Temp Gauge Woes

[Nath 1,975]

Alluded to this in a couple of different threads, but here goes:

 

Got a Sport Dash for my XD and everything works/went in fine except the temp gauge. Damn thing is dead, won't even flick to life when the key is turned let alone get a reading. Thought a resistor was rooted (black marks on the board, and was loose at the soldering), so I replaced it. Still dead.

 

I have 3 dashes here (only one sport one), and the one I want to use seems to have a different type of plug on the circuit board for where the temp gauge fits on than the other do.

 

This is the one I need to use - notice the prong sticking up on the bottom of the nipple thing (hehe nipple).

 

 

Neither of those other dashes have that (one from a ZK Fairlane and one from my XD). They look like this instead (two metal pieces, no prong).

 

 

 

Here's where it gets weird - Both other temp gauges have a coil where the metal nipple thing plugs on.

 

 

But the gauge I need to use doesn't - it's missing the bottom one (where the prong seems to go).

 

 

 

My guess would be that at some point the coil came out, and instead of putting a new one in someone has put the prong on the circuitboard so it pokes in further and completes the circuit. Problem is, it doesn't work, and I'm thinking it may be what stuffed the last resistor.

 

I'm pretty stuck here, anyone have any ideas how I can fix this?

[Outback Jack 6,352]

That instrument cluster has been screwed with a lot mate, all soldering is fresh and was too hot when applied. Maybe it's better to get another cluster, one in better nick. S pac and GL (base versions) should be direct plug and play. That sleeve thing seems to be missing, it should be there.

Could of been arcing out or lifting the ground, that would blow ya resistor.

 

Jack.

[Nath 1,975]

That instrument cluster has been screwed with a lot mate, all soldering is fresh and was too hot when applied. Maybe it's better to get another cluster, one in better nick. S pac and GL (base versions) should be direct plug and play. That sleeve thing seems to be missing, it should be there.

Sure ya temp sender isn't dead?

 

Jack.

Was hoping to avoid that, but maybe you're right. Everything else works fine though, so if I can get the temp gauge working we're golden. It's not the temp sender (tried the other dash and it works fine), the circuit is broken somewhere as the actual needle will not flick to life like the others when you turn the key.

 

I'm sure it must be the sleeve thing, not sure how I'm going to fix it though. Can't rip one out of the old gauge (tried, won't budge somethings holding it on), and even if I did I imagine it'd be 50x the hassle trying to get the damn thing secured in there.

 

Need to find a workaround solution.

 

Hoping the god of electricity (Dave!) might have a tricky solution.

[VDO 124]

That "prong" is the connector probe for the gauge and is meant to be in place in the back of the gauge in the hole where one is missing.  The temp gauge needs both of them to work.

 

What's happened is common.  The solder that holds the probe into the gauge's small circuit board has weakened and when the gauge was pulled from the main circuit board, the pin/probe/prong stayed behind.

 

You need to remove the probe fom the board (should just pull off) and resolder it back into the gauge.  This will requre removal of the dial and insert the probe and while holding slight pressure to it, heat the solder connection on the surface of the gauge's small circuit board, so that it slips in further when the solder melts.  Make sure it's in firmly and also check the opposite probe solder connection on the other side of the same gauge.

 

Note:  Note the orientation of the gauge with it's dial before you remove the dial, so you don't put it back on upside down.

 

Very common problem with XD XE gauges.

 

Let me know if you need more help.

[Nath 1,975]

That "prong" is the connector probe for the gauge and is meant to be in place in the back of the gauge in the hole where one is missing.  The temp gauge needs both of them to work.

 

What's happened is common.  The solder that holds the probe into the gauge's small circuit board has weakened and when the gauge was pulled from the main circuit board, the pin/probe/prong stayed behind.

 

You need to remove the probe fom the board (should just pull off) and resolder it back into the gauge.  This will requre removal of the dial and insert the probe and while holding slight pressure to it, heat the solder connection on the surface of the gauge's small circuit board, so that it slips in further when the solder melts.  Make sure it's in firmly and also check the opposite probe solder connection on the other side of the same gauge.

 

Note:  Note the orientation of the gauge with it's dial before you remove the dial, so you don't put it back on upside down.

 

Very common problem with XD XE gauges.

 

Let me know if you need more help.

 

Putin approves.

 

I'll try that now.

