GspecZL 979 Posted July 11, 2013 according to a good source the AU motor can fit with sump mods. If you down space the sway bar. If so im going au motor. Ive been driving my AU all day and its just such a rocket compared to the ZL. 1 Thom reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dizzy616 183 Posted July 11, 2013 will the steel sump fit from a old 4.0l onto a au motor? and will the xg mounts fit to the au motor? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GspecZL 979 Posted July 11, 2013 Apparently that cannot be done. but I am not sure. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
revhead 1,392 Posted July 11, 2013 yeh they like to throw pushrods to the crossies plus like mine did diz ,it chucked a conrod onto the road ,lol among other bits of bits , sump on AU bolts to main bearing caps ,early sump fits up to under side of block only. 1 GspecZL reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GspecZL 979 Posted July 11, 2013 I think the XG mounts still work on the AU. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GspecZL 979 Posted July 11, 2013 is it true that you can do E series lower XF upper mounts rather than XG anyway? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
revhead 1,392 Posted July 11, 2013 is it true that you can do E series lower XF upper mounts rather than XG anyway? correct yes just use xg to chassis mounts and xf rubber to block mounts Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thom 6,651 Posted July 11, 2013 will the steel sump fit from a old 4.0l onto a au motor? and will the xg mounts fit to the au motor? Timing cover and rear man cap need to be changed to late El as Au and El hybrid have a larger main journal 1 GspecZL reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GspecZL 979 Posted July 11, 2013 i think i will stick with late EL and an AU head. 1 revhead reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
revhead 1,392 Posted July 11, 2013 when you buy your au head make sure you get it complete as the cam as they are diff to early el ,but same as series 2 el ,arh!lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GspecZL 979 Posted July 11, 2013 i was aiming for the later EL motor anyway. Should make things less painfull. I figure the late el has the dizzy. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
revhead 1,392 Posted July 11, 2013 yup 10/1997 el up are the same as Au series 1, if im wrong someone jump in ,is it the AU3 motor or the 2 , thats the best Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GspecZL 979 Posted July 11, 2013 I am calling on Thom to answer that one. 1 revhead reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
revhead 1,392 Posted July 11, 2013 when the AU came out ,i was moved from tools to spares ,and never really paid much attention to the AU series ,sold a shit load of right front door locking mechs and bloody electric window regs lol and window switches 1 GspecZL reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GspecZL 979 Posted July 11, 2013 and i bought one of those door locks! 1 revhead reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
xeeclipse 37 Posted July 11, 2013 Define stronger? No shitty guides or tensioner for the chain to flap against. Unless you over rev the 250 past 4,500rpm it's as reliable as a boat anchor. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
xeeclipse 37 Posted July 11, 2013 Btw I'd be using an AU E-Gas motor for this project hooked up to a T5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thom 6,651 Posted July 11, 2013 I'd go opposite direction, especially running straight gas put simply Au head/ e series short = lower comp than standard, Au short e series head bumps compression up which is beneficial for lpg, Au series 1 2 & 3 (excluding tickford and gas engines) there were two main differences, series one the casting is slightly different to 2&3 and on series one a Ef or El alternator will fit ( if planning to fit a steel sump to an Au engine I would use series 1 as you have to use an Au/BA alternator on the later engines as two pick up points for the alternator are on the sump ) and au's didn't get the multi layered steel head gasket and stronger bolts until series 2 (if ever doing a head gasket on any 4.0l use an Au gasket and bolts best fix out of any, one of the ones I did in a Ef a few years ago has lasted over 25000ks) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thom 6,651 Posted July 11, 2013 Correct on the dates revhead, the easiest way to spot one is the timing cover & head will have wr2axx instead of 94/95 da (or dt if xr6) cast into them, wr2 is the prefix for Au parts as far as im aware. Any 4.0l dizzy will drop straight into an Au as well 1 revhead reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wes 214 Posted July 11, 2013 No shitty guides or tensioner for the chain to flap against. Unless you over rev the 250 past 4,500rpm it's as reliable as a boat anchor. pffft.... seriously what planet are you on? Is that your worst complaint about a 4L? Non stop revving my 4L to 6k with 30 psi and 30,000 km and never had an issue that you speak of. Countless other 4L motors too. Crossies? Lmao, hold them at revs anything close to 4k for more than 30 seconds and the lifter noise is unbearable not to mention endless bent push rods, snapped rocker gear, thrown rods through blocks and sumps, blowing gaskets, stretching heads (aren't they made of paper?). Core shift, melting rings and pistons. yada yada. They're just not a pleasant or happy motor in comparison. Sure, people love them and stubbornly refuse to change but call a spade a spade, they're a piece of shit with a very low ceiling in comparison to the 4L 2 GspecZL and revhead reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blackxt 699 Posted July 11, 2013 my mate ran a aussie speed manifold and a 600 cfm carby , with a modified xf electronic dizy , will all be very easy to get going from memory aussie speed sell a dizy aswell . the car went like hell , the motors in a fuel injected fairlane now and it doesn't feel like its has a much torque and dyno sheet is only like 10 more hp on efi . 1 GspecZL reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thom 6,651 Posted July 12, 2013 Define stronger? No shitty guides or tensioner for the chain to flap against. Unless you over rev the 250 past 4,500rpm it's as reliable as a boat anchor. The 4.0 I used to have in my Ute copped daily abuse all the way to the 7700rpm limiter over 2 years and nearly 110,000kms, so I don't see where you get unreliability from Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted July 12, 2013 Yeah thats a funny one isn't it...LOL A OHC is a MILLION better than a xflow stocko NAT ASP. For a worked NAT ASP engine though a OHC can't come close to a xflow.They can't take a big enough spring to use enough camshaft to make use of the head.Even billit rocker's just break under stress due to the design.My head porter has found the limit on the NAT ASP units in speedway and some guys are going back to xflows. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
xeeclipse 37 Posted July 12, 2013 pffft.... seriously what planet are you on? Is that your worst complaint about a 4L? Non stop revving my 4L to 6k with 30 psi and 30,000 km and never had an issue that you speak of. Countless other 4L motors too. Crossies? Lmao, hold them at revs anything close to 4k for more than 30 seconds and the lifter noise is unbearable not to mention endless bent push rods, snapped rocker gear, thrown rods through blocks and sumps, blowing gaskets, stretching heads (aren't they made of paper?). Core shift, melting rings and pistons. yada yada. They're just not a pleasant or happy motor in comparison. Sure, people love them and stubbornly refuse to change but call a spade a spade, they're a piece of shit with a very low ceiling in comparison to the 4L This is coming from the guy who had the rattliest 4L in the land ....There's video proof If used within their production limitations the crossflow without doubt would be the more reliable....period. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trev Vaa 1,185 Posted July 12, 2013 but its not being used within its production limitations? in stock form a crossy is much more robust, but, they are slugs and gutless. plenty of torque but no hp and no where near as economical. as for showing lip towards Wes' old 4L you really are an idiot, that is a 9sec car, and it's not that rattly? ever heard an XR6T with uprated valve springs? pretty much exactly the same. as for breaking tensioners, i broke one at 7000rpm and drove around for 3 months before i could be assed spending a few hours fixing it? and it was abused the whole time and afterwards? a 4l is a much more mechanically efficient motor than a crossy, it's what they are designed to be, if you argue that, i give up. AU sump will fit with mods i think you just need to cut the sump up a bit, Wes would know? or did you use a custom sump on yours Wes? Go the au motor, its a much smarter choice, and with the metal shim style headgasket they rarely blow unless they get cooked. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites