bear351c

Good news Jim.  I would just change the pushrods, if your camera shows no pitting on the cam lobes. If you replace the lifters, just go through normal cam break in procedure.
Assembly lube, run at 1800-2500 for 20 mins, etc, etc,
 
Let us know how ya get on. 

I kept at it and #5 is all bouncy bouncy on the spring now.  She was stuck full up which is good I think in regards to being bent.
 
this engine was rebuilt and run about 3000 miles, in a 60s Ford econoline that the guy couldn't keep cool so he took it out.  In my old Bronco she runs cool just fine.  It sat in my garage for 3 years and longer in the garage of the guy I bought it from.  Clean, but I think valve stem moisture/rust is the issue?  I lubed the crank and spun it over with no coil before start up, but I wish I had pulled the valve covers and spun it by hand checking the valvetrain before installing also....
 
Since the valve freed up and bounces on the spring, I am going to go through all the lifters individually and clean and lube and put back in place, I'd like to keep them matched to the cam.  I have a nice milwaukee camera to inspect the cam.  I don't mind buying new lifters at all, just thinking keeping them matched is a good idea??
 
I guess I'll get 3 new rocker arms, so all 12 match, and the 2 that had pushrod issues are a little dinged up where the pushrod contacts them.  New is better than dressing them up.
 
lifters are cheap, I don't mind getting new ones, but I was thinking they are worn to the cam and keeping them? Its not a lot of miles, I dunno?I can see no wear indications on the one lifter I have pulled so far, looks new.   
 
I don't even mind buying roller rocker arms, but then I don't know what I have to change on the pushrods, so maybe keep it simple and stick with stock rocker arms.
 
thank you --Jim
 
 
 
 

Good advice Bear, I'll add that the valve might be stuck from rust due to moisture getting in somehow, in which case the guide could chop out if there is pitting on the valve stem. It could also have a bend in it, causing it to bind at certain lifts.

I have had a guide grab a valve on a fresh engine while on its maiden voyage (Mercedes bus) and it was a fault with whoever the reco'd of the head (guide too tight).

Was one of the odd rockers on the valve that was stuck? Is it possible that they were replaced for the same reason?

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Hi Jim,
 
I think the rockers are just different year/model, that's all.  (Same as 351 Cleveland I reckon) HT900 lifters are usually all thats required for a stock engine, but, my concern would be re-using the lifters. For the cost, I'd pull them all, keep them in order, and inspect carefully for damage. More concerned about the possible damage to the cam.  Maybe drop the oil filter and check inside for metal filings/glitter. 
 
If all looks OK, I would change the pushrods and lifters.  
 
Did you run the shitty old petrol/gas in it.?  Can cause varnish to build up on the valve stems, and hold valves open. 

Hi Jim,
 
I think the rockers are just different year/model, that's all.  (Same as 351 Cleveland I reckon) HT900 lifters are usually all thats required for a stock engine, but, my concern would be re-using the lifters. For the cost, I'd pull them all, keep them in order, and inspect carefully for damage. More concerned about the possible damage to the cam.  Maybe drop the oil filter and check inside for metal filings/glitter. 
 
If all looks OK, I would change the pushrods and lifters.  
 
Did you run the shitty old petrol/gas in it.?  Can cause varnish to build up on the valve stems, and hold valves open. 

all the later 351m/400 blocks were cast in CF or Michigan foundry,and most of the early ones were cast at the dearborn foundry,i have done 4 400s now and the most common in australia is the DIF dearborn blocks that came out of early 70s gals,then when our xa fairlane and ltd were released around 72 the usa gal was not as popular anymore,so a surplus of early 400 blocks are common to find but not this one shes a 1980 cleveland foundry block and only one i have seen or come across,i still have the D1AE high nickel block and just getting some idears what to do with it,its too rare to just build a mild hyd engine out of it,i have everything to rebuild it bar a crank and rods cause i used it in this engine,but temeyer does the 444 c.i kit which is on the menu.

i will disagree with you on that one as it was me who took the plugs out,this was a 351m block that had never been rebuilt b4 and i got it a week after taken out of the f truck,look at the casting meat bosses around the plugs its no different to the other ones just a larger hole for some reason just remember this was a final revised 1980 block anyway makes a good talking point.

Welsh plug was probably butchered out with a cold chisel, and damaged the block, causing a leak.  Easy to bore it out, nothing behind it, nothing next to it. No way Henry would fork out extra money for a bigger brass plug. He was a tight ar53. LOL.