[Nath 1,975]

That "prong" is the connector probe for the gauge and is meant to be in place in the back of the gauge in the hole where one is missing.  The temp gauge needs both of them to work.

 

What's happened is common.  The solder that holds the probe into the gauge's small circuit board has weakened and when the gauge was pulled from the main circuit board, the pin/probe/prong stayed behind.

 

You need to remove the probe fom the board (should just pull off) and resolder it back into the gauge.  This will requre removal of the dial and insert the probe and while holding slight pressure to it, heat the solder connection on the surface of the gauge's small circuit board, so that it slips in further when the solder melts.  Make sure it's in firmly and also check the opposite probe solder connection on the other side of the same gauge.

 

Note:  Note the orientation of the gauge with it's dial before you remove the dial, so you don't put it back on upside down.

 

Very common problem with XD XE gauges.

 

Let me know if you need more help.

 

 

You sir, win the internet.

 

Despite the fact I'm absolutely woeful at soldering, the fact that it looks dodgy as hell, and the fact I did in fact put it on upside down, it works.

[Nath 1,975]

Or maybe it's not upside down... Seems the right way but the needle flicks much farther than it's meant to (goes from the stopper below zero almost to the end when i turn the ignition). Is it the needle or the motor I need to adjust?

 

Edit: Aaaaand after fiddling with it it's rooted again. Needle won't move at all now.

 

Why the hell can't things just work...

 

Double Edit: Re-soldered the sleeve and it works again.

 

Still the same problem though, needle flicks in the right direction but way too far from where it rests when the ignition is off. Goes from below zero to the end of the gauge. How can I fix this? (Dont want to rip the gauge off too many times or it will break my dodgy soldering again).

 

Triple Edit:

 

Seems to be behaving very temperamentally, when it's attached the needle activates, but sometimes if I tighten the nut on the back or push it a bit further down on the probe then it stops working. Not sure what the go is there... Hopefully it'll be ok if I just leave it in position. Still can't seem to get it right though.

 

Pretty sure this is cursed with black magic. Got it aligned right - sort of (hits the stopper when ignition off, would go further if stopper wasn't there, then flicks to zero when ignition on.

 

But now it doesn't even move at all when the engine heats up (idled for like 15 minutes, heard the thermostat open and it still hasn't budged from zero. Sender unit was working before, maybe it's shit itself finally... Looks alright though.

 

Over it for the day, time to work on something else.

[Nath 1,975]

Anyone got any ideas?

[NZXD 2,328]

Yes, find another cluster with a working gauge. Ford made a good few hundred thousand.

[Outback Jack 6,352]

It's hard to solder those lil connectors on and make them stay, usually they will rebreak everytime you tighten the dial back down anyway.

Wreckers...... 20-30 bucks. Done.

If it still does it, there is a short in the wiring.

And.... have you considered you might be using the wrong temp sender or the fault is intermittant in that?

Also make sure you don't use thread tape on the sender , they use the motor as earth.

I'm pretty much out of ideas after that mate.

 

Jack.

[NZXD 2,328]

I've started to collect items like this and numerous other bits that aren't made, as sure as shit one day I'll need them. Trouble is we are dealing with 35 year old gear.

 

Another option is to take it to a gauge specialist.

[Nath 1,975]

Sender is the original...

 

Ill put the old dash back on and see if it works with that, otherwise yeah, new cluster.

[VDO 124]

If your inclined to, you can send me the gauge and I can sort it out for you, free.

 

Thing is, I'm in Queensland and it would probably have to be posted to me and back again.

 

Anyway, the offer's there if you want.

[NZXD 2,328]

Sounds like an offer I'd take up.

 

Great community of X falconers.

[hendrixhc 10,921]

Pay the postage and get VDO to fix it. Well worth the effort.

 

NIce work VDO your a Champion!

[Nath 1,975]

Legend! I'll send you a pm.

[SLO247 1,713]

Top Bloke.

[Nath 1,975]

Did some more investigating tonight. Hooked the old temp gauge up (upside down and minus the backing plate since it wont fit) and it flicks to life fine, but won't give me a reading (car should have been hot, wouldn't move). This temp gauge was working before I pulled it from the old dash.

 

Played with the sender, when I took the wire off, gauge died, put it back, gauge comes alive. Seems everything is fine, it's just not giving me an accurate temp readout (needle won't move from zero).

 

Not sure what the hell is going on with it.