Stumps

You may find that cam a little bit big for LPG, especially an Impco 225, you might want to step back to a cam around 208 degrees, the lack of vacuum when using that cam with LPG will make the car a bit doughy off the line, I've used it before on LPG setups and found it to be a little underwhelming below 2500 rpm barely better than a stock setup.
 
The 225 will run out of puff before the cam will anyway as they only tend to run out to 4200-4400rpm.
 
Crow has a good dual pattern cam part number 14776 which is 204@50thou IN and 214@50thou EX, LSA 112 degrees, rpm range 1500-4500, while I haven't used this cam personally...Yet, I 've had more than a few blokes who run LPG tell me it works really well with the 225/EFI manifold setup as the rpm range of the cam pretty much matches the maximum flow rate of the 225, and provide excellent low down and mid range torque as well as excellent economy.
 
The Camtech cam you listed is a good cam but it is definitely better suited to petrol setups, I used it on my XC with two different type of LPG setup and it was good out on the highway and had plenty of legs which matched the impco 425 that I was using, but it was hard to live with around town and it was embarrassing having some spikey haired little punk in a corolla smash my XC off a set of lights up to 60 km/h.
 
As for comp ratio aim for 10:1 or slightly higher, that will work well with LPG.

You may find that cam a little bit big for LPG, especially an Impco 225, you might want to step back to a cam around 208 degrees, the lack of vacuum when using that cam with LPG will make the car a bit doughy off the line, I've used it before on LPG setups and found it to be a little underwhelming below 2500 rpm barely better than a stock setup.
 
The 225 will run out of puff before the cam will anyway as they only tend to run out to 4200-4400rpm.
 
Crow has a good dual pattern cam part number 14776 which is 204@50thou IN and 214@50thou EX, LSA 112 degrees, rpm range 1500-4500, while I haven't used this cam personally...Yet, I 've had more than a few blokes who run LPG tell me it works really well with the 225/EFI manifold setup as the rpm range of the cam pretty much matches the maximum flow rate of the 225, and provide excellent low down and mid range torque as well as excellent economy.
 
The Camtech cam you listed is a good cam but it is definitely better suited to petrol setups, I used it on my XC with two different type of LPG setup and it was good out on the highway and had plenty of legs which matched the impco 425 that I was using, but it was hard to live with around town and it was embarrassing having some spikey haired little punk in a corolla smash my XC off a set of lights up to 60 km/h.
 
As for comp ratio aim for 10:1 or slightly higher, that will work well with LPG.

So there you have it... Stumps and Stumper in the same thread

Yeah i'm looking for about 200 bhp from the six in my TE, I've got a reco'd ADM from an XE in shed that I'm gunna fit just to get rid of the holley.
 
I am going to start picking up some four barrel bits so I can stick one on after I get every thing else sorted and the car has rego on it.

I can do you a full bolt on kit for a corty front and rear for about the 2k mark

will not be till after christmas now but

Dave did mine and i have never had a corty stop so good here are some pics


 

 
Wish it still looked like that     

Yeah just screw it on
 
 
Cortina for life

When the kits supplyed id like the stub axles off the front, but most cant be bothered with that so I just tack $100 on the bill and go to the wreckers and get another pair 

When you ready mate im here

 

There, fixed it.

Just to add,
 
As mentioned by Gerg above. the goal is to find a good block, condition wise. pretty hard these days as you will end up boring three blocks until you find a good one. all the others will need sleeves which i personally don't have a problem with even up to  580+hp if done correctly. but its a cost factor (and the correct tune of coarse) 
 
Now the Arrow has had some small minor glitches in past but they are developing,at the end of the day its a much better block to start with and work on than one that is 30+ yo. revised oil system,splayed 4 bolt caps all the way through. provision for dry sump injection for race guys and much better lifter bore configuration which let down the factory blocks 4.100"+ bore  capability for the guys chasing 427+ci
 
In WA you will spend 2k+ to professionally prep a cleveland block for 450+hp and your still stuck with a 30+ yo block. Why would you when an after marked block Arrow is under 3k or a dart shp 9.2 proven quality (windsor clevor style) is around 2k
 
Anyway i could talk Clevelands all day but that's my 2 cents worth as its been fairly quiet in Clevo town of late....
 
