BGDAV

never heard of ultra king.. 
noted.. shit = dont buy

E series sedan fit X series sedan
 
E series wagons and utes fit x series wagons utes.
 
I have a ED diff in the ute with a XH steel ute tail shaft.

i know quality when i see it  

i know quality when i see it  

Spot on

Was a quick demo of Big Bertha for BGDAV when he stopped in. That's the cheap burnishing grinder thing I got from ebay.

old tyre is the go-to not fuck the sump

Hi bear, I hope these help. Mine is a 6 cyl c4 xc. The top of the console mount is 20 mm off the top of the tunnel. I’ll get some specific measurements if you like.


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im not a green personally usually , but i like that 

I stumbled upon an old Brake Booster rebuild tutorial thread, over on the Ford Australia Forums,
and thought it well worthy of adding to our Archives...
 
Here's a summary of the rubber components (with pricing), used in the below rebuild -
VH2013 - Reaction Disc - $6.60
VH2015 - Front Seal - $5.41
VH2029 - Rear Seal - $26.40
 
VH2579 - Main Diaphragm - $31.33
VH2580 - Main Diaphragm - $39.60
VH2581 -  Seal - $21.12
VH2582 - Seal -
 
The complete XC/XD/XE brake booster assembly part no. is/was VH395
 
 
For further info, see the following link to another excellent rebuild tutorial we have, created by fellow OzFalcon member 'jca4'.
 
Full credit for the following write-up, goes to Wayne (aka XC GXL on Ford Forums). 🙂
_______________________________________________________________________________________________
 
Some of us live overseas with these beauties and when something goes wrong we either have to spend a truck load on postage (and sometimes extra TAX) or we improvise with what is available to get our cars back on the road.
Well I had a brake booster failure a little while back and fortunately I had a decent spare however I looked into getting a spare sent over and the cost of a reconditioned one including postage was frightening.
I was fortunate enough to meet a bloke in Wollongong before I left in the brake and clutch business as I got some bits and pieces for the XC before I left home.
When the booster failed I rang him and he was kind enough to send me over all of the major parts to recondition an XC/XD/XE brake booster.

Here is an exploded view showing the parts I replaced.





and here are a few photos of the replacement parts









I decided to try to tackle a rebuild although I have never done so before and was a little daunted by it initially like how to spilt it, replacing diaphragms etc, etc.
Well I managed to overhaul 3 that I had which were knackered with success.
So for all of you guys living overseas and those of you who want to overhaul your own booster this is how I did it.
Firstly I made up a jig to enable me to split the booster as the top section needs to be twisted from the lower section and can take a bit of force. The jig looks a little Heath Robinson but it worked a treat for me.







Once the top is split the M20 rod, which incidentally is 500mm long with a 13mm hole 70mm deep drilled into each end to enable the plate to not foul with the Rod and Valve Assy (Part no 2377), is wound back to enable the spring to be detensioned safely. This part is really necessary during reassembly as trying to hold the spring down while trying to locate the top to the bottom is difficult.



Remove the Rod and Valve Assy (2377). This is the one from a 38 year old car and needs a good clean.
This is from a 38 year old XC and was a little worse for wear.




I only used WD40 and wire wool to clean all these parts.
Disassembled.



All that is needed for this is a strip down, clean and reassemble.
Make sure that the little piston is removed and cleaned and the reaction disc (Part No 2414 from drawing and replacement part no VH2013) replaced and that the piston is free to move.
Once this is split the main diaphragm assembly can be removed from the housings.
Again this takes a bit of force as the whole assembly needs to be pushed from the lower seal.
This is how they look once removed. Any wonder the brakes were a little odd!







To remove the pedal to booster assemble simply remove the circlip and the whole rod pushes out.



To remove the diaphragms you will need a small flat blunt screwdriver as the diaphragms are sandwiched between the Valve Body (Part No 2391) and the Diaphragm Plates (Part No’s 2395A, 2395B and 2395C). Take note of the disassemble sequence although the assembly can only go one way when reassembling.



here is the assembly without the diaphragms





Remove the rear seal from the main housing. This is not shown clearly on the Ford exploded view but is replacement part No VH2029.
I then cleaned the whole lot up with wire wool, soapy water and some fine wet and dry.
Replace all the diaphragms (replacement part No’s 2A365B = 2579 and 2A365A = 2588). This requires a little silicone grease around the inner lip of the diaphragm and then just force (using hands only) the diaphragm between the diaphragm plate and the Valve Body. It takes some effort but goes eventually.
Do this for both Diapragms. Make sure that the diaphragm 2A365B (2579) is pushed up around the outer lip on 2395B as this allows the vacuum to be formed when in use.

This is a final assembled unit.



