Thom

The engine itself is pretty easy to convert to carb, most 8.2 deck carb intakes will bolt straight to the engine so basically pick your manifold and carb of choice, edelbrock dual plane air gaps work really well for a nice driver, almost all carb manifolds will lose a little low down torque as its not really practical to create carb manifolds with intake runners as long as the efi intakes, but most will see an improvement in hp and make the engine a little more rev happy, there are a couple of options for distributors you can use the stock efi dizzy and use an msd/ice ignition/crane fireball box that has timing control to run the distributor, or you could just drop in an aftermarket dizzy (electronic or points your choice) and go. The hardest part is the transmission if it is the original unit from the eb the trans is a btr 4 speed which is essentially and Australianonly market trans so not much is availableforthen in the aftermarket (Australian delivered vehicles never had aod/aode), these trans are difficult to set-up as a stand alone unit, they still require a tps signal, speedo signal and a trans control unit to run, a couple of places like shiftkits Australia do make stand alone trans computers but from what I'm aware they only do manually shifted units, as far as comp ratios and such go you will have to work out which pistons your engine has, most Aussie 5.0's had flat tops with valve reliefs cut into the pistons but some engines had dished pistons

@Thom is Very Busy, but knows a lot about them, 
 
how fast do you want to go? the XR falcon is pretty light.  
i have a couple of mates with EF and XH with the crap heads, they both go well and are basically stock (possible better extractors than the garbage manifolds they came with)
one with a manual runs a 15.9 1/4mile with 400,000kms on it is in an XH ute. 
 
the AU falcon heads and intake are the better ones, 
 
but yeah i'm with you on the going back to carby's however then you may not be able to use the 4 speed auto. . 

Just removing the ridge and honing will give you an egg shaped cylinder bore. You'll definitely get blow by.
Having said that, If it's just a daily, it would be fine. 

there's plenty like that,  Footscray (footscrazy), Bayswater (Bongswater) Cranbourne (crimeburn) 
i'm probably missing at least 20 that i've heard 

The nascar block in dads model a has the later dizzy size, and my one does too

The nascar block in dads model a has the later dizzy size, and my one does too

Xy still had 302 windsors at the beginning it the 302 Cleveland wasn't ready for production until later on

Xy still had 302 windsors at the beginning it the 302 Cleveland wasn't ready for production until later on

Ok that makes sense, use one as a spacer against the face of the chuck, makes it easier to true it up

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Easiest way to grab them in the chuck is face them back to back and clamp them both in the chuck at the same time, they machine pretty nicely

Easiest way to grab them in the chuck is face them back to back and clamp them both in the chuck at the same time, they machine pretty nicely

I usually machine the face off the cones and add the amount I took off the cones to the shims

I usually machine the face off the cones and add the amount I took off the cones to the shims

My diff came out of an XG and all the old gear swapped over, but spot-on Dean about the annoying parts randomness of Aussie BW diffs.

My original diff build had a 25-spline LSD centre out of an EA, put into said XG housing that originally came with 28-spline open centre and axles. I had 3.27 gears but felt they were too short, so late went over to 3.08s when I had to replace the centre with one from an XD. I'd made a mistake when assembling the first build by shimming out the clutches too much, and the bolts broke that hold the halves of centre together. They came out and one got caught in a couple of gear teeth and bang! Still drove fine, but the centre was mangled from having no bolts holding it together. Only the carrier bearings were holding the diff centre halves together. It wasn't pretty.

So the current setup has an XG disc brake housing, 25-spline 2-pinion LSD centre from an XD, and Commodore 3.08 gears. This is behind a 302 so the pissy axles are what I always think about when tempted to launch hard.

Being XF, yours should have the same internals as XB. So I'll say a tentative "yes" to them being interchangeable. The usual setup with shims and preload needs to happen though, don't fuss hugely about tooth pattern, just as long as your coasting contact patch is ok and backlash isn't way out (aim for less than 10 thou at the crown). The drive contact pattern matters less because that will lap in over time.

