bear351c 10,270 Posted December 14, 2016 Hello Ford Freaks, just did the front pads on the big, white, land yacht. Took some progress shots, thought it might help someone. Mine are the ones on the left...... 1 steve mcqueen reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,270 Posted December 14, 2016 First up, find a hard, flat surface and after loosening the wheel nuts, jack up the front of your beloved beast, and rest it on some jack stands. If you have a dirt drive, borrow your neighbours concrete, when they go to work, should only take you an hour... You'll need some lock wire, a 19 and 21 mm socket, a G-clamp, some pliers, a little tube of Loctite, Oh....and some new pads, of course....duh.! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,270 Posted December 14, 2016 Rip the snowie off, and gaze in wide, eyed wonder at the 1980's technology from FoMoCo....... Bit hard to see, but, you must remove this locking wire from the 2 caliper bolts. If you dont......good luck trying to get the socket on.! 21mm socket here..... This is a bolt. 19mm socket on here, and push down. This is the passenger side. Here they is. The blue stuff is medium strength Loctite. Still one of the best products ever made. (Shameless plug) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,270 Posted December 14, 2016 Lift the caliper off, it will be tight, due to the lip on the edge of the rotor. Now it's off, rest it on the suspension arm. Try not to let it hang from the hydraulic hose. Hmmm,...says Bear. Wonder what that funny grinding noise is..? Well, numpty, it's this......... Make sure the slide pins are free and glide back and forth. Also check the rubber boots are in good nick, when you pull the bracket off. Separate the 2 pieces, clean and lube the slide pins. Throw a socket in the guts of the piston. This will save you winding the G-clamp for 3 minutes....... Do some physical exercise........... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,270 Posted December 14, 2016 Slowly push the piston back into it's housing. You will feel it get tight, when it hits the bottom. It will almost be flush. NOTE: Check your brake fluid reservoir. If the pads are badly worn down, like mine, someone should have topped up the fluid. As the piston gets pushed closer and closer to the disc rotor, more fluid is needed behind it. When you push both pistons back in, all the way, it will overflow the resevoir, on the booster. Nice new bits, you can see the rusty marks where the old pads were. Again, make sure the dust boots go on correctly. Check for cracks, or perished rubbers. These pads are DB1075 Bendix, the anti rattle spring goes in the top of the caliper, and you need to push them down to install the pads. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,270 Posted December 14, 2016 Apply a drop of Loctite blue, and Re torque the bolts. Then put on some more lock wire. Doesn't matter what type, just as long as it fits in the holes in the bolt heads. The Loctite and torque setting should hold everything. It's just an added safety mechanism. Twist the 2 ends together with pliers, and cut off the excess. Shove the snowie back on, and gently pump the brake pedal, to allow the pistons to settle against the rotor. Test drive..!! 20 - 30 slow and easy applications of the brake, to bed them in. I'll be getting the mobile disc machining guys out, soon. The disc pad backing plate has scored the rotor, on the back of the passenger side. Need to get to work on the morrow..... Have fun, enjoy working on your Ford. They dont make them like that anymore. Bear. 3 deankxf, SirkWhyXF and XFChris reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deankxf 20,292 Posted December 14, 2016 pretty sure i use a 3/4 and 13/16 socket on those bolts..(got a pic of your tool box, looks the metric version of mine if its only metric?)could add to take a look at the possibly 35 year old brake hoses in the process also.. even My XG ones are a bit old at 20yrs (assuming originals) 1 bear351c reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dex 2,065 Posted December 14, 2016 Neat write up , You forgot the last step ,, Drag out the deck chair ,, position yourself thus ,,, Crack a can of your fave brew And stare at your car in awe and reverence 3 bear351c, Crazy2287 and SirkWhyXF reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mr Polson 10,214 Posted December 14, 2016 Shouldn't need to bed in Bendix pads, they have a special stripe on them so they're ready to go from the box. Also, there is a proper brake spreader tool if you don't have a great clamp Still a good write up though! Decent pics too 2 deankxf and bear351c reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steve mcqueen 1,796 Posted December 14, 2016 Awesome write up bear, thanks for going to all that bother and uploading the results. Im a G clamp man myself and find they do the job perfect. 1 bear351c reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lord_fahrquhar 2,580 Posted December 14, 2016 You know given the price of rotors these days would you even bother with a skim? Get some slotteds you know you want to 2 bear351c and SirkWhyXF reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SirkWhyXF 1,533 Posted December 15, 2016 What's mobile machining worth? New rotors are cheap... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,270 Posted December 16, 2016 Twas a wee while ago, but, the local guys used to to do it for $25 per wheel. If you jacked it up, took the rims off, and had it on axle stands. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,270 Posted December 16, 2016 pretty sure i use a 3/4 and 13/16 socket on those bolts..(got a pic of your tool box, looks the metric version of mine if its only metric?) could add to take a look at the possibly 35 year old brake hoses in the process also.. even My XG ones are a bit old at 20yrs (assuming originals) Mines half 'n' half, 'cos i'm old....... Left side is A/F, right is Metric. 1/2" drive at the top, and 1/4" at the front. Had it since I was an apprentice, back when Sidchrome were made in Australia. Not that polished shiny shit, that slips out of your hands if they're covered in oil.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deankxf 20,292 Posted December 16, 2016 Mines half 'n' half, 'cos i'm old....... Left side is A/F, right is Metric. 1/2" drive at the top, and 1/4" at the front. Had it since I was an apprentice, back when Sidchrome were made in Australia. Not that polished shiny shit, that slips out of your hands if they're covered in oil.... mine is a mostly original old set, had a few replacements over the years.. imperial 1/2" drive only. over the years i have bought single metric sockets as needed, i should have just bought the same set in metric(i bought this set from cash converters to replace my apprentice (4 weeks pay)bought cantilever tool box set with metric and imperial ..mate begged me to sell it to him for cost price when he had borrowed it(suspected he hocked it for instant cash and then paid me back when it was gone) cant do anything without tools.. wish i had the original set, was still portable(heavy) but had near everything needed in it 1 bear351c reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EgoXF 2,026 Posted September 22, 2019 Great article bear, i took my calipers off a year ago and couldn't remember which side the bleeder went on so this helped a lot haha. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk 1 bear351c reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,270 Posted September 22, 2019 No probs, glad it helped. 1 EgoXF reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites