Jump to content
LJDB

acl duralite pistons, xflow rods

Recommended Posts

After some info on acl duralite pistons to suit xflow. Cant seem to find anything on them only race series. They have a large slots behind oil rings not like normal like pistons. Are they any good for performance/boost or just replacement rebuild units? Does the slots make them weaker? 

Also are there any differne type xflow rods. I have 2 types one says twr another 250?  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The slots do weaken the piston I wouldn't use them on anything other than a standard rebuild an that's only if I already had them, I've seen a few sets that the top came off, including my own xflow in my XF, it lifted the top of no 1 and sent the rod through the side of the block

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I ran a set of shitter pistons in a engine that did 238rwhp and it lasted years and I turned that engine so hard it used to shake everthing off it I gave up when the flywheel cut the car in half :( I will ad the engine was still going LOL

a stock rod will do 6500 with a set of bolts,,,, or without LOL yes ive done it and the rod did not leave it was a valve :D

arr crossy just boost it :) stock pistons no revs and all TQ

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

PROpain is taken :(

im just a fan of cheap stuff and theres steps you can take to keep it together like getting a clevo or boost HAHA can run 10s with a 3k clevo :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't have any stock Pistons. Only a set of acl dura lite 22cc and a set 8cc acl race in current engine. Iv got 2 rod sets one says TWR 4b1 which has the dura lites on them and another with just 250 and look the same size but are slightly different to look at. I've been looking at boost and crunching numbers. Iv got most bits to build a xflow but don't wanna do it around shit Pistons. E series swap would be easy and cheap but the boys in blue won't be to happy.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The QLD dirt slingers use a Wiseco slug on a Scatt H beam rod.You can either bush the rod end to suit the piston pin or bore the piston to the chev rod size.But they don't brake and there well proven.

 

Mine has seen 8000rpm plus and are still inside the block.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't have any stock Pistons. Only a set of acl dura lite 22cc and a set 8cc acl race in current engine. Iv got 2 rod sets one says TWR 4b1 which has the dura lites on them and another with just 250 and look the same size but are slightly different to look at. I've been looking at boost and crunching numbers. Iv got most bits to build a xflow but don't wanna do it around shit Pistons. E series swap would be easy and cheap but the boys in blue won't be to happy.

Why would it worry the boys in blue? I was always told if you went smaller in engine capacity then it was an ok modification. Eg going from 4.1lt to a 4.0lt motor. I thought that was the law in Victoria anyway.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Why would it worry the boys in blue? I was always told if you went smaller in engine capacity then it was an ok modification. Eg going from 4.1lt to a 4.0lt motor. I thought that was the law in Victoria anyway.

Still needs to comply with newer engine into older cars laws ie newer engine needs everything out of donor car including stock computer, cats and any other pollution gear. Plus if you add a turbo I believe that changes the capacity of the engine allowed.

 

That is a very ugly pic there Thom, must have made a hell of a noise when it let go. On the bright side at least you would have one extra beer coaster

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

 

That is a very ugly pic there Thom, must have made a hell of a noise when it let go. On the bright side at least you would have one extra beer coaster

 

That it did I've still got it kicking around somewhere which is amazing considering it was 9 years ago

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Change of engine Hide

There are 3 scenarios that could apply when changing an engine.

 

Change of engine - scenario 1

 

The replacement engine is identical to the original engine.

The replacement engine is an option allowed by the manufacturer for the same model vehicle.

Documents required:

 

if the engine is optional to the original, a signed declaration from the registered operator, motor mechanic, or dealer in that make of vehicle or an Automotive Engineer certifying the engine is optional for the vehicle model, and that all modifications made by the manufacturer for the same vehicle model with that optional engine have been completed

an original receipt for the purchase of the engine as proof of ownership of the engine

a completed Change of vehicle details form [PDF 135 Kb].

You will need to attend a VicRoads Customer Service Centre to have the vehicle's engine inspected to confirm the new engine details. No appointment is required.

 

Note: The optional engine must be offered in Australia by the vehicle manufacturer as an option for that vehicle (or certified variants).

 

Change of engine - scenario 2

 

The replacement engine is not of a type offered by the vehicle manufacturer as an option for that vehicle.

Where alterations, or changes to the vehicle's frame or structure are made, and/or specially fabricated supports or structures are used.

Documents required:

 

a VASS Approval certificate from a VicRoads’ Vehicle Assessment Signatory

an original receipt for the purchase of the engine as proof of ownership of the engine

a completed Change of vehicle details form [PDF 135 Kb].

You will need to attend a VicRoads Customer Service Centre for an inspection of a vehicle to confirm the new engine details. No appointment is required.

 

Change of engine - scenario 3

 

The replacement engine is not of a type and/or make offered by the vehicle manufacturer as an option for that vehicle, but is equivalent in general configuration, power, mass, and emissions standard to that of the original or optional engine for the vehicle model and can be installed without any structural alterations.

Documents required:

 

a signed declaration from the registered operator, motor mechanic, or dealer in that make of vehicle or an Automotive Engineer certifying that all modifications made by the manufacturer for the same vehicle model with that engine have been completed. A VASS Approval certificate from a VicRoads’ Vehicle Assessment Signatory can be provided instead of a signed declaration.

an original receipt for the purchase of the engine must be provided as proof of ownership of the engine

a completed Change of vehicle details form [PDF 135 Kb] providing new engine details

 

Scenario 3 is interesting, maybe a e series swap is ok without engineers if done the correct way. Now obviously a turbo is out of the question in regards to being compliant but the car already has all the pollution gear off and is modified to a point that it would already fail.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Thom wheres the rest of the piston? is that the stock engine you use to rev to 6000+

 

 

to much NOS I think :D

 

It was in the sump, this one had a balanced bottom end , ported head and intake xf efi cam, roller rockers and a couple of other bits it was a nice daily driver engine, it never got spun over 4700rpm and only did around 10,000ks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

was the tune a little poo for it to lift the top of a piston? I did that to a holden 6 some time back we put it down to tune or a cast piston cant do 7500 rpm :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
was the tune a little poo for it to lift the top of a piston? I did that to a holden 6 some time back we put it down to tune or a cast piston cant do 7500 rpm :D

 

As far as I can gather it was pretty good, it was only fed by a stock webber and an xe dizzy to get rid of the est

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×