Valvebouncer

That's hard for me because half the things you just said I wouldn't have a clue on what they are. I'm not mechanically minded so going to places like a swap meet will be to hard for me. Not wanting to make power any more for the clevo I have decided on a lopey cam, refurbish the carby, new exhaust system and take it to get dyno tuned.

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Shop around, a lot you could get second hand if your patient. What I described there is more of an older build from when I was playing with Cleveland’s 15 years ago. Try swap meets, you get some good buys at them.

I see only one way around this. Build an angry as hell clevo. 850dp on a single plane high rise, chi heads, crane f260/f246 solid cam, good set of forged pistons, 10.5-11:1 comp, 6 inch rods, fully balanced with pacemakers 4 into 1 with dual 3 inch collectors twin pipes with 1 magnaflow muffler in each dumped at the diff. 3500 stall c4, 3.89:1 diff. Spray fish oil on the body. Done

I see only one way around this. Build an angry as hell clevo. 850dp on a single plane high rise, chi heads, crane f260/f246 solid cam, good set of forged pistons, 10.5-11:1 comp, 6 inch rods, fully balanced with pacemakers 4 into 1 with dual 3 inch collectors twin pipes with 1 magnaflow muffler in each dumped at the diff. 3500 stall c4, 3.89:1 diff. Spray fish oil on the body. Done

sounds good, just keeping wax on the paint as is will keep it fine. My gemini wagon and sedan both have crows feet, etc and haven't got any worse since i've waxed them twice a year(i want to enjoy driving them, not risking taking them off the road to paint them... takes too long) 
 
sounds like a good plan to Me though. 
 
My XE ghia i removed all the side moulds etc. wonder what happened to that car after i sold it
 

.......or this..?
 
 

Speaking of serpentine belts, this may help some people

Speaking of serpentine belts, this may help some people

Completely off topic to my original post lol, but anyway
 
From my experience with BA/BF the T5 and T56 share the same front bolt pattern.  If you blow the T5 replace it with the T56 it should be an almost direct replacement.  Pretty hard to blow a T56, I'm running a factory unit behind my 700HP XR6 Turbo and it has a wall of torque from 3000 - 7000rpm.
 
Ben

Mate I literally shut my garage & walked away from this car a couple of months ago because I couldn’t be bothered with it.

If only I knew a bash with a hammer would solve it engine mounts bolted up & she slotted into place nicely!!!


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Also, a T5 behind a 351 would be a time bomb. They're marginal even behind a 302. It's torque that kills a gearbox, not horsepower.

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Speaking of serpentine belts, this may help some people

my persistance has payed off on saturday im going to fetch a 3fifty1 w engine for a $100 in pieces minus cam,shes a roller block and std bore,but it sounds too good to be true imo,anyway i will sus it out when i get there.he also has other roller complete engines,i wont come home empty ,im dying to get my hands on one.

I have a copy of the Ford F-truck spare parts manual...
It's over 5,000pages long.
Ford had so many small variations and options, within the one family of vehicles, it's mind boggling.
There are 7-8 engine options alone!

On top of that, the ones which came to Australia, seem to have small idiosyncrasies which vary from the US versions.
 
Our F-trucks are about 90% the same, but Ford mixed and matched small parts to suit our market -
some suspension bushes, engine accessory parts and so on.
(not even counting the RHD dash configuration, with Falcon steering column)
 
It's extremely time consuming, piecing the puzzle together - working out the correct parts to get.
 
I've easily spent over 4hrs, attempting to work out the correct timing cover/water pump, and which bolts go in which locations.
I still need to review the bolts again, before ordering anything.
 
They seem to use part Mustang, part Thunderbird, part something else - there are no 'off the shelf' bolt kits to suit the non-serpentine, clockwise water pump, 302 EFI Windsor f-truck timing covers.
 
From the parts manual - the non-serpentine 302 EFI's, use 7 different length bolts in varying quantities, on the pump/timing cover alone.

Must be one of the last of the early firing order engines

Here's some pics, of a NOS Windsor EFI Crate motor

The hard part is finding pipes that aren’t corroded as they don’t make them any more. Do the headgasket when the motor is out, fit a multi layer steel (mls) AU spec gasket and new head bolts. Don’t forget there is a Welsh plug hidden behind the flywheel in the block too.

pretty much anyone that posts anything here know's what they are talking about.. sometimes there's a slip up of misinformation .. put that down to... i forget what i was going to say... 

Bypass module fixes smartlock forever and ever. Don’t worry Dean, you’ll get used to technology

All good guys here! Dean is a top bloke and wealth of knowledge

Well there's going to be a good 250 unleaded x-flow with 3-speed slush box up for sale soon for you old tech guys
 
and it's good to see this forum is sticking with being Aussie ... nothing more Aussie then a little slandering your mates and Falcon's

Bypass module fixes smartlock forever and ever. Don’t worry Dean, you’ll get used to technology

yeah one thing you'll learn by doing this conversion is EVERYTHING.. 
i've had heaps of falcons over the last 25yrs and everything i learned was by fixing them(same for the gemini pretty much) 
 
reco weber carby if staying petrol for $500 will probably never need touching ever again, i had dual fuel 99% of the time and no carby likes running on gas and ever working on petrol again properly. efi seems a bit more forgiving on dual fuel. 

biggest issue i have with the ohc engines in XG is not being able to fit your hands anywhere to undo anything.. (crossflow, starter removed in 3mins.. alternator 5mins. etc..) 
also not a fan of the smart lock shut down on these modern fords(XG is modern for Me)
 
 

Everyone differs in their opinions. I differ from Dean, I prefer the ohc over a crossflow ( Dean also likes Gemini’s so we just pretend to like him and be interested in his car ). Do what you want.
I’m telling now that if that motor needs Welsh plugs it’ll need more, like water pump, head gasket and the metal pipes that run around the motor will be corroded too. It’ll be a big job to change it all over. Like Dean said, airbox mounts, I’m not sure on the radiator mounting. You can remove the entire dash from the firewall and just put it straight into the Xf and switch the heater box too, the wiring is different.

The hard part is finding pipes that aren’t corroded as they don’t make them any more. Do the headgasket when the motor is out, fit a multi layer steel (mls) AU spec gasket and new head bolts. Don’t forget there is a Welsh plug hidden behind the flywheel in the block too.