2redrovers

I started getting the engine prepped ready to fire up, but I have hit a snag. 
 
I did all the valve clearances, fitted thermostat and housing, fitted the heater outlet fitting, picked up a new PCV and installed exhaust studs in the head. 
 
I went to fit the extractors, and they don’t fit with the gearbox mount in the new location. The way they are shaped, they hit the rear crossmember now. 

They need a pin hole welded up anyway, and they are old. I also noticed that my exhaust guy, when he extended them backwards, he stepped the outlet down from 2” to 1.75”, which is annoying because going back to 2” for the 1600 isn’t really going to be possible now. 
So, i think I will replace them and the entire exhaust, start from fresh with it all. 
 
For the purposes of firing the engine up at home, I will be able to just remove the rear crossmember for now to make it work, but none of it will work in the car  
 
Well there’s your problem…
 

 

 

 
So there are a couple of factors here that could be causing my issues. 
1st possible and most likely is that the crossmember is now further back where the extractor extension is closer to the middle of the car. 
2nd is that the extractors are now higher. Because the 1600 block is about an inch taller, it means everything sits higher. Its possible the extractors used to see under the crossmember, whereas now they sit next to it.
 
 
I have this soaking in petrol over night. The amount of oil and s*** built up inside is bad. So going to clean it out before using it on the engine. I will install a catch can also between this and the engine
 


all in the details. Nice stainless bolts for the rocker cover 
 


new heater outlet. I had to cut the barb fitting shorter because it was too long to screw in while the water pump is fitted to the engine. 
 


Valve clearance done, studs installed, rocker cover on, thermostat on. Just need manifolds, dizzy and PCV and she’s ready to fire up 
 

That's full farmer spec there Thom, surprised you didn't stick-weld some star pickets or tie it off with fence wire or involve a tree stump somehow

Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

haha ok guys this sounds like fun. 
 
I have to get the distributor regraphed, then I might have a crank at firing it up. 
 
It would be nice to get it running and know that its going to be ok before i put it in, then find out that it isn't too good lol. Remember, I haven't rebuild the bottom end, nor have i heard it running, but I have had it cranking over when i did the compression test before i freshened it up. 

Agreed I've fired up engines in way sketchier situations last one I did i fired up my xflow balanced on bricks, radiator hoses are usually stiff enough to hold a radiator in place, I have cable tied a radiator to a chair once to stop it moving

it's not going anywhere sitting on the cross member as pictured. 
My Dad used to just shove a garden hose with half a tennis ball type thing to seal it, in the lower radiator hose and turn the tap on and have a bit of similar from the top hose away from the fan(splashy splash not on the engine)
depends how long you are going to run it for i guess(Most of the one's Dad ran had been sitting under the bench in the shed for 10yrs plus)
 

Well the wrinkle paint definitely went wrinkly over night  
 
Im super wrapped with the way it turned out. Now it just needs a sneaky "1300HC" sticker put on it to disguise the fact its a 1600
 

 
I fitted the head today, and all the rocker gear. hopefully its on for good. 
 

 
I am really happy with the way this has come up. I haven't bolted the rocker cover down yet, because i decided the original bolts aren't pretty enough haha. so I will be fitting stainless button head allen keys. 
 

 
The engine is very close to being able to be fired up. and although that was never the intention until the car was back here from the panel shop, I am tempted to plumb it up and fire the engine up here in the stand. I have the full exhaust system so i can make it relatively quiet. I just need to bolt the manifolds on, dizzy, and plumb up the cooling system and i could run it. it is very tempting. I will be giving the idea some thought and I may give it a shot if it seems easy enough. 

I spent today sniffing paint fumes again 🤪
 
*disclosure; I did have a mask on* 
 
I managed to get the head and rocker cover painted, so I can hopefully bolt it on tomorrow. 
 

 
I went with wrinkle black on the rocker cover. This was after just 2 hours drying, it does say it takes 24 hours to set hard. Im hoping its a little more wrinkly than this, but if not, im not upset. this will only be on there temporarily anyway. I will eventually fit an alloy rocker cover
 

 
Just sitting there to dry over night. Pretty happy with the way its come up. I wasn't sure how the painted silver head would look, but I think its a nice contrast to the black. 
 

If it wasn't so expensive, I'd suggest buying an original panel from the states and call the thing a Yankee Tudor

That's what I was thinking too, sure you can get a bit of garden art and do some welding but it has to be a two door or its useless.

If it wasn't so expensive, I'd suggest buying an original panel from the states and call the thing a Yankee Tudor

Although I guess the next question the idiots would ask is American number = import papers

It should be as simple as going to the cops with proof of purchase and sellers details, let them see the shell as it is and issue a police number for it. It's history then begins with your purchase and goes on from there. I realise you are in nanny central and life isn't that simple, but doing it that way you aren't trying to hide what it is or call it something it's not. What's the difference between that and a replica that has no history or id?

Essentially in Australia, the identity of a vehicle is in the chassis. That's why when you create a hot rod from your Fargo truck and stick it on a hq ute chassis to get it low and loud, it is then registered as a rebodied hq ute. Technically you replaced every panel of the ute with "new" stuff but the law still sees it as a hq for paperwork reasons.

Here's a scenario that might help you find out... Have a conversation with the authorities about a project that you are PLANNING to buy. It's a ford hard top that's had some parts cut out to fix other cars but it's mostly intact and is worth saving /rebuilding. Now the issue is, the radiator support panel has been removed at some stage and now the shell has no id numbers. because they're not available new, if I buy a second hand panel which will have another number stamped on it from the donor car, how will the car be identified and can it be registered?

See what that gets for a response and if it's good news, unpick your panel and swap it out.

