Spray Painting for the first timer.

[mcfly94 169]

Going to blow over some of my car, where I have just etch from where I got surface rust off, and paint new guards and bonnet.

After all tips and advice and ill be using acrylic.

I have a huge compressor and regulator, going to get a gun tomorrow, found a HVLP with 3 nozzles think it was 1.5, 1.7 and 2 for $130 at Gasweld (now known as Adelaide tools)

 

The rear quarter will need bog and I plan on using fibreglass reinforced bog, got it already.

 

Now so far, I have rust converted the panel and etched it, and now I want to bog, got normal bog in the at the moment but wasn't completed so ill take it out and do it again properly.

 

After that do I high fill primer? then base coat? then clear?

 

 

[steve mcqueen 1,796]

My tip is

"wait for spring weather, its much to cold right now to paint"

[hendrixhc 10,921]

Bare metal. Etch. Prime. Bog. Smoothe. Prime. High fill. Wet sand 600. Base colour. Clear coat.

 

Sounds simple.

 

Steves right tho. But cold at the minute unless you got heaters.

[mcfly94 169]

what type of primer goes over the etch?

[revhead 1,392]

2 pak primer filler make sure you use an ms hardner

 

if your covering repairs 3x hefty coats 

 

you want to heat the shed right up but at the same time an open fire will blow you up a small bar heater is good

[mcfly94 169]

2 pak primer filler make sure you use an ms hardner

 

if your covering repairs 3x hefty coats 

 

you want to heat the shed right up but at the same time an open fire will blow you up a small bar heater is good

can you use 2pak primer filler with acrylic paint?

[hendrixhc 10,921]

You can by a primer filler which will do the prime and hi fill. You can use more thinners to thin it down as well. I got mine from crash supplies at stepney.

[mcfly94 169]

Thanks guys ill get my stuff ready for when the nice weather kicks in!

Im my list I have etch primer, primer filler, ice blue metallic base and clear, and spray gun.

I already have fibreglass bog.

 

What sort of tip is best for each paint type, best paint mix for each paint type and best pressure for each paint type?

[revhead 1,392]

buy yourself a STAR  spray gun there around $100 bucks itl have the tips in the box,also when you use the etch primer ,its not like a normal primer its quiet watery ,dont put heaps on just enough to cover the bare metal or repair area

 

 when your ready to paint if you need any info,just ask ,ive lost count of the amount of car bikes trucks ive done in the last 30yrs

[clevocortina 1,109]

Going to blow over some of my car, where I have just etch from where I got surface rust off, and paint new guards and bonnet.

After all tips and advice and ill be using acrylic.

I have a huge compressor and regulator, going to get a gun tomorrow, found a HVLP with 3 nozzles think it was 1.5, 1.7 and 2 for $130 at Gasweld (now known as Adelaide tools)

 

The rear quarter will need bog and I plan on using fibreglass reinforced bog, got it already.

 

Now so far, I have rust converted the panel and etched it, and now I want to bog, got normal bog in the at the moment but wasn't completed so ill take it out and do it again properly.

 

After that do I high fill primer? then base coat? then clear?

 

 

 .

 

 

Any area you have etched will need to be primed with either hifill or surface as paint dosn't stick as well to bare etch,

 

also with any rust pitts, holes, etc wire wheel the absolute shit out of them and use rust converter

then use the fiberglass as you have done, you will still need to apply normal filler over the top as Glass leave large pin hole and craters that primer just cant fill, even though it's called hifill its build still isn't that thick.

 

Then block all primed areas with 240 or 320 dry if you like then 600 - 800 wet.

 

on your blend panel's/ area just use either 1000 or grey scotchbrite to scuff up the clear you DO NOT want to go through to colour as this defeats the purpose of doing blends,

 

With your guards / bonnet if they are new as in just in black e coat you will need to prime them before you paint them, I'm asumming you can wet on wet it like we do with 2pak which means you just prep the panel and apply primer then colour then clear in one go.

 

The gun your were speaking of is good for primer but the tip size is to large for top coat you want a 1.3 - 1.4 for top coat and spray pressure

at 1.5 - 2 bar (22 - 29) psi.

 

 

you will need a blending agent for the blend panels so the metallic lays down evenly and dosnt sit up in the sanding marks, any paint shop will be able to understand what you need for this procedure.

 

also you do not rub the base before applying clear. that's all i can think of at the moment

[mcfly94 169]

thanks heaps guys, hopefully get the car looking like a nice clean daily soon! bit ratty atm

[mcfly94 169]

I think he should start custom plenums intakes too

[Mr Polson 10,214]

A piece of advice I was given at school was to apply the clear coat pretty much instantly after painting the color, less chance of "orange peel".

 

When my mate done my front panels he didn't even clean the color out of the gun, just put the clear straight in and its worked pretty well, our biggest issue has been lack of proper prep...

