Trev Vaa

this thread lost all its taste now, it was so good for a while there.

holy shit.... lol
 
 
 
 
just a heads up, tramp rods don't help you in a corner, just in a straight line
try buying new leafs, should help a lot, and get a decent set of shocks, koni's etc and make sure the bushes are good.

holy shit.... lol
 
 
 
 
just a heads up, tramp rods don't help you in a corner, just in a straight line
try buying new leafs, should help a lot, and get a decent set of shocks, koni's etc and make sure the bushes are good.

holy shit.... lol
 
 
 
 
just a heads up, tramp rods don't help you in a corner, just in a straight line
try buying new leafs, should help a lot, and get a decent set of shocks, koni's etc and make sure the bushes are good.

wouldn't even bother, if you have to rebuild it there goes the best part of 1K if you want it to be LSD

wouldn't even bother, if you have to rebuild it there goes the best part of 1K if you want it to be LSD

yeah mate, the newer afd heads have slighty different ports to a cast 2v head.
probably worth going the matched combo plus dave does a combo deal too.

4" bore 3.98" stroke motor....
if they made good heads for these things they would sell.....

Yeah I am thinking that the camshaft will perform very well.  What we have to remember is that fuel laden air is heavier than just air itself.  That is all the flow bench measures - straight air.  When you put atomised fuel into the equation these heads may well maintain that 245cfm right up to .560" lift.  I say this because the fuel laden air might like to cascade over the short turn much better than what pure air does.  time will tell.
 
I'm not sure that we will experience any hole off idle as the cfm doubles from 100 to 200 and then keeps on rocketing.  If you can create that initial rush of air it is amazing what you can overcome. 
 
Ian Moo Moody (the creator of the Ford 6 ultraflow manifold and his own alloy red holden heads) cast an eye over the heads and questioned Cam on Camshaft, compression and application and he said it will be a stout combo.  That's good enough for me.  Moo knows his stuff and he was a great mate of GT and is still mates with Cam.  Cam does the porting on his alloy read heads. 
 
Anyway all this is theoretical and I need to get my shit together so I can get this thing together.  I may be able to swindle an engine dyno session so we may see what this things has before the car is even finished.  stay tuned. 

Just to prove I'm not full of shit and just posting random figures - here are the heads bolted to the bench. Gotta love Paw Paw's bench. Carton of xxxx Gold stubbies buys as much flow testing as you want, and you get to help drink the beers.
 
Champion bloke with a wealth of information stored in the laptop attached to the bench and inlet and exhaust plugs and profiles taken from excellent performing heads.

Were you standing beside me at the flow bench??
 
That is exactly what Paw paw and I said was happening.  You could hear it through the port.  AFD heads have a very good short turn but due to the limitations we were working with that is the best that could be done without destroying a perfect date stamped set of heads.
 
I am sure that when fuel is added to the equation this package will work to .560 and work very well.  Low to mid range figures are always where we want to see gains and we have done it. 
 
Really just want to get this thing built and finish the shell so that I can start playing with gearing for Leyburn.  I reckon with the torque we should be able to run gearing that allows just 1st and 2nd gear to be used whilst still being fast.  Time time time...

Yeah men that is not a bad stick and could work well.  I already have the XE274h so I will use it and see how it goes.  I'm not overly worried about the drop off in flow after 400.  Flow benches are a great tool but sometimes what you see on the bench doesn't always carry over into real world applications.
 
With the addition of a fuel into the equation the issue at .500 may well disappear and with a cam going to .560 we are still making use of some pretty good flow still at 222cfm.  The low to mid range flow figures show that this engine will be very strong off the bottom and into the mid range - exactly what I wanted.  With a wide 110 lobe separation it should hold the torque very well.  The exhaust design I have in mind will also pull hard on the intake and this really should be a load of fun.
 
I thank you all for your input on the cams, its good to hear what others have used and what works. 

I may be barking up the wrong tree here but have you looked at comp cams 268h grind, would be nearly ideal it's a great torquey cam (I've run them in a few engines including my own) and can make a heavy car alot of fun without breaking the bank (or driveline) in a stock looking engine

The results are in and what can I say but WOW!!! Cam has done a brilliant job once again.  Especially with my insistence on using the open chamber heads to keep the date stamp thing correct.  Remember this head package is not about outright performance.  If you want outright performance you just go and buy a set of alloys and be done with it.  The aim of this package was better than stock performance whilst maintaining a visually standard look.
 
Anyway enough of the carry on - here are the results.  The figures in the brackets are stock 2v closed chamber iron heads on the same bench.
 
            IN                                     EX
100    64     (56)                           49.4  (44)
200    130   (112)                         97     (75)
300    192   (158)                         130   (101)
400    244   (175)                         158   (122)
500    222   (185)                         179   (136)
600    222   (189)                         193   (149)
 
I'm REALLY happy.  The heads take off like a rocket and flow well to 400.  They get really noisy and slow down after that.  WHY?  The short turn and the open chamber design. 
 