Scottly, 450-550hp pump fuel Clevelands are  very easy to build these days with off shelf parts and without using solid roller cams even. maybe start a new thread and we can all have a crack at giving our opinions on how to do it reliably to what ever your budget may be. don't get too strung up on the hp numbers. We just have so many options now days where passionate guys like myself spend all their money they have ever earned on them. Cleveland are just very hard on the back pocket for most but its a Cleveland and its worth it. 

I'm pretty sure that the cheapo Auto one Silver engine enamel is a spot on match for the XD XE rocker covers/ aircleaner.

I'm pretty sure that the cheapo Auto one Silver engine enamel is a spot on match for the XD XE rocker covers/ aircleaner.

you could always just reverse a pair of stock cast manifold and get someone to weld up a flange to suit what ever turbo you are going to use, it would be very easy to do a twin turbo setup like this plumbing would be fairly simply.

you could always just reverse a pair of stock cast manifold and get someone to weld up a flange to suit what ever turbo you are going to use, it would be very easy to do a twin turbo setup like this plumbing would be fairly simply.

^^^^ This
 
If the crank hasn't has an offset grind and hence retains the stock 3.5 inch stroke there is now way in hell using 302 rods will make 383 cubes it is physically impossible to do with the stock crank stroke and stock bore.
 
All that using the longer conrods does is slows the piston down during rotation and hence alters the power/torque characteristics when compared to the stock crank/ stock rod combo, the Piston still travels the same distance up and down.
 
In the couple of 351's that I've built I've found the long rod combo's give better torque in the lower and mid range compared to the stock rod combos and are smoother revving, they don't seem to rev as hard as the short rod setups and tend to run out of puff 500 rpm lower, but that really does depend on the cam/carb specs as well.
 
I think your old boss may have spent WAY too much time on the grass however, my current long rod 20 thou over 351 in my XD might be worth a total of 354-355 cubes maybe, If all you needed was 302 rods on a 351 crank to make 383 cubes, I think every bloke packin a 351 would have a 383 instead.
 
Now pass it along now so the rest of us can have a toke

^^^^ This
 
If the crank hasn't has an offset grind and hence retains the stock 3.5 inch stroke there is now way in hell using 302 rods will make 383 cubes it is physically impossible to do with the stock crank stroke and stock bore.
 
All that using the longer conrods does is slows the piston down during rotation and hence alters the power/torque characteristics when compared to the stock crank/ stock rod combo, the Piston still travels the same distance up and down.
 
In the couple of 351's that I've built I've found the long rod combo's give better torque in the lower and mid range compared to the stock rod combos and are smoother revving, they don't seem to rev as hard as the short rod setups and tend to run out of puff 500 rpm lower, but that really does depend on the cam/carb specs as well.
 
I think your old boss may have spent WAY too much time on the grass however, my current long rod 20 thou over 351 in my XD might be worth a total of 354-355 cubes maybe, If all you needed was 302 rods on a 351 crank to make 383 cubes, I think every bloke packin a 351 would have a 383 instead.
 
Now pass it along now so the rest of us can have a toke

^^^^ This
 
If the crank hasn't has an offset grind and hence retains the stock 3.5 inch stroke there is now way in hell using 302 rods will make 383 cubes it is physically impossible to do with the stock crank stroke and stock bore.
 
All that using the longer conrods does is slows the piston down during rotation and hence alters the power/torque characteristics when compared to the stock crank/ stock rod combo, the Piston still travels the same distance up and down.
 
In the couple of 351's that I've built I've found the long rod combo's give better torque in the lower and mid range compared to the stock rod combos and are smoother revving, they don't seem to rev as hard as the short rod setups and tend to run out of puff 500 rpm lower, but that really does depend on the cam/carb specs as well.
 
I think your old boss may have spent WAY too much time on the grass however, my current long rod 20 thou over 351 in my XD might be worth a total of 354-355 cubes maybe, If all you needed was 302 rods on a 351 crank to make 383 cubes, I think every bloke packin a 351 would have a 383 instead.
 
Now pass it along now so the rest of us can have a toke

you could always get a cobrajet style manifold and run 2 impco 425's on that with a cobrajet style air cleaner that would look pretty sweet if you could hide the converter well enough. It should make some decent power if you cam and set up the ignition right.

Decided to strip the car for parts, I managed to score a 79 XD S pak with a worked 351 in it, will be a much better car to do up.