Defective

What a score!
It's survivors like this that I reckon will skyrocket in prices over the 5-6 years, people are really getting to the old school stuff again, and they're just getting harder to find in good nick.
 
How about that leg room in the back...

Engine conversion is still a way off so no extractors in the way just yet lol.

I bought a xd manual box from a wreckers in redcliffe few months back.. $150 i think it was..
 
All bolted up fine ... easy as to change over, unless you have extractors where they shouldnt be and had to pull the spline from the coloumn down but thats because it was powersteer before.

My xf has the turning circle to rival a oil tanker...

https://www.mustangsplus.com/Mustang-Negative-Wedge-Kits/

They are kffl-59's

At least they won't sag.... Nah, il modify the bump stop to give me back some travel.

And after....
 

 
It's just on it haha, by the times the springs settle it will be hard on the bump stops.

Il treat this as a before pic...
 

How mint does the bump stop look, doesn't look like it's ever had to do its job lol

Il treat this as a before pic...
 

How mint does the bump stop look, doesn't look like it's ever had to do its job lol

How mint does the bump stop look, doesn't look like it's ever had to do its job lol

Bloody hell!
That's what I'd imagine the clearance would be like in the old jim hunter suspension off road racing ute!!
 
 
Edit :

 
 
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Il treat this as a before pic...
 

Il have to take a pic of mine before it gets lowered.... I'm picking il need a wide angle lense to capture the bump stop clearance.

Il have to take a pic of mine before it gets lowered.... I'm picking il need a wide angle lense to capture the bump stop clearance.

Il have to take a pic of mine before it gets lowered.... I'm picking il need a wide angle lense to capture the bump stop clearance.

Il have to take a pic of mine before it gets lowered.... I'm picking il need a wide angle lense to capture the bump stop clearance.

Hey dude, they are pretty easy to fit and setup, they're bolted in with 2 bolts at the front and 2 at the back, the factory shifter hole simply gets plated over and sealed. A larger hole in front of the shifter where the cable goes through will need to be drilled and a grommet fitted to seal the cable.
 
Pic from driver side: (the only thing really visible from this side is the wiring for the shiter light)
 

 
Pic from passenger side: (as part of hiding the engine bay wiring i deleted the ugly wiring that goes across the firewall and to the gearbox, these were pulled back into the cabin and run directly to the gearbox under the carpet, wiring for reverse lights and neutral safety switch are on this side, you can also see the wiring that goes through the floor to the speedo sender. What you can't really see is the cable running through the floor in front of the shifter.)
 

 
Here if you look closely you can see where the cable comes through the floor, it runs around in a loop, goes through a bracket (supplied) bolted to the side of the 'box, and to the selector lever (also supplied).
To fit this you put the 'box in reverse, spin the connector (red) up the threaded rod until it lines up with the selector lever, poke it through and put a washer and splitpin through the other side (i also fitted a nut).
Easier than having a shit.
 

Depending on cars running a 100 cell cat can bring up fault codes, on a xg I dare say you would have zero issues.

Il check that out, but I always get sidetracked in your thread haha. So much interesting stuff.

If you have the means to put the flange on the edge this would be great. Will give a flatter result at the end. Be aware there is quite a bit of shaping in that area, not just a flat bit of steel. Check the pics in my shop thread of when I made the filler for the green van. I tried to show how much curve is in them.

Oh and yes it is expensive. But it's quicker and relatively painless. I think if you're careful about it, you should be able to do a four window van with one tube. Glue would be easier to apply to the new panel while it's laying flat on a stand etc then put it in place and clamp. Wear latex type gloves and thoroughly clean the areas on all panels with wax n grease remover.

If you do it properly as per instructions, I know the fusor adhesive is as strong as welded joints and sometimes stronger than typically spot welded panels. There will be no negative impact for using panel bonding techniques. I'd probably glue the panel to the outside skin with about a 15-20 mm overlap. Once fully glued you could carefully shave the stepped edge down to enable it to feather into the rest of the panel with some filler and minimal ridge.