VDO

Did you disconnect the battery when removing and re-fitting..?

The oil gauge requires three connections to function. Ground to the body/back nut of the gauge. 12v+ Sender feed (resisted ground) If the ground to the body/back nut of the oil gauge isn't present, the oil gauge will deflect to full scale. The fuel and temp won't do this. Therefore, you should closely check the cluster main ground feed. It normally connects to the body in the drivers kick panel area. It's only held with one screw and can become flaky due to corrosion or loosening. Failing that, check and tighten the small slotted nut at the back of the oil gauge.

Get hold of a volt meter and test them. With engine off: Battery should show between 12 and 13 volts. With engine running at idle: Battery should show 13.8 volts With engine running at 2000 rpm: Battery should now show 14.2 volts. If the voltage doesn't change during idle and rev up, then the alternator is shot. If the voltage changes during running, then the alternator is ok, but if the battery still shows low when engine is off, then battery is shot. Next step is take it to a battery shop or Supercheap and have the battery LOAD tested to confirm.

Just give it a soak in some caustic for a day or so. No scrubbing, no nothing. And a super clean result. Simples..!

Probably Monza Red..... XD colour.

Not bad. More appropriate for sure. As long as you don't start white lettering your tyres, you should be fine.

Yes, that SEV Marchal puddy tat is pretty cool. If you turn on the lights with the covers on, the pussy's eyes light up. Love it.

What XD logo..?

I'm gonna be sick

XE. Those Bosch lights are what was fitted to the XE S pack.

No, they're blank. Only the XE ESP had logos on the covers, but those were SEV Marchal lights. It may actually be the case that both Bosch and SEV Marchal could have been fitted to the XE ESP. Someone else might know..?

Lots of speculation here, yet there is clearly a faulty switch. Just replace the switch and go from there...

The trim pot in the speedo is only for very fine calibration, not for correcting an error of 19 Kph. If you try that, then the odometer will register incorrectly. You need to fit the correct gear on the transducer on the gearbox. How many teeth does your current gear have..? You say you are 19 Kph over, then you will need to get a gear that has 4 more teeth than your current one, and you will be a lot closer to correctness then. For example, if your current gear is 15 tooth, then you will need a 19 tooth gear. Ford parts still carry them.

There is no resistor to change. It's a calibration done by adjusting the small trim pot as shown in the pic above. To do it correctly and accurately, it should be done using a sine wave generator, with 12V square wave. If you're in Brisbane, I can do it for you, no charge. Send me a PM.

What model is your car..?

Dealer "FITTED" maybe. I was a Ford manager and I can tell you categorically that the wheels would come from the local tyre/wheel shop. The dealer would take the car down the road to have them done, or the dealer would remove the wheels and the shop would pick up and deliver the wheels with tyres mounted, and nuts to the P.D. workshop and there they would be "fitted". This was done either as a less expensive option at the customer's request, or when the dealer couldn't obtain stock of the original wheels from Ford. Sometimes it was done by the dealer to dress up old stock vehicles, ex demos and slow movers.

Your answer is on the wheel itself - "Performance", which is a brand of aftermarket wheel. Ford wheels didn't have that on them and looked a bit different also. This wheel is no longer available, although Performance wheels still exist, but it most definitely was an aftermarket item, not supplied by Ford. The wheel fitment would have been jobbed out to the local tyre/wheel shop, by the dealer.

Jiggle the fuse in and out a bit. Old fuse box. Corrosion. Did you test the fuse or just look at it..?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FORD-FALCON-TERRITORY-MUSTANG-TOYOTA-BULLITT-MAG-WHEELS-AND-GT-RADIAL-TYRES-/281891463402?hash=item41a20a60ea:g:7mgAAOSw9N1Vyqta

I would certainly not use either of them for racing. If you're serious about safety and performance, get some real racing wheels from OZ, BBS, Simmons, Enkei or similar. These wheels are strictly for show/road use and won't stand up to the rigors of racing and the countless tyre changes that come with serious racing. If you can't afford proper racing wheels, stick with steel rims until you can. The weight advantage isn't that much, and heat transfer won't really be needed unless you're doing 50 laps or more in a single race.

Hmmmmm.

Which round crimp bits are you referring to..?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-XD-XE-Sundowner-Falcon-S-Pack-LH-Exterior-Rear-View-Mirror-Very-CLEAN-Unit-/161823981692?hash=item25ad76007c http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-XD-XE-Sundowner-Falcon-S-Pack-RH-Exterior-Rear-View-Mirror-Very-CLEAN-Unit-/161823985290?hash=item25ad760e8a

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-eb-ed-ef-el-xg-xh-15-alloy-wheels-xr6-fairmont-ute-tickford-/252062363906?hash=item3ab0167102 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-15-x-8-globe-wheels-/201408680304?hash=item2ee4e49170

The F-O-R-D letters are the same as the ones used on the bonnet I believe. The factory manual shows the location and placement, but doesn't give measurements... that's odd. All the wagons had the F-O-R-D badges on the tailgate, so there should be some evidence of where the holes were on the inside.