probably have to be posted to me and back again.
 
Anyway, the offer's there if you want.

If your inclined to, you can send me the gauge and I can sort it out for you, free.
 
Thing is, I'm in Queensland and it would probably have to be posted to me and back again.
 
Anyway, the offer's there if you want.

If your inclined to, you can send me the gauge and I can sort it out for you, free.
 
Thing is, I'm in Queensland and it would probably have to be posted to me and back again.
 
Anyway, the offer's there if you want.

If your inclined to, you can send me the gauge and I can sort it out for you, free.
 
Thing is, I'm in Queensland and it would probably have to be posted to me and back again.
 
Anyway, the offer's there if you want.

If your inclined to, you can send me the gauge and I can sort it out for you, free.
 
Thing is, I'm in Queensland and it would probably have to be posted to me and back again.
 
Anyway, the offer's there if you want.

That "prong" is the connector probe for the gauge and is meant to be in place in the back of the gauge in the hole where one is missing.  The temp gauge needs both of them to work.
 
What's happened is common.  The solder that holds the probe into the gauge's small circuit board has weakened and when the gauge was pulled from the main circuit board, the pin/probe/prong stayed behind.
 
You need to remove the probe fom the board (should just pull off) and resolder it back into the gauge.  This will requre removal of the dial and insert the probe and while holding slight pressure to it, heat the solder connection on the surface of the gauge's small circuit board, so that it slips in further when the solder melts.  Make sure it's in firmly and also check the opposite probe solder connection on the other side of the same gauge.
 
Note:  Note the orientation of the gauge with it's dial before you remove the dial, so you don't put it back on upside down.
 
Very common problem with XD XE gauges.
 
Let me know if you need more help.

It's probably not the switch.
 
Sounds like the fan speed resistor pack is blown... pretty common.
 
It's located in the heater box, 3 wires attached and I think one screw holds it in.
 
Take out the glove box and you will see it.

It's probably not the switch.
 
Sounds like the fan speed resistor pack is blown... pretty common.
 
It's located in the heater box, 3 wires attached and I think one screw holds it in.
 
Take out the glove box and you will see it.

I once had this problem.
 
I got the pinstriping bloke to apply wide heavy grade flat black vinyl to the inside face of the bar.
 
Never faded, never peeled and looked great.

Yes, simple enough to do.
 
Check the little steel shaft that holds the new gear, the plastic at the bottom tends to split a little at the base and any vigourous action will usually result in it breaking off. 
 
If there's a crack, get the soldering iron with a fine tip and very carefully melt over some of the surrounding plastic into the crack to strengthen it up, but be gentle or it will get messed up. 
 
Also, just melt it only onto the back part of the plastic holding the pin, or the new gear won't sit properly, and try not to heat up the steel pin or it will lean over.

I don't believe you can get them anywhere Dave.
 
Yes, same gear and odometer arrangement for some early Porsche and Rolls Royce.
 
VDO don't supply them anymore, so even VDO agents are forced to use the hard plastic ones.
 
The only reason VDO used the soft ones in the first place was to make the gear operation quieter, but to be honest the hard plastic ones are fine, in that i've never had a customer complain about gear noise, because it's so minimal even on the bench, that you would be hard pressed to hear it in a moving car.
 
The slightly loose fit of the hard plastic gear for XD XE isn't really a problem in my opinion, as the rotation is only in one direction, so the play never really comes into it.
 
All the gears I have for XF are hard plastic also.
 
All we can do is go with what we have available to us.
 
I could tell you some scary stories about what some odometers are built like from the factory, but that's for another time..

The FC LTD cluster you have, won't work in your Falcon.
 
The FC FD LTD and ZJ ZK Fairlanes have different pin configuration in the back (and different circuit board), due to the warning lights being on the side binnacle on the LTD Fairlane, where as on the Falcon, the warning lights are in the cluster around the gauges. 
 
Check the LTD cluster and you'll see that the warning light sections are all blanked out, except for the Hi Beam light.
 
Also look at the back and compare the pins to what you have on your S pack cluster and you'll see what I'm talking about.
 
The best and simplest way would be for you to get your original S Pack cluster and have the Tacho re-calibrated.
 
Too bad you're not in Brisbane, I would do it for you for free, but there should be an Instrument shop near you.  You can even ask them for a price over the phone, as it's a very common job.  Takes about 15 minutes if they have the right equipment.
 
Don't try doing it yourself.  You need special equipment or it will be messed up.

The FC LTD cluster you have, won't work in your Falcon.
 
The FC FD LTD and ZJ ZK Fairlanes have different pin configuration in the back (and different circuit board), due to the warning lights being on the side binnacle on the LTD Fairlane, where as on the Falcon, the warning lights are in the cluster around the gauges. 
 
Check the LTD cluster and you'll see that the warning light sections are all blanked out, except for the Hi Beam light.
 
Also look at the back and compare the pins to what you have on your S pack cluster and you'll see what I'm talking about.
 
The best and simplest way would be for you to get your original S Pack cluster and have the Tacho re-calibrated.
 
Too bad you're not in Brisbane, I would do it for you for free, but there should be an Instrument shop near you.  You can even ask them for a price over the phone, as it's a very common job.  Takes about 15 minutes if they have the right equipment.
 
Don't try doing it yourself.  You need special equipment or it will be messed up.

The FC LTD cluster you have, won't work in your Falcon.
 
The FC FD LTD and ZJ ZK Fairlanes have different pin configuration in the back (and different circuit board), due to the warning lights being on the side binnacle on the LTD Fairlane, where as on the Falcon, the warning lights are in the cluster around the gauges. 
 
Check the LTD cluster and you'll see that the warning light sections are all blanked out, except for the Hi Beam light.
 
Also look at the back and compare the pins to what you have on your S pack cluster and you'll see what I'm talking about.
 
The best and simplest way would be for you to get your original S Pack cluster and have the Tacho re-calibrated.
 
Too bad you're not in Brisbane, I would do it for you for free, but there should be an Instrument shop near you.  You can even ask them for a price over the phone, as it's a very common job.  Takes about 15 minutes if they have the right equipment.
 
Don't try doing it yourself.  You need special equipment or it will be messed up.

They're the same.
 
The "stuffed" one is an XE part number and the one you got from a mate is an XD part number.
 
Both XD and XE senders are the same and have the same parameters, except for EFI cars.
 
The link above from agentkiwi is worthwhile... I would try to clean the original one up first, it usually fixes them.