Essentially in Australia, the identity of a vehicle is in the chassis. That's why when you create a hot rod from your Fargo truck and stick it on a hq ute chassis to get it low and loud, it is then registered as a rebodied hq ute. Technically you replaced every panel of the ute with "new" stuff but the law still sees it as a hq for paperwork reasons.

Here's a scenario that might help you find out... Have a conversation with the authorities about a project that you are PLANNING to buy. It's a ford hard top that's had some parts cut out to fix other cars but it's mostly intact and is worth saving /rebuilding. Now the issue is, the radiator support panel has been removed at some stage and now the shell has no id numbers. because they're not available new, if I buy a second hand panel which will have another number stamped on it from the donor car, how will the car be identified and can it be registered?

See what that gets for a response and if it's good news, unpick your panel and swap it out.

Essentially in Australia, the identity of a vehicle is in the chassis. That's why when you create a hot rod from your Fargo truck and stick it on a hq ute chassis to get it low and loud, it is then registered as a rebodied hq ute. Technically you replaced every panel of the ute with "new" stuff but the law still sees it as a hq for paperwork reasons.

Here's a scenario that might help you find out... Have a conversation with the authorities about a project that you are PLANNING to buy. It's a ford hard top that's had some parts cut out to fix other cars but it's mostly intact and is worth saving /rebuilding. Now the issue is, the radiator support panel has been removed at some stage and now the shell has no id numbers. because they're not available new, if I buy a second hand panel which will have another number stamped on it from the donor car, how will the car be identified and can it be registered?

See what that gets for a response and if it's good news, unpick your panel and swap it out.

Essentially in Australia, the identity of a vehicle is in the chassis. That's why when you create a hot rod from your Fargo truck and stick it on a hq ute chassis to get it low and loud, it is then registered as a rebodied hq ute. Technically you replaced every panel of the ute with "new" stuff but the law still sees it as a hq for paperwork reasons.

Here's a scenario that might help you find out... Have a conversation with the authorities about a project that you are PLANNING to buy. It's a ford hard top that's had some parts cut out to fix other cars but it's mostly intact and is worth saving /rebuilding. Now the issue is, the radiator support panel has been removed at some stage and now the shell has no id numbers. because they're not available new, if I buy a second hand panel which will have another number stamped on it from the donor car, how will the car be identified and can it be registered?

See what that gets for a response and if it's good news, unpick your panel and swap it out.

I don't recommend installing it like that... The shifter angle would really kill your wrist

Yeah he does awesome work. 
 
I am considering asking him if he is willing to do XF/ZL/FE door switches when I see him next. 
 
I still have 1 more to give him, because for some reason i left it in the car. its the dash light dimmer wheel/switch. so ill have to get him to that at a later date. 

just a small detail, but a bit of joy in this shitty lockdown, 
 
My switches for the Escort have been restored by a fellow RSOCV club member. this will just finish the interior off. 
 
 

Many thanks mate

I haven't done it myself (should try some time just so I know first hand) but ABS plastic can be glued with acetone. Look at the inside of the bar, should be marked somewhere saying what plastic it is but I'm pretty sure it will be ABS. From what I have read, it will give you one of the stronger bonds especially if you can add a bit of reinforcement to the joint. Alternatively, a soldering iron can be used to weld it back together. I used to trim a small strip off the back somewhere unseen to use as filler material to help join everything together.

Unfortunately those tabs are fragile and there's a risk it will break again down the track. We used to use the fibreglass tape used for repairing plasterwork with a special plastic glue to give some bulk to the repair and hold it together, minimising the fractures afterwards.

I just hope its a bit smoother and quieter when I grease it haha. Its currently dry. 

These shifters are renown for being rattly when not under load, as in cruising in gear. Someone from the car club said to fit it, use an old steering rack boot, cut it down, it fits perfect over the stick, and cable tie both ends. 
You can see at the bottom of the shifter housing there is a recess for a cable tie. just needs the boot. 

i think that's not too far off what a short shift for T5 is like 
the long gear stick helps making it slightly further apart

Seeing as I have a fancy camera now that can do high quality video, I figured id set this up and put this little clip together. 
Gives you guys an idea how "short" the shifter makes the gear changes on the Type 9.. 
 
 

I win! 
 
On Tuesday, I met with a club member from RSCOV who had a "dead" Type9 in his workshop, out of his rally car. He gave me the parts I needed to get mine fixed. Ive ordered a new set from Germany, and have offered to give him them when they arrive, in exchange for the ones he gave me. 
The funny part is, he was also having an issue with his recently rebuilt Type9, not getting into 5th gear, and was going from his meeting with me, back to the workshop that rebuilt the box to have his looked at. Turned out he ALSO was having issues with exploding synchros. they pulled it down, and similar deal, part of the synchro had failed, and the blocker bars had gone walking. Right after he gave me his spare ones. Thankfully they were found inside his extension housing, and were all useable, so he didn't need the spares he just gave me. 
 
Once I got the synchro mechanism back together, it took me probably half an hour to get the gearbox back together. I worked out what caused me to have issues last week. basically the selector rod was rotated off his home position, so it didn't locate in the extension housing properly. that is why i pulled it apart again last week, that is why i accidentally popped the synchro apart, that is why it broke. 
 

 
The engine and box are now together. The gearbox shifts like a dream, although like i said the other day, very close gear changes, but I am super excited about this. 
Still waiting on the head to come back though...
I just have a few small things to do on the box to finish it off...
- replace the temporary shifter bolts with proper length units with washers (and grease the shifter mechanism inside) 
- transfer the reverse light switch from the 4 speed box over
- pull the speedo cogs out of the two 4 speeds i have and count the teeth and decide which to run in the 5 speed.