[Campo 869]

Have seem a lot about wet on wet painting, does it come up good enough? Would the base dry properly underneath?

[revhead 1,392]

wet on wet is fine but that method is from primer to colour and clear,when you put your base coat on as soon as youve applied this and it has coverage,you must clear coat ,you dont touch or rub the base coat ,you mix your clear and blow it on,base coat atomize,s and is basically dry after being sprayed on the part panel unless youve put the base coat on thick in areas ,also with metalics you dont paint in lines like you would with a solid colour you lower your air pressure to get the colour on and you need to do a technical coat , 

 

also to beat getting dry patches etc get down and look along the panels your applying you solid colour ,and or clear onto ,

[gerg 10,871]

I did a night time spraypainting course, and basically with acrylic you don't need to key in between coats unless the bottom coat is old and hardened. Because you use more thinners with acrylic, the high solvent content dissolves the top of the previous layer slightly, giving a sort of chemical key-in.

 

But wet-on-wet is probably something for the experts. It's really treading the fine line between a nice, glassy finish and having deep sags and runs everywhere. There's nothing worse than throwing down a coat, standing back and admiring you work, then come back 10 min later to see the job oozing down the panel. If I was doing it (and I'm no expert) I'd lay down the colour, wait for it to flash-off, then put down a more dry coat of clear to start with. This powdery coat gives the subsequent layers something to grab onto.

 

Don't be scared of a bit of orange peel. Just put down a couple of extra coats of clear and block it back with some 600. With acrylic, you never get a shiny finish off the gun so you'll be rubbing it all back anyway. Then if you're still keen, you can do a final flowcoat to get it smooth, then wait a month to cut/polish.

[revhead 1,392]

this is wet on wet for my Hayabusa

[clevocortina 1,109]

Hey mcfly sorry about previous reply I made a small error whit tip sizing 1.5 will be fine with acrylic, any smaller and you may find it difficult to apply you clear.

 

Paulson yeah man it would've turned out fine but gloss will be a little affected and if you were to be doing a blend its definatly not something you would want as it will be putting colour right up to the edge

 

Campo I do wet on wet pretty much everyday and it has perfect adhesion and with many systems today with new panels you don't even have to rub them the chemical makup of the new style primers is made to stick to the un prepped e coat. It's all for time and material saving really.

 

With wet on wet you thin the primer out at least double the normal amount so it goes on nice and flat and after its flashed its ready to go.

 

Also if you find you do need to rub the basecoat because you have found defects E.G runs, massive dust lumps, bugs, silicone. just blow it with air or heat gun until you can touch it then rub with 800 wither wet or dry, and then you can keep going with applying base.

[revhead 1,392]

Hey mcfly sorry about previous reply I made a small error whit tip sizing 1.5 will be fine with acrylic, any smaller and you may find it difficult to apply you clear.

 

Paulson yeah man it would've turned out fine but gloss will be a little affected and if you were to be doing a blend its definatly not something you would want as it will be putting colour right up to the edge

 

Campo I do wet on wet pretty much everyday and it has perfect adhesion and with many systems today with new panels you don't even have to rub them the chemical makup of the new style primers is made to stick to the un prepped e coat. It's all for time and material saving really.

 

With wet on wet you thin the primer out at least double the normal amount so it goes on nice and flat and after its flashed its ready to go.

 

Also if you find you do need to rub the basecoat because you have found defects E.G runs, massive dust lumps, bugs, silicone. just blow it with air or heat gun until you can touch it then rub with 800 wither wet or dry, and then you can keep going with applying base.

i think between you and i ,with our base coat ,flash of ,and other words we might be confusing all,lol

[clevocortina 1,109]

Lol yeah I get a bit carried away when people start talking paint since its about the only subject I can speak about with decent knowledge hahaha

 

If you like mcfly I can put up a glossary of terms?

I don't mind ill do it tonight when I get home from work

[SLO247 1,713]

Clevo mate, reccomend me a gun. Non HLVP, gravity, around $1-150, for a small compressor. I'll only be using Acrylic, just straight white panel by panel on my ute for practice before I do my Fairlane.

 

Compressor is only 6-7cfm. I don't need the gun to last forever I just want it to work well.

[clevocortina 1,109]

Get a cheapie from bunnings or eBay there all pretty good when there new and get a 1.8 or there abouts tip size

[SLO247 1,713]

1.8 will cover primer, filler and colour/clear? Is a 1.4 ok?

 

Theres a low pressure medium volume one for $99 on the SCA site. Looks ok to me, has a steel pot.....

 

Would an LVLP one be ok? There are some on ebay.

 

Thanks for the advice.

[revhead 1,392]

try and use gravity fed guns pots guns are painful.

[SLO247 1,713]

Thats what I'm doing, not interested in a suction type.

 

I mean it has a steel paint pot on it. Whatever you want to call it.