Defective

I’ve had many 2 litre cortinas one 2 litre escort (mk2) and quite a few 1100/1300/1600 escorts. Joy of getting my license in nz near the crossover of jdm stuff taking over from British shitheaps. The 2 litres go well, very well and used to be a cheap upgrade. The 1600s aren’t really that much better than a 1300 IMO. The 1100s are a hoot, they make about 10hp on a good day... They say nothing is more fun than driving a slow car fast. How slow do you wanna go fast?

That is probably the best possible outcome I reckon. FYI, it’s 15 years in qld for cars not to be recorded on the wovr. Be very wary buying a ba cheap from up here haha, it’s probably come from the salvage auctions.

+1 for hychill. It just works.

Add more petrol. You no longer have a small amount of petrol in there, you have a large amount. Thank me later.

Early fg motors have the b series dipstick blank, later ones don’t.

Not the easiest wheel to find these days unfortunately. I missed out on a set a few weeks back.

First off, you want hub adapters, not spacers. Adapters bolt on, spacers slip on. Not a Ute but I ran 50mm spacers on the rear of my Au ghia with zero issues. Another option, if you want to keep the tickford look is track down some e series offset au xr rims. Will do the same thing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That would be a no on both counts I would say. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pull the plugs and have a look. See if they’re oily or fuely or just plain shit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ahh the old Xd with a factory top loader and nine inch urban myth... Well, almost. At best it would be a dealer fit. Unprovable either way.

I’ve used ultra king and bought from super Suzuki or whatever they’re called a few times now, never had an issue. I think the shocks I just put in the front of the el might be ultra king too.

E series diff is by far the easiest and most cost effective option. Look through the project threads and you will see what others have done. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If a Barra bolts straight into an au then the reverse should be true. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not much else to tell, that’s pretty much the story. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Glad this thread is here haha, my thermos have just started playing up. Won’t switch to high speed when the car starts getting hot (like in slow traffic) fans stay on slow, which still stops it from over heating but it definitely heats up. Hitting a/c doesn’t help, they cycle up and then shut off, presumably no gas in the a/c so it won’t let it run.

All e series 5.0s are high output.... means nothing really, they still slow.

I'd imagine Barra would be a head funk if you wanted it to be remotely legal. Realistically a well built pinto and a decent auto is the easiest and probably cheapest way to go. I've never known them to be remotely economical though, that big old weber loves a drink. Never driven one on gas. I went from a mk5 sport to a xb Fairmont 302 back many years and my fuel costs barely changed haha. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Barra fits. Barra and auto plus shortened (very) e series diff. All cheap as dirt parts. Bf or fg Barra will run for ever and go good. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ohhhh, you have ftr’s! I’ve been chasing a mint set of those since I got my wagon haha. I’m going out first thing in the morning to hopefully buy the wagons new shoes.

As far as I know yep. I was gonna grab them myself but I don’t think they would suit my wagon.

This is your only real legal option if your deadset on running that style of wheel. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

While illegal, quality bolt on adapters are not dangerous and if sized right will sit exactly how they would on the donor car. You could fit an au diff which would take care of the rears but there’s no simple way of changing the front offset. You could look for a set of aftermarket au xr rims, they pop up for sale from time to time. I’ve run bolt on adapters on many of my cars, and for many years and have never had anything close to a failure. There’s a bit of an urban myth that your insurance is voided if you run them but that’s only partly true. If they contribute to the accident, then he’s your insurance company will say no. If they don’t contribute then generally they don’t care.

An xe Ghia is certainly a wise choice. Just don’t break the headlights as they’re hard to obtain and expensive. apparently a few drops of oil down inside the cam sync can alleviate the symptoms of a dying cam sync, but a new one is only $30-40 plus freight out of the states. But the profile ‘number’ is measured different to the rest of the numbers. Eg 245/60x15. whilst the ‘245’ and the ‘15’ are clear measurements the profile is a percentage of the width measurement. And that’s ignoring the whole mindfuck of using mm and inches in the same description... Clearly, oils ain’t oils. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Throw drop spindles in there and you would have a nicely set up front end. I’ll have to look at that when I’m ready for the pano. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I reckon the terri 17in spare is a good looking steel wheel too. Gives them that taxi/interceptor look lol, but with a decent diameter. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk