gonefishing

The MSD 6530 sounds like a fkn winner! If your running carby and want performance on a dizzy it sounds like it's the best option.
 
I'm running an inductive system. TFI dizzy and high energy single coil pack controlled by Megasquirt ECU. Gets good spark energy and superior duration compared to an capacitive (ie MSD) system but it's a no go zone above 6000rpm if you use a dizzy as it will exceed the duty cycle of the coil.
If you want to rev over 6000rpm on a dizzy you pretty much have to go capacitive system or you'll be sacrificing your dwell times = less spark.
Make no mistake however, MSD is a very good system. It's proven. Throwing out an MSD to switch to inductive on a dizzy would be silly. However, if you are YET to upgrade your ignition system, and are not planning on exceeding 6000rpm. Inductive should be considered.
 
I mentioned COP and CPP before and there were a few questions.
COP and CPP stands for Coil on Plug and Coil Per Plug Respectively. The difference is COP the coil connects directly to the plug, there is no spark lead. With CPP the coils are mounted remotely and a lead run to the plug.
COP and CPP systems take out the dizzy all together, a single coil fires each plug. This gives less variation in timing, greater reliability and less resistive points for loss in spark energy.
The coils duty is 1/6th sequential or 1/3 wasted, that of a dizzy coil. So, you can run full dwell well above 10,000rpm for max spark on an inductive system.
 
COP/CPP waste spark means exactly that. It is a coil on plug or a coil per plug installation that uses only a crank trigger to run.
 
To expand,
To get the correct timing on a dizzy you only need a signal every TDC. So for a 6 cylinder you need 6 signals per camshaft rotation. The dizzy sends the spark to the correct plug.
WIthout the dizzy you need to tell the ECU which coil to fire. So it needs to know TDC on number 1 cylinder so it can correctly sequence the firing order. The first version of this is a trigger wheel on the crank.
 
There are 720 degrees crankshaft rotation, per ignition event, per cylinder.
Meaning the computer only knows TDC on cylinder 1. NOT if it is TDC compression or TDC exhaust stroke.
Problem? The solution is easy. The ECU simply fire's on both!
 
There will be a spark at TDC exhaust AND TDC compression. One spark ignites the fuel mix. and the other... does nothing. As it's sparking against no compression (the exhaust valve is open)and into exhaust fumes. Therefore it is 'Wasted'
 
Thats where it comes from. Waste spark means every second spark on each cylinder is 'wasted'
 
To get full sequential spark, you need to know if the engine is on the exhaust, or compression stroke. This information is picked from the Camshaft via a camshaft position sensor.
 
Questions? =P

TFI dizzy with a module you wire 1-3-6 pins 2ND grey box from the top.
 
6= white from MSD
3= red from MSD
1= earth to ground
 
Orange from MSD to coil +
Black from MSD to coil -
 
http://www.google.com.au/imgres?imgurl=http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/TFI_5.0_comparison.gif&imgrefurl=http://forums.holley.com/showthread.php?3063-HP-to-Ford-TFI&h=798&w=500&sz=21&tbnid=hK8DyPpGtFnIeM:&tbnh=81&tbnw=51&zoom=1&usg=__tlYbRdgziF1KPDgqxEE9YpbpyAo=&docid=pBUQp9D8IEhFBM&sa=X&ei=5KfKUdmrA8ellAXDqYDYBg&sqi=2&ved=0CDUQ9QEwAw&dur=429
 
You can tweak mix the wires around and still it to work,you can convert it to no module,you can run it from a EST dizzy aswell which is no module.Ando has alot of luck with the EST dizzys...
 
Easy as.

sometimes I wish I went the 6530 over just the street fire cdi
 
However I went CDI Street Fire CDI, MSD Blaster 3 and TFI running module (new rotor, new cap, and real good clean), the spark increase was insane!, car idles so much smoother, better fuel burn, and im actually getting an extra 100kms to a tank, on a rough tune.
 
Only issue is sometimes its hard to start, but I think that's down to my piss ant power cables, will soon be sorted by some 50mm2 cable! (0awg for those don't know)

I have been down this road and been 250 rod and 200 rod combos with my engine there was no real gain that we could see on the dyno or in the car for that matter with 262@50 cam and 4 barrel I never tyred it with webers

I just sold 2 200 rod engines people think its better and in something like rob has it is, on a engine that does not turn past 6200 theres no need the 250 rod will put up with it and love you long time

can you but the rings for the 200 rod pistons again? I have a set of new 200 rod pistons  in the shed ive never done anything with cause you cant seem to get the ring sets for them anymore so I bought these to nick the ring set for the my engine that I killed a piston ring

 

If you want to build a strong, torque monster and have a non individual runner intake - go short rod
 
If you want to build a strong, torque monster that RPM's to 7200 comfortably, have individual runner intake and a cylinder head that flows over 225cfm- go long rod.
 
If you want to build a long rod motor to impress your mates - do it. 
 
Trust me - the short rod motor with a four barrel intake (or restrictor class racing 2 barrel intake ) is a formidable thing. 
 
Yes I know all the stuff about bore stroke ratio and all the long held beliefs of the benefits of the long rod.  I have built enough of these as competition engine to know what works and what doesn't.  Brenton's new race motor is a short rod - big solid cam beast and it is stupid fast.
 
As always the choice is yours. 

