matt_lamb_160

Just remembered I have a 650 2 barrel I can test as well before I go to four barrel.  Mark is going to send up a plenum big for my two barrel as it is the old AS0015 and needs the pig.  Interesting times ahead.  The much needed rain from this cyclone means no panel work so I will be starting on the engine a bit earlier than planned.

Revs to 10 grand... Pfffft only if it's 1.5 litres and built by Yamaha. Who would pay 65 Gs for an extremely rare engine then try and rev it to 10 grand anyway?

I think everyone needs to just take a breath and back it off a touch. 
 
Please don't give up on this thread Matt because - not only is it helping you - but it is helping me.  I like to keep my brain active and try and think if what could be causing issues and come up with suggestions.  It helps us all.
 
Marty will no doubt solve it but what happens if he unexpectedly passes?  Believe me this can and does happen.  When GT died - he took with him some great knowledge and I am forever lost to that knowledge.  Blokes like Kev Wyatt and Marty are in the same league but what happens when they pass?  Someone needs to know how to fix these old beasts and their issues.  Both Marty and Kev didn't get to where they are without heaps of experience with issues just like this.
 
The times are a changing and 'internet forums' like this are a valuable way of us all sharing our knowledge and building on our own so that in the future we will have something to pass onto the next generation and not take all our wisdom to the grave.
 
Keep asking the questions and if we can't solve it - then take it to Marty and then share his wisdom.  It all helps.  He shouldn't have an issue with sharing this kind of information. 

... And when you use a significant amount of retard through the MSD programable. On there own or with locked timing, no issues.

The 6al2 PROGRAMMABLE is unbeatable - FULL STOP.  The street fire is strictly a locked timing unit which is far from ideal - especially on a street car.
 
If you are going to spend the coin - spend it once - buy a 6al-2 programmable.

D shape the top of that plenum and then hold on.  I think this manifold will work and I would not be touching 1 or 6 at all due to their dominance in the runner.
 
If there is a sharp edge in the entry to 2,3,4,&5 remove it on the high speed side (the top in plain speak) and on the inside of the runner. 
 
That manifold is so close to my 'Ray Hall - Cairns' 2 barrell manifold it is not funny.  Ray is not a dill let me tell you that straight up.  If his name is on it, I reckon it will work way better than stock.  In reality it probably will not hold a candle to the new aussiespeed design - but hey you have it - so why not try it - what is the worse that can happen?

Good work Sly. Couldn't have written it better.
 
Agree that a smaller carb could be used for a more commuter friendly engine. Will loose out above 5-5,200rpm, but how often do you use revs above that? But then again a smaller cam will make it more friendly as well.
 
If you have a big cam the carb might as well match in my opinion.
 
Good thread!

The module is just another thing that burns out on a 30 year old part that is not needed when used with a MSD that accepts Hall effects input. The module is just a sink to trim the volts back to 5volts logic and WILL fail eventually.
 
Undo the 2 screws holding the Grey motorcraft plug on and fit the EST uni in it's place to go from 6 wire out to 3 and no module. Now the only thing that can fail is the pickup but there few and far between.
 
HVC coil doe's make a difference on an banger engine for sure.   

I know what your saying gerg, but these engines love big carbies - it goes against all the theories and I think it is because of the oversquare design that makes them throw all those carby calculators out the window. 
 
On a tough crossy used in anger I agree with Matt's recommendations.  On the same engine used as a commuter with the occasional stab I would go with the 465. 

Sorry, but half of these comments are not helpful. 78xcgxl, everyone is well aware that you would put in a 4L. You say it in every crossflow rebuild thread and it is annoying. If you don't like crossflows, don't read about them.
 
I'd prefer to rebuild a crossflow than install a 4L, but that was not the question.
 
No reason not to use a 4brl with a hyd. cam (sorry Sly), perhaps not a 650dp though. An engine with that cam will not see more than 5,500rpm and a 465 will be enough. A 500 2brl. will start to limit the engine after 4,500 and won't be as friendly as the 4brl below 2,500rpm. Cost difference isn't great as you wouldn't use a stock mani and carb.
 
What are you going to do with the car and what rev range do you intend to use mate?
 
You don't need 200 rods with that sized cam and pistons to suit are $$$ and hard to get.

If using a dizzy, use a TFI. Easiest way to run it is to remove the module on the side and replace it with an EST plug or connect directly to the prongs. Very easy. A new Bosch coil is fine or get one from MSD.
 
Any good carb over 570cfm. I would use a nice choke-less 600 DP.

Should say any carb 570-650, not anything over 570 haha.

crank trigger is the go if you want to rev it like that - it is a reasonably cheap conversion and makes a massive difference. 
 
The MSD universal crank trigger unit is the go.  just gets rid of all the problems associated with either dizzy (TFI or EST). 
 
Sounds like a solid combo.  I'll bet my left nut the copper head gasket leaks.  never seen one seal properly yet and really they are overkill with that compression ratio.  I have used standard style gaskets to 14:1 comp without an issue.

Some pipes/hoses still need a tidy up but here it is.
 

 

 

I'm considering the idea, I might look at putting something together just to see if it can be done properly hmmmm brain is going now hahaha

If you are dead set keen on doing this - get yourself an XF EFI inlet manifold and use the initial section as this will give you an evenly spaced set of six holes to work with.  A steel flange and a couple of steam pipe 90 degree bends up to a flange and mount some holleys to them.  balance pipes between them and then screw around with a throttle linkage.  It could work but would be a lot of effort.

Some pipes/hoses still need a tidy up but here it is.
 

 

 

The time this thread has been going a bank deposit would have cleared in my account for my engine

Its the 86da block you want to run the EF crankshaft

but in saying that there is no real point in running a 12 counter weight crank in a engine that will not rev there is just no point I may be a smoother engine but its lot of crank to get spining in a engine that will not rev over 4800rpm

CC your head and work you compresstion ratio out before getting pistsons ive just done a engine with 15cc pistons and it had well in the 11s in comp it was way higher then I thort it would have been  but I had a head I wanted to use so I had to run with it


 

Thanks mate. Most expensive parts were the rods, and the v-band flange, but it came with the waste-gate.

Thanks mate. Most expensive parts were the rods, and the v-band flange, but it came with the waste-gate.

I never posted my solution. I wanted a low mount log manifold and decided that anyone who thinks they can build a log manifold that is more free flowing than a std. manifold is kidding themselves.
 
Cast Iron to mild steel welds done using CastCraft (55, from memory) and stainless to mild done using Weldalls. All pre-heated and cooled slowly with gas torch.
 

 

 

 

 

I never posted my solution. I wanted a low mount log manifold and decided that anyone who thinks they can build a log manifold that is more free flowing than a std. manifold is kidding themselves.
 
Cast Iron to mild steel welds done using CastCraft (55, from memory) and stainless to mild done using Weldalls. All pre-heated and cooled slowly with gas torch.
 

 

 

 

 

I never posted my solution. I wanted a low mount log manifold and decided that anyone who thinks they can build a log manifold that is more free flowing than a std. manifold is kidding themselves.
 
Cast Iron to mild steel welds done using CastCraft (55, from memory) and stainless to mild done using Weldalls. All pre-heated and cooled slowly with gas torch.
 

 

 

 

 

230HP out of a 302 in an XT GT is gross as well.
 
In any case the actual power figure is only a small part of the story.