Due to the corrosion found in the block it was decided to go really easy on the short turn to avoid hitting water and wasting a set of date stamp correct 2v iron heads.  They are not making them anymore..  Also with the open chamber, the shape of the combustion chamber has a lot to do with the way the air enters the cylinder. 
 
Having said all that the heads are perfect for the application.  They suit the Hydraulic cam and by keeping the comp down we should be able to keep a check on the detonation that these heads can suffer.  Programmable ignition will also help. 
 
Should make for an interesting ride.

Words cannot explain how excited and happy I am tonight.  The coffin arrived today;
 

 
What a company, great machining and can even continue the coffin joke. Well packaged as well to avoid freight damage.
 

 
Snappy image after I pilfered thru to find the heads and oh my the heads.... What can I say - nothing but AWESOME.
 

 
Photos do not do the work justice. Cam can hand port as good as any CNC machine. The man is dead set a guru.
 
Flow bench owner has not got back to via txt (he is a bit old school) - so I will ring him in the morning and get these on the bench by the weekend.
 
Pumped - Oh yeah. This thing is going to look stock as a rock and go like absolute sting.

The coffin is loaded and will be picked up by the carrier tomorrow - might even make it here by the weekend - need to get this pesky crossflow sorted so I can start on Conan.
 
I'll organise the flow bench for Tuesday/ Wednesday next week.

A word about devices that use the mobile phone network to track your stuff.
 
There have been two recent occasions when I investigated these items. Firstly, "GPS car trackers" that SMS the physical location of your vehicle when I was considering parking a car or two in storage. Secondly a "trail camera" that sends, night or day, footage of the pricks nicking your stuff to your phone as they are doing it when I caught a nuffy red-handed in my back yard.
 
Of note, while I was doing some digging, is that Telstra is switching off the 2G network in 2016. Optus's 2G network already has very marginal coverage. A lot of these devices are only enabled for the old 2G/GSM network and will be of little use in the near future. So consider whatever you buy, buy carefully.
 
Some vendors...especially the Ebay ones mistake the fact that because the 3G network uses similar frequencies to the the 2G network (850MHz, 900MHz etc) that 2G devices are compatible with the updated network. My understanding is that they are not....different protocols are used and therefore the 2G devices will cease to function as intended in time. The major carriers are "refarming" the frequencies used on the 2G network elsewhere...
 
So do your research before laying out the readies!

Yep - its a date stamp thing and that way I can reduce the deck height without running into comp issues.  Aiming for 9.8:1 comp now so that the engine can run on 95 if needed when on the back way down to brassy.  I should be able to bang the timing in to make up for the lack of comp. 

Today's Clevo pic;
 

 
Only the intake to be machined to suit the machined heads and block and then the Coffin will be heading home on Tuesday/ Wednesday next week.

OMG I am getting seriously excited now......

they would be actually, they are only a 190cc port, that's tiny for a 393 and they will be close to their choke point, the cam will be designed to suit the heads as well, so that is a factor, if it's making power it's making power, just not revving its tits off.
as for the AFD discussion, i've said my piece, i'll leave it there, i don't doubt the CHIs are superior to AFD,
but as to the question the quality of the AFDs, i have seen plenty used with no issues and didn't have any issues with the ones i used on a 2v motor i built.

thought i would write up the issue's I've had in the last few weeks with a mates cleveland and how we went about solving it, it may be useful to someone else.
 
i put the engine together for him about 12months ago (maybe a little less), fairly simple combo but with a fair bit of compression. in the last couple of months with the hot days he had noticed it had been knocking/pinging from time to time under load and had started to run on upon shut down.
the basic engine combo was
351 cleveland bored 20 thou
650street hp holley with a spacer (i think its 1")
RPM Airgap Intake
2v CC heads with a bit of port & chamber work done (not sure what they flowed) and 4v exhaust valves
Lunati 62503 cam
11.2:1 compression
6" rods
balanced bottom end
pacemaker 4>1 headers, twin 2.5" exhaust with Xpipe
mallory ignition system
toploader
9" 3.25:1
the car made 245rwkw on Lakeside Automotives Dyno
we tried backing off the timing at first, it worked, but then the car wasn't performing as well, so we put the timing back to normal, and chucked octane booster in, that shut it up as a temp fix (btw car runs on BP Ultimate only) but we kept searching for things to try.
put better leads on with less resistance, put a new coil on, new dizzy cap, then upped the jet size to try and cool the fuel down, which again worked, but then we had a slight stammer.
 
