wagoon 2,429 Posted June 22, 2015 Installed some generic extractors on my wagon and now there is a rather large exhaust leak. I'm thinking it has to do with the 2 bolts in the pic as they are the only ones that are not up the top of the slot and it sounds and feels like this is where the leak is coming from. Thinking that the bolts are not clamping and sealing the gasket. I did have washers on the bolts but tried the bolts in the pic which are short as I thought the length may have been an issue but either bolt and washer or no washer made no change. Any body else had this problem before? How would I fix it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PRO250 1,506 Posted June 22, 2015 more tightypull them off and stick a straight edge across them Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wagoon 2,429 Posted June 22, 2015 more tighty I have done them to spec which is 31NM (I actually did it to 35NM) Then when I got the shits I didn't want to damage the torque wrench so I did it up by ratchet and it was more than 35NM pull them off and stick a straight edge across them Hadn't done that yet. I know they aren't dead straight as they pull in as I'm doing them up. Will have a look at that tomorrow. Thanks 1 PRO250 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted June 22, 2015 I got me a set of second-handies for my clevo and no 4 had warped itself by probably a couple of mm, so I cut the bridge in the flange to no 3 and that freed it up some, ground off a bit of the face using the side of a drop saw disc, trued it up some more. Bolted it up with some goo and never thought about it again. So maybe you need to cut the bridge between ports to free it up. Looking at the pic, you really should have some washers on those bolts. 1 wagoon reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,270 Posted June 23, 2015 Yep, shes warped. Don't overtighten with an ally head, you WILL strip a thread. Remove them and get 'em heated/twisted or re-faced. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SLO247 1,713 Posted June 23, 2015 Can you just cut the bridge as said? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
adrianphu123 73 Posted June 23, 2015 I agree with needing washers on those bolts, and not spring washers either. As you're tightening them, they'll catch onto the slot and rip the washer apart. Are those the original bolts? When i did mine, some of the original bolts bottomed out in the hole before even touching the header flange. Go with studs and brass nuts, header install becomes a lot easier 2 deankxf and Thom reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wagoon 2,429 Posted June 23, 2015 Thanks for all the suggestions. If you read the OP the sentence before the pic it says that I did try washer and the washers can be seen on the top bolts. I mainly took that pic without the washers cause it showed the gap to the top of the slot which I thought was the issue. Today I have fixed the issue but fuck me it was one drama after the other and it took 7 hours to make work. The quailty of these extractors is absolutely terrible, there was nothing right with them and even though I bought them from someone they had never been used and I think I now know why. I will let the pics do the talking So what I did was cut the extractors into 2 halves and made the cut in a easy to reweld section down near the collector I then put a slice in the tube so the flange had somewhere to move and moved the flange around till it was fairly parallel. I could not get it spot on as the flange was nowhere near flat and since I needed to fix it today I used a grinder and took out the high spots until the gaps were under 0.5mm. After doing this I then attempted to fit the extractors to the car again. I noticed that the bottom of the flange was still sitting a couple of mm's away from the head and since the extractors where in 2 havles I knew it was no longer the issue. There is a angle bracket from the gearbox to the block that travels under the starter and ends just behind the engine mount. This bracket was the cause all along for the extractors not fitting. So I trimmed the angle bracket down like this in the pic Once I trimmed the bracket and made a small adjustment to the extractors they fit like the should have. Yes the extractors were made very badly but if you have a manual car with these gearbox to engine brackets they must be trimmed before installing the extractors. I have no idea what the angle bracket is for as my factory manual s pak sedan does not have them but this wagon which is factory manual does. The sedan is 1983 and the wagon is 1982. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thom 6,651 Posted June 23, 2015 My 84 xe is a factory manual and doesn't have that bracket Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted June 23, 2015 Bracket delete cuzzy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wagoon 2,429 Posted June 23, 2015 My 84 xe is a factory manual and doesn't have that bracket Thom is your a sedan or wagon or ute? Just trying to get a picture of what and why. Bracket delete cuzzy So I can delete the bracket or Ford deleted the bracket after making my wagon cause they knew in the future some dickhead was going to try and fit extractors to the wagon and they just want to piss me off ? So around what time was the bracket deleted?(wagon 82 has, sedan 83 hasn't, Thom's 84 hasn't) And WTF was the bracket for in the first place? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thom 6,651 Posted June 23, 2015 Mines a pov pack sedan, floor shift 250 4 speed Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wagoon 2,429 Posted June 23, 2015 Mines a pov pack sedan, floor shift 250 4 speed Hmmm interesting, has anyone else got a factory manual car that can shed some light on this? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thom 6,651 Posted June 23, 2015 I messaged my mate who has my s pack I was stripping, he says it has the bracket, Its a 84 floor shift 4 speed car too he said it has the bracket on it and the exhaust mounted to it 1 wagoon reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wagoon 2,429 Posted June 23, 2015 I messaged my mate who has my s pack I was stripping, he says it has the bracket, Its a 84 floor shift 4 speed car too he said it has the bracket on it and the exhaust mounted to it WTF??????? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thom 6,651 Posted June 23, 2015 I'll try and get some photos but it's quite hard to get to no days 1 wagoon reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wagoon 2,429 Posted June 23, 2015 All good Thom, I'm more interested in why they are there. Clearly it was not a year that it was done or a certain body shape ie wagon or ute etc. It can't be related to towing as my wagon has no tow bar, but that may have been changed before I got it. Just trying to work out why the supports are there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thom 6,651 Posted June 23, 2015 Possibly to do with nvh Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted June 23, 2015 I thought the brackets went from the lower half of the bell to a couple of sump bolts... My Corty and dad's XF had them. That angle bracket looks very backyard. Never seen it before 1 ricktewagon reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wagoon 2,429 Posted June 23, 2015 It looks backyard now cause I have butchered it. There is actually 1 on either side of the engine but the one on the other side looks a little different. It looked very factory before I hacked it up. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
adrianphu123 73 Posted June 23, 2015 I was wondering what that rear bolt hole was for Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,270 Posted June 23, 2015 Reckon Thom's on the money. Looks like it goes to the bell housing, for support, or anti vibration, maybe?? If it's not on the later models, it wont hurt to give it the flick. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wagoon 2,429 Posted June 23, 2015 Yeah it attaches to the bottom of the bellhousing. Only 1 bolt each end, takes about 15 seconds to remove. I kniw cause I had to remive the bastard 4 times to trim it enough to clear the extractors Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted June 24, 2015 There a vibration damper of sorts. Found in ally on the AU OHC engines which you delete to fit in a EF. 1 wagoon reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thom 6,651 Posted June 24, 2015 There a vibration damper of sorts. Found in ally on the AU OHC engines which you delete to fit in a EF. E series they bolt on au it's part of the sump can't find a photo of the e series ones Edit yes I can 3 wagoon, gerg and XTREME KARTS XF reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites