SPArKy_Dave

it's still going to have the clicky click issue with a new battery most likely, arcing/tarnish on the solenoid contacts internally

To eliminate the MAF, just un-plug it, and see what happens.
it should start/run regardless.
The computer has a base program it uses, in case of failure.
 
If the IAC valve is sticking or gummed up, this can cause surging, by the computer constantly over/under adjusting it,
whilst attempting to set an expected idle speed.

That's the stock locknut, they're crimped on the end.
Overtightened in the past maybe? (apprentice mechanic ugga-dugga's)

I'm probably not one to advise either, tbh...
I used to run my XF wagon, with the oil light flashing at idle on hot days.
 
I just thought it must be on the worn side, till I had the bright idea to fit a new oil switch one day.
Problem solved...
 
At the same time, I tested the pressure with a manual gauge.
25psi at idle from memory.
40-50psi whilst holding revs around 3k-ish rpm.
 
 

I can't advise any oil pressure numbers, it's likely listed in the gregorys etc though, 
feel free to start a project thread to document anything you do in the build. 
i could retitle this thread as your own even if it's mostly crossflow related 
 
@SPArKy_Dave may have more info, as he does checks like this due to being more meticulous. (I've either got someone to reco a full engine or chucked in a second hand one, and that's usually not oil pressure related, just extreme wear overall)
 

That's the stock locknut, they're crimped on the end.
Overtightened in the past maybe? (apprentice mechanic ugga-dugga's)

The BW40 selector shaft seal, is same as the BTR 4speed.
 
It's just a small lock nut, with a flat washer behind it.
The shift lever is held in position, via the selector shaft having two flat sides.
 
 

can see the FATNESS of the koni and the pedders, this makes all the difference, CONTROLLING THE SPRING. the white pedders i've had in a standard height car and they are great for stock height upgrade in my opinion
 
 
bump steer city,. 
if you drive it in Melburbs and on the highway it will not be a pleasure to drive compared to LOWS. (also looks too low to Me also)

@CHESTNUTXE's replica ESP -
 

 
Before

 
After

 
Oh no!

some people like to drive their cars

King Lows with crap standard shocks ots very likely hitting bump stops .if the bump stops have been cut its likely bottom out the shock also 

i know when i did those slides i wouldn't have had anything other than wheel bearing grease or never seize (silver stuff) and from memory that's what i used (silver anti seize)
Just make sure they slide in the holders easily (they get like a slot worn in them being alloy, i remember ditching one of the retaining clips once and just letting it sit there held by the pins) anti seize the pins also, make sure they slide easily. 
if the rubber hose from the diff to the caliper is original and 40yrs old it could be the issue also, swelling under pressure and not bleeding back (i guess if you wanted to risk it, swap it left to right, but these can also be the source of much pain in the backside undoing the rusty nuts on the line)
I got charged $400 once due to "getting a mechanic" to do the job because i didn't want to.. i told them i'd have bought another diff if it was that hard and had a go at them (was a weeks wages back then). they said it was the worst day of their lives lol..but it's fixed now properly with warranty. grr i never had issues again at least
 

Arg I'm so aggravated with this caliper. After the rebuild I re-assembled everything. I bled the brakes, no leaks nothing, but the right rear is dragging and getting hot. I don't understand why. The handbrake lever is moving freely and fully returning (and working) but the brake still drags. Any ideas? Only that one side is dragging. I never touched the other side apart from bleeding (fully flushed the brake fluid).

Hey Dave. I didn't see your post until after I had everything put back together and bled but I had done it the opposite way - piston screwed down first then the seal pushed in around the sides. After I saw your post I decided to pull it apart again and check, and yeah the dust seal had already started pulling out so it's a good thing I did. 
 
Managed to get it back together using your method (not easily, though). The damaged piston top did not damage the seal thankfully. 
 
Thanks for the advice, it's all looking good now. 

My suggestion, is to start from scratch.
 
Disassemble completely,
clean up the caliper body fully, including the hand brake mechanism, use plenty of silicone grease on the thread mechanism,
new seals or re-use seals, if ok.
 
I'd try an ultrasonic cleaner, if u have access to one?
 
The piston dust seal goes in the caliper body first, then the piston is pushed into the middle
and seated at it's fully compressed position.
 
Ur likely going to need a new piston, as the damaged side surface, may catch and tear the dust seal?

it should be in the gregorys manual, i don't have one available, and i haven't ever pulled one of these apart. 
@SPArKy_Dave may help. 
 
i feel your pain, i preferred drum brakes after dealing with these. 

These callipers are really doing my head in - this must be the worst-designed part I have worked with.
Any advice for getting this seal done? If I try attaching it to the piston first I thought I would be able to push it down into its internal groove, but I am struggling to do so. I don't see any way I could insert it into the internal groove then fit the bottom of the piston through the seal. What am I missing here?
 
Also yeah I know the piston is pretty chewed up. Half of that damage was done before I started, other half is struggling with adjustable pliers getting the damn thing out. The sealing surfaces still look fine.
 

Really helpful thanks Sparky Dave!

They almost look like XE rear disc calipers?
From memory, the earlier ones need the axles removed, to replace the disc itself?
 
I'd probably use some heat on the slides/bushes, before attempting to drive out the slide pins.
Those spring clips need to be removed also.
 
I'd probably pull them apart and fit new seals, as a minimum.
 
Protex or IBS, are likely the only ones making new rubber kits for these calipers now.
 
DB3099 - Left Piston (dual keyway piston and thread mech)
DB3100 - Right Piston (dual keyway piston and thread mech)
DB2694 - (dual keyway piston, no thread mech)
DB2925 - (later single keyway piston)
 
K1199S - Caliper Repair Kit
 
Ford-specific calper piston wind-back tools -
Dual Keyway - https://www.tetools.com/disc-brake-tool-ford~13875
Single Keyway - https://www.tetools.com/disc-brake-tool-ford~13876
 
ebay universal kit - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/303466852133 (cheap price)
 

Pretty sure the BW40 was introduced in XE when they switched to the EFI 6 instead of the V8.

Use whatever fluid is recommended for the box that it has.
Dex3 is not a GM Product, it may have originally been a GM specification but Ford have definitely recommended it too.

I personally use Penrite ATF FS in my BW40, seems to shift smoother and stay clean longer.

Yes, fitted a brand new set of injectors. I even swapped a few around on Sunday (I didn't include that in my post), just for shits and giggles, however, samy same. I'm making up a jumper to take the pulse direct from the plug at the ECU to the injector, bypassing the entire harness. I just have to isolate the injector power feed and the #1 wire pos on the ECU plug to tap into and run the injector in remote mode. I'll also run it with the belt off, to make sure there is zero interference from the alternator. If it still misses it's got to be the driver in the ECU which grounds each injector in the correct sequence.
When the weather allows, I'll get into it this week, as I'll have to collect the XF from the farm and start work on that.

Mine misses from the get go.  The HLA's are working, oil is flowing from their bleed holes, valve springs in #1 are good, no sticking valves. Cam lobes and rockers and bearings are perfect. However, the spark plug is clean, whilst the others are sooty from the short running on cold start it's been doing lately. No valve gear noise of any kind, so that rules out the rocker gear.
 
Your oily plugs are likely bad or broken valve stem seals, quite common in crossflows. You also could have an exhaust valve seat recessing, taking up the lash adjustment in the lifter and holding the valve off the seat as it heats up and expands. Mine? Still working on it.

All solved

Sorry mate, XD

Which model falcon are u referring to?... we probably need to see pics, to give helpful comments.
If u can get help, I'd remove/fit the screen myself, rather than the 'pro's'.