Luke13

if you are changing manifold and carby you'll only have a few things to hook up.. 
vacuum for the brake booster..  vacuum to the hose into the dash (runs the vents and stuff) the other hose coming out of the dash is heater tap. vacuum to the dizzy advance from a ported (becomes vacuum once the throttle is above idle)   
you should be able to connect the charcoal canister up somewhere but @gerg probably has a better idea on that. and the PCV valve is probably another you'd have to figure out with someone elses help. 
you could try replicate all those hoses for a stock look perhaps, but the carby and manifold probably wouldn't have enough outlets on it to even come close
 
 

Easy , get rid of all of it . How many hoses are coming out of the firewall ? 
you will need to hook up some of the hoses out of the firewall to make the dash controls work 
what distributor are you using ? 

Thanks mate that's a great idea to make a kill switch

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Just keep the wiring there and bridge the terminals, or even make a starter kill switch hidden in that area using that wiring.

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Yea Iol I was rather frustrated it stopped me putting in my T5 I had organised to use a mates hoist yesterday but couldn't drive the bloody thing there because of 4 little bolts I had to order them in it was the 5th different thread I tried lol

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Thanks for all the help I found what thread they are it's 5/16 24

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Yep, been there recently also. Replacement water pump and the thread for the four small pulley bolts were different. Who'd have known, pretty frustrating at the time 😵
 
 

Thanks for all the help I found what thread they are it's 5/16 24

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Don't have any in stock to check the bolt size with I'm afraid

That's a Tru-Flow pump which is just reboxed GMB, shows bolts included. If I remember and have time at work tomorrow and if we have a xflow pump on the shelf I can check the bolt size

No bolts came with it wish they did it would save me a lot of running around  but it they are metric I would assume m8 just have to guess the thread

That sounds like the same as mine I will give it a go thanks

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You don't need to plug them, nothing more than a residual dribble of trans fluid will come out (unless the line in the radiator tank fails and lets coolant through). But you can get plastic caps from Clark Rubber, push-in bungs that would at least make it look neat once the lines are disconnected/gone.

9" K@N or Aeroflow filter top and base sealed with pinch weld fits under bonnet with a 2" spacer.

I'm guessing it's a 6 cylinder XE.?

You may need to shut the bonnet and attempt to measure the clearance from underneath. That's what I had to do when I fitted my oval cobra one to my V8.

Many on here will advise running a spacer under the carby, which throws up more challenges fitting a decent size air cleaner.@CHESTNUTXE just offloaded a 250 crossy out of his XF so should know what fits, etc. He ended up cutting a hole in his bonnet to fit the air cleaner he had.

I would use a drop base air cleaner if possible, that allows a taller element for the same height to the top. A lot of factory V8 air cleaners are like this. Maybe try one of those? All US 4 barrel carbies, no matter what brand, will use the same diameter SAE carb flange so will physically fit. Rocker cover and shock tower clearance will of course be a factor.

I don't know how good your fab skills are, but you could even cut and shut a factory Weber oval air cleaner to fit a Holley flange. Yet another option.

A long oval air cleaner might suit your needs as it will clear the rocker cover and shock tower more easily.

The rule of thumb is use the biggest air cleaner you can fit. There really is no downside to "bigger is better" in this case. I cringe when I see a tough engine with a big carby strangled by a pissy chrome air filter that would be small on a 4 cyl.

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