You really need a diff housing spreader if doing the carrier bearing preload properly. If you've got fresh carrier bearings, you need preload on them otherwise they will wear out quickly once you put power through them. If you can slide the carrier in without spreading the housing, you have no preload. Some like to get the preload close, and hammer the shims into place but that just knocks the crap out of them and that's the reason why good ones are hard to find now (diff bloke told me that).

Do it once, do it right.

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A cheap and simple combo tow combo I've often advised people on is one i used to have in the 351 in my customline, it was nothing special but the combo is the key, I used what was essentially a re ring and bearing stock 351 short engine and pair of 302 cc heads with the chamber layed out slightly (i can't remember how much but I ended up with 10.5:1 static comp) a comp 268h and valve springsto suit, torque power dual plane air gap intake, 600cfm edelbrock and a pair of exhaust manifolds (i did later run some yella terra bolt on roller rockers, they didn't make any more power but they made valve float happen about 700rpm later and valve spring retainers lasted longer, ideally I should of put decent retainers and collets in that engine but I had a large bucket of stock retainers I kept in the boot, and I got so good at changing them on the side of the road that I could do a pair in 15 minutes) it made 235hp and around 385 ftlb at the tyres through a c10 with a 2200 stall and 3.5 gears, it made peak torque at 2k rpm and fell flat on its face at 5500rpm, the car was amazing for towing and ran a flat 14 at Heathcote and would shred tyres with 6 people in the car in top gear at 2500 rpm, I like the 268h for budget builds as it doesn't require a high stall, bolt on rockers can be used with it (machining clevo head for screw in studs can get expensive) and it is designed to be a rv cam so it make bulk torque at low rpm, its a cam that doesn't require extra machine work on the heads so that saves a ton of budget

A cheap and simple combo tow combo I've often advised people on is one i used to have in the 351 in my customline, it was nothing special but the combo is the key, I used what was essentially a re ring and bearing stock 351 short engine and pair of 302 cc heads with the chamber layed out slightly (i can't remember how much but I ended up with 10.5:1 static comp) a comp 268h and valve springsto suit, torque power dual plane air gap intake, 600cfm edelbrock and a pair of exhaust manifolds (i did later run some yella terra bolt on roller rockers, they didn't make any more power but they made valve float happen about 700rpm later and valve spring retainers lasted longer, ideally I should of put decent retainers and collets in that engine but I had a large bucket of stock retainers I kept in the boot, and I got so good at changing them on the side of the road that I could do a pair in 15 minutes) it made 235hp and around 385 ftlb at the tyres through a c10 with a 2200 stall and 3.5 gears, it made peak torque at 2k rpm and fell flat on its face at 5500rpm, the car was amazing for towing and ran a flat 14 at Heathcote and would shred tyres with 6 people in the car in top gear at 2500 rpm, I like the 268h for budget builds as it doesn't require a high stall, bolt on rockers can be used with it (machining clevo head for screw in studs can get expensive) and it is designed to be a rv cam so it make bulk torque at low rpm, its a cam that doesn't require extra machine work on the heads so that saves a ton of budget

A cheap and simple combo tow combo I've often advised people on is one i used to have in the 351 in my customline, it was nothing special but the combo is the key, I used what was essentially a re ring and bearing stock 351 short engine and pair of 302 cc heads with the chamber layed out slightly (i can't remember how much but I ended up with 10.5:1 static comp) a comp 268h and valve springsto suit, torque power dual plane air gap intake, 600cfm edelbrock and a pair of exhaust manifolds (i did later run some yella terra bolt on roller rockers, they didn't make any more power but they made valve float happen about 700rpm later and valve spring retainers lasted longer, ideally I should of put decent retainers and collets in that engine but I had a large bucket of stock retainers I kept in the boot, and I got so good at changing them on the side of the road that I could do a pair in 15 minutes) it made 235hp and around 385 ftlb at the tyres through a c10 with a 2200 stall and 3.5 gears, it made peak torque at 2k rpm and fell flat on its face at 5500rpm, the car was amazing for towing and ran a flat 14 at Heathcote and would shred tyres with 6 people in the car in top gear at 2500 rpm, I like the 268h for budget builds as it doesn't require a high stall, bolt on rockers can be used with it (machining clevo head for screw in studs can get expensive) and it is designed to be a rv cam so it make bulk torque at low rpm, its a cam that doesn't require extra machine work on the heads so that saves a ton of budget

