High Idle - EFI xflow

[n00bus m@x1mus 465]

What??? U have a working EGR???

[Mr Polson 10,214]

Its still on there and hooked up, no idea if it works.

 

Haven't gotten around to blanking it off yet

['Nova 997]

Have you tried just swapping the throttle bodies back over to see if that helps? Or did you have to dismantle the one that was on it to make up the shinny one?

[n00bus m@x1mus 465]

What now?

[Mr Polson 10,214]

Not yet Nova, that's a plan for the weekend if the EGR doesn't turn out to be the problem.

 

I kept the original one from the wagon intact, used another one I got to assemble the shiny one.

[n00bus m@x1mus 465]

If you have dodged it somehow and that butterfly doesnt seal 100% around the orrifice then thats ur problem right there. Or if youve left out a shaft seal and its sucking air in thru the side then thats just as bad. U will be surprised at how small of an opening will feed a 4.1L engine at idle. When fiddling with the tps arrangement on my megasquirt xflow with no isc i treid shutting the butterfly completely air tight and drilling a 1/8th hole in the butterfly same as a race carb has to help with idle mixtures and the thing idled at 950rpm. I needed a smaller hole to get it down to 800rpm so i used a 3.0mm bit and that worked well.

[Mr Polson 10,214]

Maybe I left out a shaft seal...

 

So the butterfly should be completely airtight? As in hold it up to a light no light passes through?

[n00bus m@x1mus 465]

Maybe I left out a shaft seal...

 

So the butterfly should be completely airtight? As in hold it up to a light no light passes through?

100% no light thru. Even a slight slither will allow a fair bit of air thru.

[Mr Polson 10,214]

Hmm well I'll check that on the weekend definitely.

[ZL. 19]

Pulled this from here: http://www.fueltech.com.au/trade_vehicletips.html

 

STALLING XF EFI FALCONS
A common problem in automatic XF Falcon & ZL Fairlane. Because the engine is such a long stroke device, the air flow meter setting is very important. Any air leaks from inlet manifold, EGR valve, rear main seal will cause the engine grief - fix them first. After a basic tune of timing, plugs, fuel etc., and after ensuring the transmission is OK - should stall test 1850 to 2000 rpm - the following sequence should have the old girl purring.

1. Disconnect idle speed motor, select drive against hand brake, set idle to 550 rpm from the throttle body air screw.
2. At air flow meter (AFM), wind CO bypass screw OUT max. 3 to 4 turns. Flip top off AFM and adjust spring tension for the flap as close as possible to 1.0v on load pin.
3. Make necessary adjustments to maintain a smooth idle of 500 to 550 rpm in gear by dabbing on throttle to ensure engine will return to idle without attempting to stall. Final adjustment on airscrew will help (clockwise to richer). Appreciate the engine needs to be leaner than you think.
4. Turn engine off, reconnect idle speed motor, and do not adjust throttle airscrew because NORMALLY the thing will idle in neutral at around 850-900rpm.
5. To avoid the transmission bangs selecting reverse, FIRST select DRIVE with foot on brake, then select reverse - the thump will be reduced. When the transmission is repaired is the time to make pressure solenoid adjustments to reduce this ageing problem

 

 

[Mr Polson 10,214]

Hmm good info there, only issue is I can't wind the throttle bypass screw in far enough to reduce the idle that much.

 

New problem too, fuel consumption is excessively high. As in, more than 20L/100km.

[Mr Polson 10,214]

Well according to my workshop manual, high fuel consumption could be due to:

Fault in TFI

Vane Airflow Meter sticking

Vane Air Temp out of calibration

ECU defective

Air Flow sensor malfunction

Fuel Injectors defective

Fuel pressure too high - regulator faulty

Engine Coolant Temp defective

Throttle Position Sensor defective

[Mr Polson 10,214]

Changed throttle bodies, idle is now slow.

 

Problem is its rough :/ engine seems to "search" at idle.

 

Misses under medium/heavy throttle, fine under light throttle/cruising.

Using heaps of fuel around the streets, fine once on highway.

[SPACK 68]

Time to reset everything...lol

[Mr Polson 10,214]

Everything? What is there that I can actually reset/tune/adjust?

[Thom 6,651]

Disconnect the battery for a little while let the ecu reset

[gerg 10,871]

Sounds like TPS is out, computer maybe thinks it's in acc pump mode all the time.

 

There's a bypass screw on the air meter, lets you adjust idle mixture much like an Impco gas mixer. That might be another option

['Nova 997]

Anytime I've heard anyone touch the bypass screws on the air meter they've never been able to get it to run properly again! I'd try another air meter before I touch that bypass chris!

[Mr Polson 10,214]

I have anther TPS, may have to look at that.

 

Yeah I'm not overly keen on fiddling with the AFM, although someone's previously fiddled with the wagons, it doesn't have the "anti-tamper" plugs on it.

[Mr Polson 10,214]

Throttle body wasn't sealing on plenum chamber properly. Causing air leaks.

Also probably had a bad spark on cyl 2, spark leads appear to be crap - even though they're Bosch.

 

Pulled a spark plug out, all burning as they should, although the gap was 1.6mm.

[bear351c 10,271]

BUMP.

 

So, does anyone know if the ISC are unavailable, still? Anyone pulled one apart, and can show me the internals?

 

My ZL is idling a little high in neutral (900-1,000 rpm) but, fine in Drive. (500-600 rpm) Checked timing (with Spout disconnected), tweaked the base idle on the throttle body, with ISC disconnected. just seems to be a big range between N and D.

 

1985 Leaded, 250 EFI, 128,000k (all stock)

 

[gerg 10,871]

If you drop the base idle does it drop too low in drive?

[tpak addict 1,909]

does on mine.... Mines exactly the same....

 

600 rpm drive - 1000 neutral.....

Not too fussed to be honest as it idles great at the lights and doesnt stall....

Was worse when I got it.....

[bear351c 10,271]

If you drop the base idle does it drop too low in drive?

 

Yep.

 

does on mine.... Mines exactly the same....

 

600 rpm drive - 1000 neutral.....

Not too fussed to be honest as it idles great at the lights and doesnt stall....

Was worse when I got it.....

 

Yep.

[bear351c 10,271]

Not heaps annoying, but it just isn't right, and thats what bugs me. Maybe I'm OCD or something. Or is it CDO? (in alphabetical order, the way it should be)

 

Shift into drive then reverse or it bangs like a dunny door in a gale, and chirps the wheels in my gravel driveway