XPT

Hmmm...... would have said coil packs. Maybe Ignition module.? Fuel filter been changed?
 

Yep it was the coil pack. Thanks for the tip Thom it was piss easy to do it from the top using a few extensions and removing the airbox apart from constantly burning myself on the coolant pipe lol. I had to get it done before it started pissing down. So no time to let it cool. Thanks a lot for your input guys. Cheers

Yep it was the coil pack. Thanks for the tip Thom it was piss easy to do it from the top using a few extensions and removing the airbox apart from constantly burning myself on the coolant pipe lol. I had to get it done before it started pissing down. So no time to let it cool. Thanks a lot for your input guys. Cheers

Yep it was the coil pack. Thanks for the tip Thom it was piss easy to do it from the top using a few extensions and removing the airbox apart from constantly burning myself on the coolant pipe lol. I had to get it done before it started pissing down. So no time to let it cool. Thanks a lot for your input guys. Cheers

Yep it was the coil pack. Thanks for the tip Thom it was piss easy to do it from the top using a few extensions and removing the airbox apart from constantly burning myself on the coolant pipe lol. I had to get it done before it started pissing down. So no time to let it cool. Thanks a lot for your input guys. Cheers

Burnout vid or we don't believe you

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Yeah the reach-around is not a pleasant experience

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It you have a bunch of extensions and pull the airbox out you can change the coil pack from the top, easier than trying to do it reaching over the engine mount

i was always told coils either work or they don't.. however i've had over the last 25 yrs  at least 5 counts (mates cars included) where they will play up when warm etc..
so i'd agree with Bear.. coil pack (or plugs) but i haven't ever had any experience with coil pack cars..but would assume the same applies.
it's not the only thing it could be, but just don't rule out the coils as a works or doesn't reason..

Well there you go. Yep, it's a lot easier to have one ecu to tune and add corrections for temp and atmospheric conditions etc.
Spool imports do H beam 200 rod and forged piston packages with either Ross or CP pistons, $1800 and $2200 respectively.
With only moderate power goals and low revs a set of prepped stock 250 rods with ARPs and a set of hypereutectics like Hypatec should be fine.

It was like a small sensor box that ran a line from the intake, and it served as a fuel cut for over boost and also operated the factory boost gauge, so once the exhaust was opened up the waste gate could control it, common problem on those, and yeah would just cut fuel, you could unplug it and that solved the problem and it would boost hard - probably only 10psi, but the gauge didn't work. So I made up a t piece with this little bleed valve.


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Yeah Iv played with the boost tee and worked out a way around the 10 psi but will probably stay under 10 or around 10 due to the basically stock bottom end. It's pretty easy I just put a one way emission purge valve on the line to the map sensor. I put it all together with bits and pieces I had laying around and parts of my n/a engine. I've upgraded the injectors, using a quality fpr, msd street fire and a bosch 044 pump.

I once had a Series 4 Rx7 (18 years ago) that had a boost cut, only discovered it when I fitted a 3 inch exhaust, it cut fuel once above 7psi, made a little valve thing that bled off pressure, back then didn't think about extra fuel to compensate for additional boost, went hard though.


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Iv just built one that sounds very similar to what ur going to do. I used standard crank and rod (arp rod bolts) with Mahle 28cc pistons, .020 over and zero decked. Standard unmarked efi head with valve springs, rollers and an old na cam I had laying around(222@.050 .510 lift 108lsa).
i got a gt3582 of a territory turbo super cheap and made up myself a split pulse log manifold and internal wastegate dump pipe
i found some info on fitting a e-series ecu and efi setup into a xflow and went down that path. Using a j3 chip in a EL ecu with generic tune ATM And i can't complain one bit. Fires up first go when dead cold, goes super good and runs smooth. I plan to tune it myself with a data logger just haven't got around to it as the generic tune is pretty good and fat ATM.
havent had it on a dyno or know a power figure but power curve seems similar to xelistys yellow xe. Running 7psi it will pull to 5 but starts to fall flat around 4500. I dropped the diff gears from 3.7 to 3.23 and might even try 2.92. Mines in a corty and will light the rear tyres easy but can cruise around off boost all day long.

Thanks for the good info, I'm really aiming for a mild range motor very similar to Xelisty's, his is cranking 300rwhp just under 4000rpm, not sure of the boost level though. I'm thinking of starting at about 8 psi and going from there, it should double it's factory power on that boost level.
 
I'm after a car that is fun to drive, can give you a bit of a fright and take to the track for some fun.
 
 
 
 
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Well there you go. Yep, it's a lot easier to have one ecu to tune and add corrections for temp and atmospheric conditions etc.
Spool imports do H beam 200 rod and forged piston packages with either Ross or CP pistons, $1800 and $2200 respectively.
With only moderate power goals and low revs a set of prepped stock 250 rods with ARPs and a set of hypereutectics like Hypatec should be fine.

Microtech still do a fuel only ecu, it's listed at about $895, I thought it would be easier to just get the fuel and ignition system to control the lot.

Also need to start planning an engine rebuild as well.







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He's running a Microtech, so that will take care of ignition timing and rev limiting. The 6A is just there for cdi so a 6AL or 6AL programmable aren't needed.

Yeah I don't think Microtech even make a fuel only ecu anymore. The LT10-C has 4 ignition and 4 injector outputs. So 1 ignition output used and 3 injector outputs running pairs in group fire. The  only problem with this is that you can only run high impedance injectors if paired on one driver which limits you if you're going for big power with e85 etc. I think the biggest high impedance injectors you can get are Siemens deka 80lb(875cc) injectors. 

Yeah I don't think Microtech even make a fuel only ecu anymore. The LT10-C has 4 ignition and 4 injector outputs. So 1 ignition output used and 3 injector outputs running pairs in group fire. The  only problem with this is that you can only run high impedance injectors if paired on one driver which limits you if you're going for big power with e85 etc. I think the biggest high impedance injectors you can get are Siemens deka 80lb(875cc) injectors. 

So I would go a gt3582r 1.06ar turbine housing BA-BF spec with an internal gate as they are T3 flanged and great match for a 250. There's a mob in QLD who do good quality turbos at a reasonable price called Proboost. They're a lot cheaper than a garrett bit still good quality, they have quite a few fast cars running their turbos, check them out on FB https://www.facebook.com/proboostperformanceparts/.
The reason I ask about the dump pipe is that you can get them in XR6 5 bolt internal gate, 4 bolt and V band (for external gate)
So I guess you're going a TFI dizzy, I'd also run a MSD 6A or another quality cdi to avoid ignition breakdown under boost.

Shit, at first glance I thought the econoguage was a tacho. 6K from cold lol

Shit, at first glance I thought the econoguage was a tacho. 6K from cold lol

Shit, at first glance I thought the econoguage was a tacho. 6K from cold lol

Shit, at first glance I thought the econoguage was a tacho. 6K from cold lol