waynegrovs 1 Posted June 9, 2014 I have a matching numbers xc gs ute fitted with a 302 clevo c10 std bw diff, currently in a long rebuild, what I'm looking to do is turn the 302 into a 351 running arround 10:1 comp (to be safe on our shitty fuel or maybe go higher and run E85). At the moment (as I brought it) she runs a 600 vac holley and I think a mild cam it has a single contact points dizzy in it. What should I do to get about 400 to 450hp out of her the car will be mainly street driven with the odd run down the stip my budget with be arround $6000 to $7000 I want the vehicle reliable and running hydrulic cam. And yes I will change to disc brake 9" between 3.25 and 3.5:1 ratio Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RAWDEAL 222 Posted June 9, 2014 I have a matching numbers xc gs ute fitted with a 302 clevo c10 std bw diff, currently in a long rebuild, what I'm looking to do is turn the 302 into a 351 running arround 10:1 comp (to be safe on our shitty fuel or maybe go higher and run E85). At the moment (as I brought it) she runs a 600 vac holley and I think a mild cam it has a single contact points dizzy in it. What should I do to get about 400 to 450hp out of her the car will be mainly street driven with the odd run down the stip my budget with be arround $6000 to $7000 I want the vehicle reliable and running hydrulic cam. And yes I will change to disc brake 9" between 3.25 and 3.5:1 ratio Get a good dizzy for it first, ie ICE or MSD, then get a msd digital programmable box, very easy to tune the spark that way, then change the diff ratio. after that i would start looking at options for stroking the engine ect .. but u will be amazed on how much better it will run with a proper ignition and 3.5 ratio diff! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
waynegrovs 1 Posted June 9, 2014 thanks for the advice should I look at using the 6" 302 rods or not at the moment the engine runs real well you can have it sit for 6 mths and she stars after 5or 6 winds of the starter no rattles or smoke Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
waynegrovs 1 Posted June 9, 2014 Also forgot to add at the moment when she gets a warmed up she tends to pre ignite when you turn her off I think the timing chain is most likely seen much better days Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RAWDEAL 222 Posted June 9, 2014 Also forgot to add at the moment when she gets a warmed up she tends to pre ignite when you turn her off I think the timing chain is most likely seen much better days Car is meant for unleaded fuel. you will prolly find that it will stop once u put a good dizzy/box in it. my corty did that before i put an electronic dizzy in it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trev Vaa 1,185 Posted June 9, 2014 no need for E85 for that power. if you are planning a full build, this is my suggestion. 351, 20 thou overbore 6" rods, forged pistons to suit, 10.5:1 comp alloy heads (AFD 2v will best the best bang for buck) with matching intake roller rockers etc mild hyd cam (lunati 62503 will be suffice for 450ish hp/420ish ftlbs, though there is plenty of other options) balanced bottom end 700cfm carby, may as well order a pro systems etc to suit and save on the tuning costs later on ignition an XD/E elec dizzy will do, just get it graphed to suit motor, and then if you want a rev limiter get a control box... very simple, very easy, very reliable. nothing high tech, not really much to go wrong either. if you really want E-85, alloy heads, 12.5:1 compression and same combo, will be extremely responsive to drive, really torquey, but be prepared for obvious extra fuel burn and difficulty finding fuel at times. 2 XTREME KARTS XF and Stevemack reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stevemack 122 Posted June 9, 2014 What XCSEDAN said, good heads, a cam and good ignition system will work wonders. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
waynegrovs 1 Posted June 9, 2014 thanks for the advice a little more its probably wank factor I know but I'd like a nice cammy note a idle and as for exhaust should I go tuned headers and twin 2.5" exhaust and what carb setup do you sugest I have had trouble with a 750 holley before keeping tune and developed a bit of a flat spot in an xc intercepter I owned but when running right it went very well from what I remember the specs were as follows 40 thou over cast fat tops not balanced 750 holley sigerson hi-flo 1H cam wide ratio toploader from a 6 cylinder corty pig to get off the line with the auto diff but howled in second and thirdwas also running 2.25 twin no headers no I dea what power it had but went ok Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trev Vaa 1,185 Posted June 9, 2014 4>1 headers (pacemaker) twin 2.5" pipes, try and go a straight through muffler, this actually does make a difference in how the car performs, even if you run a hotdog behind it to quieten it down a bit. get your carby tuned by someone who knows what they're doing and can set it up how you want it (depending on your state may be able to recommend someone) or just order a pro systems/zok race carb/quickfuel to suit and it'll be pretty good out of the box. lunati 62503 at idle, nice lope. the 62504 will make more HP but has a much more agressive power band and idle. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
waynegrovs 1 Posted June 10, 2014 who makes a good std stroke 351 crank I have heard pro comp are crap, I dont want to spend shit loads on it upto about $500 max or should I look arround for a 2nd hand 4ma Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trev Vaa 1,185 Posted June 10, 2014 just look around for a good standard crank. 4MAB is factory balanced, thats the only difference between 4MA and 4MAB. both made from the same grade metal etc. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted June 10, 2014 I know a bloke who spins them to 7500 in a ski boat no probs, with stock bottom end bits. Clevos are race motors de-tuned for the street. Balance is the key if you want them to live. 2 bear351c and slydog reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trev Vaa 1,185 Posted June 10, 2014 ^ not wrong, they are strong as fuck, only reason im replacing my rods is because of smurf juice. not sure how well they'll hold up with a decent shot. standard clevo crank balanced will hold together at 7500+rpm seen it plenty. obviously needs ARP bolts & studs to do so. but back in the nascar day they used to sit them at 7000+rpm brand new. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted June 10, 2014 just look around for a good standard crank. 4MAB is factory balanced, thats the only difference between 4MA and 4MAB. both made from the same grade metal etc. I knew they're Brinell-tested for hardness but didn't know about the balancing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
waynegrovs 1 Posted June 10, 2014 thamks for all the info I am thinking of aftermarket rods after reading factory 302 rods are a bit soft who makes good rods at a decent price and what roller rockers should I use (brand wise) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted June 10, 2014 You can't rev a hyd cammed clevo hard enough where it still makes power to brake a stock rod. 3 PRO250, XTREME KARTS XF and Trev Vaa reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trev Vaa 1,185 Posted June 10, 2014 rods will be fine, i've seen a motor make over 500hp with them and it's still going, see's 7000rpm all the time too. just put decent rod bolts in, if you're really worried you can get them shot peened... but really no need. roller rockers, yella terra are good, or comp, or crower etc 1 gerg reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
