XPT

Here's a CAD Alloy XFlow header flange for anyone who wants to make their own manifold. I've got it at 12mm thick for turbo manifolds. I've also got a dxf file to send directly to laser cutters to save coin having it formatted. PM me and I can email it.

 
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Sure, pm your email address
 
 
 
 

All this nasty talk makes me want a 253

So I fucked up with assembly....

Installed the box, had to jack the engine up and tilt it sideways to get it past the extractors. Hooked everything up, started the engine, then my boy looked under it and said "daddy there's blood coming out"...

Looked under, it's coming out of the sector shaft. I'd put the shaft pressure seal (the one above the Pitman Arm) in backwards, after deliberating on which way to do it. I have no exploded view or instructions and couldn't remember how it came out. I guess I had a 50% chance and I lost.

I managed to pop the arm off, push the shaft up (after taking the top plate out) dig out the dust seal, remove the circlip and seal all with the box in place, which saved a shitload of work pissfarting around with jacking up the engine again, etc.

The seal actually goes in with the "cup" section facing upwards toward the pressure side, with the oil pressure forcing the inner and outer lips to seal on their respective surfaces.



The dust seal goes in backwards to the way a normal seal goes in: the lip goes facing inwards. If you put it in like you would normally with say an axle seal, the lip will run on the splines.



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The sector shaft seals go in like this, but the last one, a dust seal, goes in smooth side down. If you put it in the other way, the lip runs on the splines.

Pitman Arm pivot: it's not a ball joint but a straight pin that runs in a nylon bush encased in a tapered rubber outer bush. You open up the peened edge around the joint and push the pivot out the bottom.

This pivot was pretty corroded so I gave it a linish, cut a slot down the nylon bush (so it collapses down and takes up the slack) and re-assembled the lot. I drilled and tapped for a 6mm grease nipple in a section that I reckon wouldn't take much load. The problem with this joint is that it faces upwards and collects water with no outlet, so it chops out due to corrosion. If it was greasable from the word go, it would never wear.

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I made a seal installer:



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So here's that sector shaft I mentioned. This is the stuffed one that had a seized roller. I found out why when I stripped it..... The sides of the wheel that runs on the thrust races had indents in it from the needle rollers. This thing has copped a big hit at some point and damaged the Torrington race.

Roller:

Retainer:


Here's how the roller and retainer sit in the shaft:


And the worm adjuster:


And thanks to@gregaust for the heads-up, this is how the top seal comes out, it pushes down through the housing quite easily with a socket. The needle race and bearing holder come out the bottom together. It would be really easy to mistakenly try and knock the seal out through the top, you wouldn't see that tiny lip under a bit of grime, the protrusion would only be about 10 thou.

Socket:


Seal and bearing holder:

It's hard to see in that shot but the holder has two notches cast into it to allow the oil to get past from the reaction valve (in the worm shaft) back to the return port in the housing. With this in mind, the holder effectively forms part of the valving, so I assume should be treated with care so as to not damage it.

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Yeah ditto everything above. I had a Cortina with an aftermarket 2 barrel manifold, which had no water jacket. It was an absolute pig in winter, barely idled due to the base of the manifold cooling so much from fuel vapourisation, that it would ice up. That's why you have that water jacket.

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Another old Melbourne XF Turbo originally built in the early 00's. Has hemi rods also.

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Crossflow powered cars first and third in the 2019 Queensland Modified Sedan Title. 
 
Mighty Clarko's Performance XE came home first, FG Falcon 2nd and Shallcross Cortina 3rd. FORD podium  lock out.  Yahoo. 
 
Long live the mighty crossflow. 
 

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Bloody good feeling. No bullshit performance here.


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Another old Melbourne XF Turbo originally built in the early 00's. Has hemi rods also.

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About $1200NZD +GST for a Quick fuel 650cfm blow through ........ Which is not very appealing.
 
Think I'll do some more homework on converting a double pumper before making the choice.

Sounds like it's doable for anyone who can hold a drill straight or glue shit up

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Another old Melbourne XF Turbo originally built in the early 00's. Has hemi rods also.

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Another old Melbourne XF Turbo originally built in the early 00's. Has hemi rods also.

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https://www.spoolimports.com/ford-250-xflow-with-200-rod-ross-racing-forged-piston
 
 
 
 
 
Ross aren't the best forgies available but would most likely do the job for you
 
 

Make your mind up!! 300RWHP aspo will cost serious dollars and in no way will you then be able to take that engine and add boost. If you think you can - your dreaming. Pure and simple. 
 
If you want boost, build it for boost straight away.  I have many customers who run boost and run fast reliable times with near stock components.  They have a good combination of parts, good tune and it works. 
 
You need to make up your mind and stick to the plan or your in for a world of hurt. Both will cost dollars to do properly. Both will cost even more if you chop and change and try and make NA change to boost. 

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/build-blow-carb-less-50/
Here's another article on modding a Holley for boost. It would be a damn sight cheaper than buying a finished one. Maybe more fun too.

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I have had serrious thoughts about using an e series computer and j3 chip.... it is probably a more sensible option than the blow through.


Also found photos from this setup off facebook from awhile back
...... from the sounds of it it went allright for what it is. I think i'll keep looking down the blow through root for now.





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There's a link here for how to modify a 4 Barrel DP Holley for boost : http://www.hangar18fabrication.com/blowthru.html

I know you don't really want to hear it, but by the time you've paid for an Aussiespeed manifold, carb, msd etc. You could have bought an E series ecu and J3 chipped it. Bosch Green 42Lb injectors, walbro 255 pump, fuel reg, xflow efi manifold & rail.

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Yeah it costs a lot to defy the laws of physics, but some get a kick out of it.... Good on them, the world would be boring if everything was LS

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Yeah I agree, spending $ on an engine to make atmo power then boosting on top of that is pretty much building the engine twice.

You don't need a mega-dollar top end in turbo applications, the whole idea is that you're force-feeding it for the extra torque (and power) rather than making the poor thing scream its tits off to achieve the same goal.

A turbo setup needs slightly upgraded valvesprings, wide lobe cam, good pistons, and especially a good ignition system, programmable and with decent output. Anything less will be a massive compromise.

Making big power on what most would describe as an agricultural engine like the Crossy takes specialist knowledge and lots more dollars than the usual V8 build. The Crossy has 2 disadvantages in that regard. It has less cubes, and is undersquare so rpm is not something it likes.

A turbo fixes the breathing once the atmo torque drops off. Dollar-for-dollar, turbo wins. Build the engine solely with that in mind and bolt on the snail when everything is good to go

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I’ve got all the bits to do a Crossflow turbo build for my XF Ghia, time and enthusiasm are lacking...

However my goal has never been about max dyno numbers, more around how it goes and feels.

My build is exactly what all the above are giving advice on, fresh bottom end, MLS head gasket, small cam and valve springs. ECU is an EL with XG harness with a J3 chip.

It will toast the tyres all day long, probably make 300 and something HP...not bothered really.


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