2redrovers

i've never used the grinder wire wheels but @2redrovers probably has(not sure how aggressive/overkill they'd be there.
 
i'm a bit bodgy, most of My repairs are good for 12 months to 5yrs(usually as long as i keep a car.. mainly because i've seen rust come back in professional repaired cars i've bought in similar time, so i care a lot less for My work, just redo it again) 
 
so for me, knowing the rest is also about to fall off, i'd be just patching it asap, in a quick and easy repair.  
wire wheel the loose rust off, rust converter.. (i like the ones you brush on after its' been wet with water, then turns black) then spray some primer filler, sand with 400 for a reasonable finish on the white paint.  
 
i think at some point you'll get to clean metal with the wire wheel. if so, stop there. but if you end up wire wheeling the whole panel looking for shiny metal it's probably not a bad thing, depends how much work you want to do RIGHT NOW.. 

Apparently the one doing the rounds of web with ls heads was modified with a hacksaw and "welded" with epoxy.

Yes we are lucky. 
but the shed too is a project in itself. 
currently it is not water tight, so i won’t be parking any cars in there. 
there is no spouting on it, so water runs off the roof and straight in above the sliding doors and pulls on the floor of the shed. 
also isnt the most secure door on the laneway side. 
so for the time being the wagon is at my parent’s place until the shed is ready. 
same with the Escort, i won’t bring it here until i know the shed is good to go 

It is a shame. 
We stumbled across the original title to the property yesterday morning, from when it was a vacant lot. signed back back in 1932. so its about 90 years old. We also have the original banking book for the guy who built the house, the original title holder. we found the book under the old carpet when we started the renos. 
 
As for the shed, it does indeed have a good shed  
 
We have a laneway behind us. the shed runs along the back boundary, and has sliding door access from the driveway, then offset on the opposing side has a sliding door out to the laneway. so I can park the wagon and escort side by side, across the width of the shed. one from the drive, and one from the laneway. 
The shed internally is about 5.2m W x 7.8m L, and clearance is about 2.2m under the doors. the steel roof trusses are lower, but they are between the door access. that means I can fit my Land Rover Discovery straight in from either side too, if i need to work on that. 

On the driveway side of the shed, there is also a 1.5 car sized carport. long enough to get my Disco and about half of Elise's Corolla under. 

Pictures of sold engine

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Nah sorry only have my own 400 they come in dribs n draws very hard to find but I have found 5 in the last year

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Are you on facebook? Someone looking to buy a 400

https://m.facebook.com/groups/197562983773533/permalink/1739457599584056/

Are you on facebook? Someone looking to buy a 400

https://m.facebook.com/groups/197562983773533/permalink/1739457599584056/

Standard aussie borg warner diff

Ta daaa

... Yeah... I don't know what I'm looking at...

Ta daaa

... Yeah... I don't know what I'm looking at...

I don't know the difference but you got me curious about what my van has under it.... Besides more rust...

There you go. 
there isn’t many early Mk1s in Australia. 
both of mine have been 1972 and this one is 1975. So both BW diffs. 
 
on the flip side, the good thing about BW coming on board is we got the Type E 4 speed (single rail) fitted to our cars from 1100 upwards, but the UK only got them in GTs and upwards. Their standard boxes did not have removable bell housings. So our Type E boxes are quite desirable to the UK folk because they are rare over there 

I just grabbed my Escort parts book, dated 3/72.
It seems that all MK1 until August 1971 had English axles, then August onwards, most had Borg Warner.
Of the 3 MK1 2 doors that I have currently, 2 are 1970 build with English axles, and 1 1974 with a BW.
The 1972 car I had years ago had a BW, but I replaced it with a 4.125 ratio English out of a MK1 van.
The 1975 MK1 van I have now  has an English axle, but that now seems likely it has been replaced at some time.
 
 

Haha my work colleague did some time up in the mines over there, says that WA is 3 hours and 30 years behind the eastern states

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Oh look the standard brakes were up the task once upon a time. 
And I know Ive "over braked" it now. 
but nowadays parts are hard to get for the P16 brakes, and expensive compared to what I paid for this entire brake upgrade kit. the discs alone new, are more than 1/3 of the cost of the entire brand new brake upgrade. 
 
 The way i see it, i would always rather have plenty in reserve than on the limit. 
 
As i said above, it will get driven spiritedly on plenty of twist roads. We are not far from plenty of mountain roads, big hills. I have previously run the car out of brakes on those roads. 
 
I have always wanted to get the car on the track, just to stretch its legs legally. Ive always been hesitant because of killing the 1300 haha. 
 
So, I am happy with the brakes. 
 
As for the race, you will have to drive to Melbourne first. Your premier will never let us in, so you can come here instead 🤣 

Ok cool, so about 110hp, same as a stock Pinto.
I had a MK1 with stock brakes and 200hp pinto. The stock brakes with better pads are more than up to the job.
Compression braking with the motor into corners will help with saving the brakes.

Wanna race after were done???? Hehehe

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I mentioned a while back.
If you have increased the handling of the car, and you drive it to suit, you will use more brake capacity, even though you have not increased the power of the vehicle.

Yep thats my feeling too. 
Also, this car will get driven in the hills. on the twisty roads. 

Before lockdown, a few of us would get together in the Escort, a classic Mini, a twin cam AE92 Corolla, and go for drives up over the Reefton Spur, up Mt Baw Baw. places where the brakes get well used. 

I mean nearly double HP of the 1300 
 
The 1300 would have been sitting around 40-45kw. On paper with the engine specs of my 1600 (1660 actual capacity) it should be producing between 70 and 80kw at the crank. 
 
Yeah I will not lie, everyone ive spoken to in the club said I have over braked the car for street use, but it will be nice for the odd track day, or hillclimb event that the car club runs every year, which ive never run in because too scared, to know that i have ample brakes. 

I did have a bit of a win today finally. 
 
I cleaned up and restored my reverse lights. 
 
New lenses, new lens seals, polished the frames, the reflectors and the housings. Cleaned the rear rubber gasket. 
 

 

 

 
 

I stand corrected. 
 
I have some good news. 
 
The front struts and hubs do not need to be 2L. They can be any Mk2. Fingers, you were right. 
 
2L struts are larger diameter, 51mm, whereas all other struts are 48mm, same as my current struts. 
So i will be able to transfer over all my components, springs, shocks, bump stops. only thing i have to change is my bearings and tie rod ends. 
 
So the bill to fix this will be a lot less than first expected

The 400 is here don't no the vintage yet but I'm on a wicket with the truck driver that is finding them all over the place

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Might know where a *ahem* good one is.....

... Crap, i wasn't supposed to laugh when I said that was I...

enough good parts left over for a stock Mk1 panel van project 😜