Also when the whole assembly is put back into the main housing make sure that the top diaphragms 2A365A is (2588) outer edge is below the retaining indents to enable a seal between the housing and the diaphragm plate 2395B.
I then just put the whole part assembly back into the jig compressed the top housing and spring and then tapped the top cover around using a soft hammer and the plate that I made to go over the master cylinder mounting studs.
I managed to do one in about 1 hour including cleaning. It is a pretty simple job really if you have the right set up.

If there is anything I didn't describe well please let me know and I'll only be too happy to help where I can.

Wayne

Easier to copy


The change in spine dimensions makes this harder to make by hand, but still doable

surely that tunnel isnt that hard to make ... its a few folds 

try emailing them for a cheaper freight quote, i got a full 3" cowl from jegs for alot cheaper after emailing them 

Been trolling google images just looking at colours and deciding we don't like most of them... Some possibilities are variations of...

Reds seem agreeable

^^^^that may be too bright for me in real life.

She said she likes one of the Ford reds, might be barossa

Because it was similar to this cortina colour (I like it but I'm not doing a candy type colour.. I'm just not that insane) Mazda soul red would be close to it but no way José

we may have a gas tank you can have .. would fit in the back? @deankdx would know

lame who welds on guards now days

Jury is still out on the lower pillar. Guards will come off but they are like the little torana, welded on

While there is orange paint under the bonnet I'm 99% sure this was a white car and not a colour change. It's too consistent for a respray although it has had a blow over at some point because you can see acrylic primer peeking through the side panels.

no dramas at all 
 
its a shit box, but its all fixable (from what we can see) it does have alot of good points, complete as a whole, besides tranny + carb 
 
needs everything touched but meh what 70s car dont, all sills gone, passenger door really fucked, passenger bottom roof is having issues, rear barn door, firewall has slight issues but could be alot worse
 
wil be pretty cool when its done 

its basically a unicorn  

Whatever I do it won't be manual or turbo. I'd like an overdrive auto but will deal with all that later. I might go straight LPG too.

As BGDAV said, the body is as stuffed as any other 70s car but the back half isn't bad. It needs big surgery in the sills and windscreen pillars at very least. Roof gutter is bad on one side, better on other. Cargo floor is practically mint and the car seems to be complete an was looked after at some point as a work vehicle judging by the shadow of a sign on back window.

no dramas at all 
 
its a shit box, but its all fixable (from what we can see) it does have alot of good points, complete as a whole, besides tranny + carb 
 
needs everything touched but meh what 70s car dont, all sills gone, passenger door really fucked, passenger bottom roof is having issues, rear barn door, firewall has slight issues but could be alot worse
 
wil be pretty cool when its done 

Well we're off to a whirlwind start... What was it, three days ago? Mrs spots a rusty escort panelvan advertised on ebay at Harvey's Wrecker in Langwarren (about half hour from home). The listing started at a dollar and had a few bids bringing it up to $200. I've looked at esky vans for years as a yeah I wouldn't mind one of those one day.. Usually too expensive for what they are, this was just too cheap and tempting. OK it's rusty but I'd make my money back in a heartbeat if it was cactus by selling the front grill. I ummed and ahhed over it especially when it didn't climb in the last few hours. We talked it up and down and just decided it was too cheap to not try for it. A stupid low bid for a random number that I could manage (really can't afford it but after selling the spot welder this was kinda free money) and to our shock, it's ours!!! Gotta be the cheapest one around at $327 for an almost complete car. All that seems to be missing is the manual gearbox and tailshaft.
 
BGDAV gave me a huge help by providing the trailer and second pair of hands to pick it up today. The worker said to me that it should have gone for much more but someone stuffed up with the price (assuming they forgot the reserve) and deal is done. They wanted 500 at least for it, I thought it would have been more than that at auction but there we go.
 
A few photos at the yard..

Offload was complicated by no keys to unlock the steering so dolly wheels were involved and the winch to help out.

This will be a slow project guys, so don't get too excited as I don't have any free time just yet. Only plan so far is to fix the shell and probably install an auto box, maybe update the engine in the process for daily use. I will use this in the Metalworking tutorials to teach how to do everything you need to know.

could get a o2 wideband and tune your self would cost alot less i think 

Gday Greg, 
if you have a cleveland 302(more than likely is) then the journals are the same .. windsor is another story i know next to nothing on them.
with such low compression, it may have 351 heads fitted?(these were open chamber)  and just fitting closed chamber will get it back to "normal" probably.
personally with how much it costs to freshen an engine, and the fact you are selling, you may be better off buying a good running secondhand 351 

take a pic of the engine, if you use your mobile phone, get the tapatalk app, you can upload directly with it very easy.
with a photo of the engine we can know if it's a winsor or clevo, then you'll get a better idea of direction. 


 
@BGDAV he's got your bullbar(similar at least)

Can go 454 on my iron eagle block 
 
They have different ranges for dart 
 
Normal entry level block think handles 1k hp? 
 
Iron eagle 1500 
 
Next level is billet 
 
All depends on your budget
 
Time.you find a standard good block ud be in it close to a after market block and not be as strong