A cheap and simple combo tow combo I've often advised people on is one i used to have in the 351 in my customline, it was nothing special but the combo is the key, I used what was essentially a re ring and bearing stock 351 short engine and pair of 302 cc heads with the chamber layed out slightly (i can't remember how much but I ended up with 10.5:1 static comp) a comp 268h and valve springsto suit, torque power dual plane air gap intake, 600cfm edelbrock and a pair of exhaust manifolds (i did later run some yella terra bolt on roller rockers, they didn't make any more power but they made valve float happen about 700rpm later and valve spring retainers lasted longer, ideally I should of put decent retainers and collets in that engine but I had a large bucket of stock retainers I kept in the boot, and I got so good at changing them on the side of the road that I could do a pair in 15 minutes) it made 235hp and around 385 ftlb at the tyres through a c10 with a 2200 stall and 3.5 gears, it made peak torque at 2k rpm and fell flat on its face at 5500rpm, the car was amazing for towing and ran a flat 14 at Heathcote and would shred tyres with 6 people in the car in top gear at 2500 rpm, I like the 268h for budget builds as it doesn't require a high stall, bolt on rockers can be used with it (machining clevo head for screw in studs can get expensive) and it is designed to be a rv cam so it make bulk torque at low rpm, its a cam that doesn't require extra machine work on the heads so that saves a ton of budget

more progress on the car. Back panel is in, but not welded. just getting things all setup before being welded in. 
 

 
more little imperfections being sorted out.
 

 
factory creases from panel and body joins being smoothed. 
 

 
tonight after hours, we made a start on the underside of the car. got most of it done and prepped. (this was after only a short amount of time) 
Awaiting a conclusion as to how far Mark wants me to take the underside. Or rather, how far I think I should go with the underside of the car. given we got so much of it cleaned and back to bare metal tonight, id imagine another solid day and it will be ready to go underneath. 
 

I love it when a plan comes together

Not quite the solution but you fellas were on the right track. I had another go at it this morning, pulled all the leads off and went to put them back on again just to be sure. That's when I noticed that the firing order stamped on the posts on the el cheapo Chinese dizzy cap was wrong, 5 and 3 were reversed. Swapped 'em over, cranked it and it fired right up!

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Did you use the correct firing order roller windsors use the 13726548 order like a Cleveland not 15486372 like a pre 86 302 windsor

Just realised its a 4.0 not a 5.0l

Most lpg systems start on petrol and then flick over to LPG when the engine has run for a few seconds, if its playing up when starting chances are its the fuel system playing up, one was to diagnose is to have someone try to start it while spraying some brake clean/carb cleaner down the throttle body, if is starts and runs easily then switches to lpg you know you have a problem with something in you fuel system, if it doesn't then it could be spark related

You do what you want Panko.
I was doing up Escorts 20-25 years ago.
The only Ford escort 1600 that revs harder than a Pinto 2L is the 1600 twin cam, because it's overhead cam.
To get around radiator mods, you just move the engine mounts back 2".

2L Pinto is a beautiful motor, very easy to wake up with just a cam and nice carbs.
I've been there done that with Eskies.
I suggest you read Steve Vizards books on 2L Pintos, will change your life.

I understand your not wanting to mod the escort too much, mods for 2L are minimal.
Was just trying to save you a lot of time and money.


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