Welsh plug was probably butchered out with a cold chisel, and damaged the block, causing a leak.  Easy to bore it out, nothing behind it, nothing next to it. No way Henry would fork out extra money for a bigger brass plug. He was a tight ar53. LOL.

Welsh plug was probably butchered out with a cold chisel, and damaged the block, causing a leak.  Easy to bore it out, nothing behind it, nothing next to it. No way Henry would fork out extra money for a bigger brass plug. He was a tight ar53. LOL.

The stock diff will be a 25 spline, 2-pinion open centre with a 2.92 or 2.78 ratio, and drum brakes. Not exactly up to the punishment of a built V8 and stout manual box.

Depending on how strict your motor certification rules are, you may or may not need discs in the back as they were mandatory on XD and XE V8 models, along with LSD. I converted mine to a 302 and did this diff swap.

I would strongly advise getting the later, beefier 28-spline axle diff and LSD, as well as the disc brakes. EA-ED should bolt straight in. Mine still runs 25 spline and the axles are starting to twist (had one out the other day).

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Putting a V8 in an Aussie Falcon is pretty easy. Just engine mount plates and not sure about crossmember with a C4 but can't be too hard. Everything else should just drop in. Exhausts will be much easier with a Windsor, they are a lot smaller than a Clevo.

Like Bear said, the range of cost is a big one because there are so many ways to go (wreckers engine, stock rebuilt, mild/moderate build, extreme build). Just remember that the more you spend on getting horsepower, the more you will spend on the rest of the car for it to handle it.

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not sure about windsor into XE, i would expect very similar to cleveland. 
you'll need a C4 specific gear shifter compared to the 6cyl one. the tailshaft from the 6cyl will fit, the speedo sender will need a C4 specific gear fitted for the diff ratio you are keeping.
 
V8 XA to XE base mounts will allow the engine to bolt up directly (6cyl ones unbolt from the cross member and V8 ones bolt in place)
radiator hoses might need  to use a join in the top hose, but the bottom might fit depending on water pump you have. 
 
you'll need to research which extractors fit those heads and then into XA to XE 
 
accelerator cable from the 6cyl can reach if you get the right carby bracket that pulls from the rear of the engine otherwise you'll need a longer XE V8 cable that pulls from the front. 
 
wiring wise you'll have to see if the C4 has the inhibitor switch on it, there would be a short loom adapter back 30yrs ago, but you'll probably have to cut and join wires to suit (3 for the speedo will remain same) 2 thinner wires for reverse lights, 2 larger ones are neutral/park wires. 
 
unwrapping the tape of the engine wires (oil pressure, temp, ign, alternator etc) will usually reach everything on a cleveland V8 i assume a windsor will be similar. 

you'll be figuring out some slight differences, but i reckon that will be most of it. 
 
(you can convert a cleveland V8 into a 6cyl XE over a weekend if you have everything ... i did it 25yrs ago with a fairlane donor car) 

Hi men thanks for your responses it was as I expected not really going to know the damage until I get it done I guess? I’m looking at the following engine thoughts on what else I may need:
 
Windsor motor out of a XR two door Falcon imported from the USA has been bored out 30 thou which makes it a 306 has alloy edelbrock heads a trickflow rollacam edelbrock manifold 700 double pumper carb with extractors new starter motor alternator dizzy also has electronic msd ignition. The gear box is a fresh c4 with a shift kit and a 3500 stall converter

Do they have a twist and lock cap on the pump filler??  Theres an O-ring on that.

Just waiting on my bolt set hope will arrive during the week so can wrap this build up and will be asking $3900 then invest on a car or blow it on the other 400

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Clevo's had 2 sizes didn't they..??   Original ones were straight tube, and a stepped tube.?

Oil pimp is on with screen and hex drv i also checked rod bolt torque 40lbs and thats about as far as i can go because my new bolt set hasnt arrived from the states but later we can swing the motor over and put some heads on it

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Kilkenny castings, or GTFord Performance got any.??

Clevo's had 2 sizes didn't they..??   Original ones were straight tube, and a stepped tube.?

Cool stuff. Yeah, those original Morse chains are fine for stock builds, and super quiet. Not that you'll hear it over the 400. LOL.

Cool stuff. Yeah, those original Morse chains are fine for stock builds, and super quiet. Not that you'll hear it over the 400. LOL.

1st piston is in and chex out this fatty single chain that came in the revuild kit ,tbh these are fine for std rebuild

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Im selling this one i still have the high nickel block to build for myself bear and still looking for wheels to put it in.

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Looks sweet.  Cant wait to hear it rumble......