 
next up was plugs, and i shit you not he's put at least half a dozen sets in in the last month to sort it out. different brands etc
we dropped the heat range, again worked, but introduced fouling, changed brands, didn't work.
i did a fair bit of research and called up NGK, got through to a tech who had a fair bit of experience working with older cars with cast iron heads.
he recommended i look for another plug that had an unprojected tip, this removing a hot spot from the chamber.
spent the next day at looking for plugs trying to find the right one, then ordered in a set of NGK B6FS plugs in, same heat range the car had before, which were the plugs lakeside put in.
chucked them into his XC, and instantly the car ran perfect again.
detonating was solved, no more run on. fixxed, simple. no fouling either which i thought might be an issue.
i was tearing my hair out for about 3 weeks trying to sort this fuckin thing and all it needed was the right plug.
on the flip side, it was nice to drive an XC again, even if it was someone elses.

thought i would write up the issue's I've had in the last few weeks with a mates cleveland and how we went about solving it, it may be useful to someone else.
 
i put the engine together for him about 12months ago (maybe a little less), fairly simple combo but with a fair bit of compression. in the last couple of months with the hot days he had noticed it had been knocking/pinging from time to time under load and had started to run on upon shut down.
the basic engine combo was
351 cleveland bored 20 thou
650street hp holley with a spacer (i think its 1")
RPM Airgap Intake
2v CC heads with a bit of port & chamber work done (not sure what they flowed) and 4v exhaust valves
Lunati 62503 cam
11.2:1 compression
6" rods
balanced bottom end
pacemaker 4>1 headers, twin 2.5" exhaust with Xpipe
mallory ignition system
toploader
9" 3.25:1
the car made 245rwkw on Lakeside Automotives Dyno
we tried backing off the timing at first, it worked, but then the car wasn't performing as well, so we put the timing back to normal, and chucked octane booster in, that shut it up as a temp fix (btw car runs on BP Ultimate only) but we kept searching for things to try.
put better leads on with less resistance, put a new coil on, new dizzy cap, then upped the jet size to try and cool the fuel down, which again worked, but then we had a slight stammer.
 
 
next up was plugs, and i shit you not he's put at least half a dozen sets in in the last month to sort it out. different brands etc
we dropped the heat range, again worked, but introduced fouling, changed brands, didn't work.
i did a fair bit of research and called up NGK, got through to a tech who had a fair bit of experience working with older cars with cast iron heads.
he recommended i look for another plug that had an unprojected tip, this removing a hot spot from the chamber.
spent the next day at looking for plugs trying to find the right one, then ordered in a set of NGK B6FS plugs in, same heat range the car had before, which were the plugs lakeside put in.
chucked them into his XC, and instantly the car ran perfect again.
detonating was solved, no more run on. fixxed, simple. no fouling either which i thought might be an issue.
i was tearing my hair out for about 3 weeks trying to sort this fuckin thing and all it needed was the right plug.
on the flip side, it was nice to drive an XC again, even if it was someone elses.

thought i would write up the issue's I've had in the last few weeks with a mates cleveland and how we went about solving it, it may be useful to someone else.
 
i put the engine together for him about 12months ago (maybe a little less), fairly simple combo but with a fair bit of compression. in the last couple of months with the hot days he had noticed it had been knocking/pinging from time to time under load and had started to run on upon shut down.
the basic engine combo was
351 cleveland bored 20 thou
650street hp holley with a spacer (i think its 1")
RPM Airgap Intake
2v CC heads with a bit of port & chamber work done (not sure what they flowed) and 4v exhaust valves
Lunati 62503 cam
11.2:1 compression
6" rods
balanced bottom end
pacemaker 4>1 headers, twin 2.5" exhaust with Xpipe
mallory ignition system
toploader
9" 3.25:1
the car made 245rwkw on Lakeside Automotives Dyno
we tried backing off the timing at first, it worked, but then the car wasn't performing as well, so we put the timing back to normal, and chucked octane booster in, that shut it up as a temp fix (btw car runs on BP Ultimate only) but we kept searching for things to try.
put better leads on with less resistance, put a new coil on, new dizzy cap, then upped the jet size to try and cool the fuel down, which again worked, but then we had a slight stammer.
 
 
next up was plugs, and i shit you not he's put at least half a dozen sets in in the last month to sort it out. different brands etc
we dropped the heat range, again worked, but introduced fouling, changed brands, didn't work.
i did a fair bit of research and called up NGK, got through to a tech who had a fair bit of experience working with older cars with cast iron heads.
he recommended i look for another plug that had an unprojected tip, this removing a hot spot from the chamber.
spent the next day at looking for plugs trying to find the right one, then ordered in a set of NGK B6FS plugs in, same heat range the car had before, which were the plugs lakeside put in.
chucked them into his XC, and instantly the car ran perfect again.
detonating was solved, no more run on. fixxed, simple. no fouling either which i thought might be an issue.
i was tearing my hair out for about 3 weeks trying to sort this fuckin thing and all it needed was the right plug.
on the flip side, it was nice to drive an XC again, even if it was someone elses.