There is absolutely no denying the benefit of a 200 rod setup in a crossflow, BUT does it suit what you want to use the engine for. A 200 rod combo is useful when you are trying to extract the last 2% of power out of a crossflow AND revving the engine to 7500RPM all the time. So if the car is for drag racing where you are trying to win a championship or set the fastest time ever by a NA crossflow, your car is for burnout comps where the engine will be sitting above 7000rpm for 3 minutes at a time or your the new drift king where the limiter is used to show how strong your car is go the 200 rod setup. Unless you are doing these events or an event just like it you DON'T need 200 rod combo. The only other time you will need a 200 rod combo is if your building a car for street machine and so they can fill out the story they can say you have a 200 rod combo.
 
Now to the links you provided.
The cheaper set has flat top pistons, which will limit the cylinder head you can run if you want to use petrol instead of race fuel. You will find it hard to keep the CR down with flat tops and still get zero deck height ( zero deck height is better for performance)
The more expensive set have custom compression ratio but at $2200 is stupid expensive unless you need forged pistons or desperate for 200 rod combo. As an example my solid roller cam crossflow has 10.5:1 CR, will have a rev limit around the 6200-6500rpm, will run on pump fuel and I'm hoping for at least 350fwhp. I am using standard hypetec pistons with hastings rings and it cost me less than $300.
 
So if you win lotto, have money to burn, want the wank factor of forged setup or are trying to set records go for the 200 rod setup. Otherwise save yourself a stupid amount of money and use standard pistons, spend the rest on better parts and go just as fast.

Buy it... Then send me the link so I can buy one too.
 
Lets you rev the 250 higher but the pistons to suit are stupid hard to come by.

selecting the correct single rail or top loader bellhousing for my crossy is proving quite interesting as there is many to choose from ,drivers side cable set up ,passenger side cable set up,early 250 top loader hyd,and xb top/loader single rail to be confirmed,im pretty sure from xc/xd on they were all cable,but one of the problems faced by putting a early hyd set up in a xf style firewall is no correct bolt plate for the master cylinder to go on,i wonder why did ford did away with this ? anyway im trying to get info if the xb 250 bellhousing was drilled for top loader and single rail as i have seen a few pictures that indicate it was,but keen to hear does anyone actualy have one,i imagine they were made in late 1973 /74 and perhaps 75 until the xc came out,the cost to convert to a hyd set up is staggering,$200 for a pedal conversion,$200 for master/slave cyl's,clutch line $75,probly $150-200 for the bellhousing,fork,ect,,,,hmmmmmm.

Is it a 3 speed manual?
 
If so, pretty easy.
 
Swap the column as well. 3spd out, new/different clutch, do the rear main while you're there, cut a hole in the floor, install five speed.
 
And you'll need a new clutch cable for the 5spd because your XF will have the clutch cable going to the drivers side, 5spds have the cable on the passengers, as do all 86 onwards XFs.

Thanks for the information about resetting the trip meter while moving, I didn't know that! I use my trip meter a lot to calculate fuel economy per fill.
 
I might add if I can. Use gloves when doing this to prevent smudges on the front faces of the dials. I use rubber nitrile gloves.

Ok guys, going to do a breakdown of how to tear down an Instrument Cluster and replace the Gears if your Odometer and Trip meter stop working.
This is the base model GL cluster.
 
Most common cause is the gear in the Speedo assembly loses a tooth and gets stuck in one position.
 
Ok, first of all you need to take Surround off of the Instrument cluster/Dash.
 
2 screws on top of dash under small square plastic covers....

2 screws, one each side under the switches for dash light dimmer and under switch for headlights.....

Then there are 2 more, one each side of the steering column that go up into the bottom of the surround.....

Once these screws are out, you can pull the surround forward and disconnect the electrical connectors to the side switches and get it out of the way.
 
Then you will see 2 plastic tabs at the top with screws, remove them.
Then at the bottom there are 2 plastic tabs with screws, remove them.
 
Then carefully roll the Instrument panel forwards as you remove it, so you can disconnect the Smartlock wiring plug, lower left and the 2 black wiring plugs at back of cluster(centre).
After this you can pull the cluster out and set up on a table somewhere.
 
Disassembly.....

 
Ok, to disassemble you need to remove 4 screws on the top that screw the white back to the black front panel....

 
Then remove ALL silver screws from the back panel.....

There are 3 different sizes, so take note of where they are from.
 
Then on the bottom of the cluster, there are 4 black plastic tabs....

These must be pushed down to disengage.
Tip: Start at one side while slightly levering from the centre.
Once all tabs are unlocked very gently lever around the 2 parts and it should come apart....

Put the plastic clear cover to one side.
 
Now you are left with this....

 
Grab the centre section with speedo like so.....

And gently remove.....

 
Remove the two screws in the face plate and invert, being careful not to damage the speedo needle assembly, use the hole it came out to rest it on....

 
Rotate the internals so the circuit board faces towards you.....

 
On the silver round cover there are two screws, remove these and gently remove cover and circuit board and lay down....
 
Then lift gear assembly off....

Flip it over....

 
You will most probably find one broken tooth....

Now the reason this happens is resetting the trip meter while moving.
Reset the Trip meter ONLY when vehicle is stationary.
 
Replace gear, reassemble everything in reverse order of the above breakdown and your done.
 
Please note, this assembly is missing the reset pin that triggers the Trip meter which goes through this hole and attaches via clip to the silver bar....

 
Hope that helps some of you get your Odometer/Trip meters going again.
 
New gears can be sourced on EBay for around $25 a set which is small gear cog and larger black cog, replace both at once.
 
NOS Trip meter reset pins are harder to find and expensive. (Around $50-60).

If you can find an old dead dash with good reset pin, that may be the best option.
 
Cheers.
 
Jack.
 
 
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