hendrixhc

I just use autosol. Cleans them up very quickly.
As for the stripping the paint i wouldnt bother unless it is flaky. I just clean the wheels down with a degreaser and then mask the polished sections and spray withe caliper paint. 2 very light coats to start off. Like a ghost coat, then lay about 4 or 5 thicker, wet coats.

I can do a how to if anyone is interested in the way i do it.

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Yeah i just use the rag polishing wheels in the kits from bunnings and supercheap. They just go in the drill.

I use 80 grit to get the deep scratches out and gutter rash out then go to 240 then 500 then polish.
If you want a real mirror like finish use some 1200 wet after the 500 and change the buffing wheel regularly for a new one.

Id polish them first then mask them well and paint.
I use the VHT gloss black caliper paint to paint mine. Its hard, heat resistant, flows well and doesnt require primer underneath.
2 years later and it still looks like new with a wash over.

Definitely need the black centres to offset the polished alloy. 

Nice.
They'll clean up a treat and NO you lazy bugger they wont take to much effort to do! Piece of cake.
One thing that really fucks me off with wheels like this is when tyre shops put the wheel weights on the outside like that. It fucks the finish on the rim and they tend to pitt with moisture under the weight. Makes it harder to get a good surface finish on the lip.
 

I can do a how to if anyone is interested in the way i do it.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

I can do a how to if anyone is interested in the way i do it.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

I can do a how to if anyone is interested in the way i do it.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

I can do a how to if anyone is interested in the way i do it.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Id polish them first then mask them well and paint.
I use the VHT gloss black caliper paint to paint mine. Its hard, heat resistant, flows well and doesnt require primer underneath.
2 years later and it still looks like new with a wash over.

Nice.
They'll clean up a treat and NO you lazy bugger they wont take to much effort to do! Piece of cake.
One thing that really fucks me off with wheels like this is when tyre shops put the wheel weights on the outside like that. It fucks the finish on the rim and they tend to pitt with moisture under the weight. Makes it harder to get a good surface finish on the lip.
 

These work quite well in fine grades as well.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/120g-30x-10x-3-2mm-Rotacraft-Flap-Sander-32mm-Disc-Grit-Sanding-Wood/362260373853?epid=1634013121&hash=item545866a15d:g:vpQAAOSwEIJanSsx

You can get drill mounted 2" sanders.
 
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/50x-2-50mm-Sander-Paper-Sandpaper-pad-Disc-Polishing-Pad-M6-Backer-Plate-Set/253468840445?epid=2264928348&hash=item3b03eb91fd:g:R~wAAOSw68lanQ~L

Main reason for me is looks.
Ill be putting larger injectors in anways. Just wondering if anyone had ever seen them.
 
Idid hear the factory ones corrode internally. Dont know if its true or not.
 

Yeah i just use the rag polishing wheels in the kits from bunnings and supercheap. They just go in the drill.

I use 80 grit to get the deep scratches out and gutter rash out then go to 240 then 500 then polish.
If you want a real mirror like finish use some 1200 wet after the 500 and change the buffing wheel regularly for a new one.

I use 80 grit to get the deep scratches out and gutter rash out then go to 240 then 500 then polish.
If you want a real mirror like finish use some 1200 wet after the 500 and change the buffing wheel regularly for a new one.

Id polish them first then mask them well and paint.
I use the VHT gloss black caliper paint to paint mine. Its hard, heat resistant, flows well and doesnt require primer underneath.
2 years later and it still looks like new with a wash over.

Definitely need the black centres to offset the polished alloy. 

Everything else is crap other than genuine, Dave is right, they are no longer available. If you can’t find an auto electrician that can rebuild one properly use these guys
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F222751260976
 

Only if you're going with no intercooler (far from ideal) or a water to air over the top of the engine. The old pre bbm log makes it easier to plumb intercooler pipework and makes for a far shorter inlet tract to run an air to air front mount, which is the cheapest option.

You only have to untape a couple of little bit and it will reach

Yes yes and yes
Only for outright power, for street drivability a BBM works better

Cheers. Look like ill have to start tidying up the BBM instead of the log.
It will be easier to run intake piping to as well for the snail.