Jump to content
gerg

2V Head Refresh

Recommended Posts

I only spent an hour on the exhaust guide bosses as it was too hard to get in any further with the die grinder, and there was little room to improve on.

That's not to say that it's a good design, it's just much more involved to take it any further. Touching the short turn would be pointless as there was a large buildup of carbon along the whole floor, indicating a dead spot already.

The roof seems to be where the flow follows. Where the header bolts on is often criticised for the sharp downward turn. However if you go raising that roof you make it worse and just go past the top of the header flange and create a step.

So the exhausts just need a bit of streamlining around the guide, and some small ridges removed between the seat and the bowl and that's it.

So all up, i have exactly 3 hours 45 min in these heads, and all that's left now is to drop them at a machine shop for all the other bits that need attention.

Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Paid a visit to Super Flow Heads yesterday. They're famous for running that XA doorslammer in the 80s/90s and know clevos inside out. Dropped off my heads after they quoted $1050 for service (incl. 3-angle), machine for press-on seals (Viton, supplied), deck 0.020 or 0.030 (depends how much is off already) and install k-lines.

 

Anyone remember this animal?7a611d5c40e7ec2316ddca98a598e81d.jpg

 

Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
[mention=244]gerg[/mention]...... finished product photos? 
 
Got a couple on the gergwagon thread, but the finished product made my porting look worse because the heads were tanked and cleaned up.... all the carbon was gone so not pretty. I know the air going through the port doesn't give a fuck what it looks like but.... Blah

Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm rebuilding a 302C for a mates '75 F100 at the moment, have been tempted to strip down the heads & give them a port,

but knowing my luck I'd end up hitting a valve seat & have to get cut again lol,

 

How'd you go with that spring kit? I got what looks to be the same kit,

I had issues with spring heights & pressures, with retainer in the kit was 1.72" & 150lb seat pressure,

with standard retainer was 1.78" & 128lb, ended up with Crow +0.100" retainers for 1.88" 105lb seat/275lb open

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
How'd you go with that spring kit? I got what looks to be the same kit,

I had issues with spring heights & pressures, with retainer in the kit was 1.72" & 150lb seat pressure,

with standard retainer was 1.78" & 128lb, ended up with Crow +0.100" retainers for 1.88" 105lb seat/275lb open

 

 

 

The springs and retainers were Crane Blue Racer.

 

That doesn't sound right. Are you running standard valves? Correct installed height should be 1.820" from memory. I was supplied the wrong collets in that package (big block Chev apparently), so I guess anything is possible. The bloke who assembled the heads didn't note anything else wrong with it once all installed. I would say that either your retainers are wrong or your valves are not stock (ie off something else).

 

At least you arrived at a pretty good seat pressure for a mild engine. That should give you about 260 open at a guess. Only problem now could be rocker to retainer clearance if you decide to go with rollers at some stage.

 

I'm rebuilding a 302C for a mates '75 F100 at the moment, have been tempted to strip down the heads & give them a port, but knowing my luck I'd end up hitting a valve seat & have to get cut again lol

 

 

Yeah you should always count on nicking a seat, even if it's just with the chuck or something and not the burr. It's a shame your mate can't stretch to getting the heads serviced, as apart from being able to clean up the dags and ridges in the port, it would be real peace of mind for you knowing the job will be right. It will be an oil burner from day one if the guides are wórn.

 

Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

just noticed the precision sticker on yours, I got his kit from Ebay (Engine parts 24/7), blueracer springs, crane retainers (haven't looked up part no yet), SBI locks.

Heads are fully rebuilt, k-line guides, new valves, crack repaired, viton seals, ect. would of ordered std lenght, he did say heads can very s bit, so yeah won't be porting now,

Yes even said on invoice to check rocker clearance, he checked it with a standard rocker he had, but will keeping an eye out for cheap/2nd hand set of good roller rockers

I call the build Snowball after how it has snowballed, F100 body isn't as straight as it looked previous scrape down on LHS & a quick re ring/bearing & cam, ended up being a bit more,

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×