bear351c

Agreed. Do it once and forget about it.

Go for it. rub the rust back and prime it and then spray out the whole bay.
 
Dont waste time filling holes or smoothing unless you are going for a show car. Its amazing how much different a clean bay looks.
 
Id just use some 80 grit on an orby or a 120 grit flappy disk on a grinder to clean up that rust and spray it out.

You'll be happy with a warmed over Clevo. Don't overthink it, just carb, cam, inlet manifold, ignition and extractors.
 
Don't rev her over 5 grand, last for years and enough torque to pull a house. If you want to go racing.......well, that's a WHOLE different Cleveland.

Probably cost... They're about 5 times the price of your regular power valve but also people have just broadly accepted that you can't get economy out of a Holley, so don't bother chasing it. They aren't recommended on performance carbys, so I wouldn't use one on anything bigger than say a 600 square.

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Yeah, did the same with my Fairmont. Kept every part in the shed, in case I wanted to put it back to stock

Yeah, did the same with my Fairmont. Kept every part in the shed, in case I wanted to put it back to stock

Yeah, did the same with my Fairmont. Kept every part in the shed, in case I wanted to put it back to stock

Yeah, did the same with my Fairmont. Kept every part in the shed, in case I wanted to put it back to stock

Wow..!    This is going to be spectacular.  Well done mate, all the good gear, in a sweet little Esky. Will go like stink, and stop on a dime!

Bah ha ha..........that's never happened to me. Not even once....
 
Small drill press mill with a fly cutter, and cross drive table would be nice.

Yup, reckon you're right.  I have watched a guy on Utoob who actually mills the faces to get them flat again, Serious carby guy.! 

I was thinking the same thing Bear, the surfaces aren't machined so maybe they rely on thick gaskets to take up any wonkiness in the as-cast finish.

Holleys in particular have lots of circuits going through tiny passages in the gasket surfaces, so any small gaps between these circuits might have cross-feeding and affect the tune.

For a carby that's made in Japan, I can't say the casting quality is terribly good. Maybe Holley farmed it out to a Japanese factory very early on when Japanese quality wasn't quite what it had become by the 80s. These were a 70s replacement for a Quadrajet so I guess they may have cut corners to get it to market quickly.

I don't really know if making everything dead-flat has an effect on how well it works but I figured it wouldn't hurt do do it right while it's in bits

Those blank holes@gregaust mentioned are the ones that go under the power valve cavities? I drilled and tapped those too so I now have 8 x 6mm screws holding it all together.

Next is assembling the bowls and internals... And buy a wideband kit to tune it

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Master at work. They are shockingly warped, all the ones I've pulled apart.  Maybe that's why the gaskets are so thick.?  😂

They usually only have 6 base plate screws , 2 spare holes . 

Cheers, mate.  I got a new power valve in the Holley kit, but, was interested in the numbers.  
 
I tried my local Adelaide Speed shop (Outlaw), and VPW, nil stock....
 

LOL. Just doing the same thing here.........
 
 
 

Well mum finally arrived with my Holley... imagine a woman in her 60s going through airport security with a big lump of 4 barrel carby in her bag
 
Carby looks good on the outside, throttles are a bit stiff, the lever that's peened onto the throttle shaft is flopping around like a cock in a sock, filled the bowls with wash solvent and worked the throttles, no acc pump working either end, but no obvious fuel leaks there generally.
 
Choke port hadn't been blocked after choke delete, so would have had a vac leak there.
 
Gaskets all came off intact, but there were signs of moisture and dried fuel in everything. Acc pump diaphragms both solid, crunchy and falling to bits. Bowls are a bit corroded but floats and needles seem fine.
 
Someone's been in this carby before, as the jets don't seem anywhere near right for the application.... 57 front, 68 rear. They should be more like 60 front and somewhere in the 70s or 80s rear.l, especially since this one doesn't have a rear power valve so needs extra jetting to compensate.
 
Some missing/bodgy screws in the base plate, missing circlip on the primary pump arm, all choke hardware has been deleted. Also they'd pinched an o-ring on the fuel transfer tube, so it would have pissed fuel everywhere.
 
Primary power valve seized open, and unmarked (likely to be standard 6.5)
 
Throttle shafts seem tight without slop, now freed up with a bit of solvent and working.
 
Overall, it looks like it had done a lot of work then sat around for years in storage, but the biggest issues with it are bad assembly and missing parts, all fixable with a rebuild.
 
Here's what I can see so far:
57 primary jets
68 secondary
25 primary squirter
37 secondary
White primary pump cam
Brown secondary
Unmarked power valve
Secondary blanked off
 
Pinched o-ring

 
Buggered diaphragms

 
Made in Japan!

 
Lots of carbon buildup in the power valve cavity

 
Blanked off power valve

 
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You'll be happy with a warmed over Clevo. Don't overthink it, just carb, cam, inlet manifold, ignition and extractors.
 
Don't rev her over 5 grand, last for years and enough torque to pull a house. If you want to go racing.......well, that's a WHOLE different Cleveland.

You'll be happy with a warmed over Clevo. Don't overthink it, just carb, cam, inlet manifold, ignition and extractors.
 
Don't rev her over 5 grand, last for years and enough torque to pull a house. If you want to go racing.......well, that's a WHOLE different Cleveland.

🤔 I'm leaning toward the roller... Options soooooo many options.
Maybe I'm overthinking it...A standard 351C will feel like a rocket after driving 3.0 TD Nissan Patrol (daily driver) 😂.

True. I've watched a few of his vids. I'm guessing that Mitch is a new builder, and not keen to start drilling out a head. 😁

The castings from 1970 were average at best, if you stick a standard inlet gasket onto a small port Clevo head you'll see what I mean. I'm not talking full port and polish, just match the inlet port, to the manifold, exhaust port to the extractors, using a store bought gasket. It's not hard work, just a lick with a die grinder, its free HP...
 
Unshrouding the valves is great if you know how, but, not for the beginner. The hours involved in getting all 8 ports to flow similar, and the added weight of cast iron, just cheaper to buy an aftermarket head. They weren't around 25 years ago, so keen builders did what they could. Nowadays you can grab some AFD, CHI, or SCM heads. 

Vizard did an episode on valve shrouding and it's interesting to see his view on it. He takes the bare minimum to achieve the results and no more. It's all in where you remove metal and not how much

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The castings from 1970 were average at best, if you stick a standard inlet gasket onto a small port Clevo head you'll see what I mean. I'm not talking full port and polish, just match the inlet port, to the manifold, exhaust port to the extractors, using a store bought gasket. It's not hard work, just a lick with a die grinder, its free HP...
 
Unshrouding the valves is great if you know how, but, not for the beginner. The hours involved in getting all 8 ports to flow similar, and the added weight of cast iron, just cheaper to buy an aftermarket head. They weren't around 25 years ago, so keen builders did what they could. Nowadays you can grab some AFD, CHI, or SCM heads. 

The castings from 1970 were average at best, if you stick a standard inlet gasket onto a small port Clevo head you'll see what I mean. I'm not talking full port and polish, just match the inlet port, to the manifold, exhaust port to the extractors, using a store bought gasket. It's not hard work, just a lick with a die grinder, its free HP...
 
Unshrouding the valves is great if you know how, but, not for the beginner. The hours involved in getting all 8 ports to flow similar, and the added weight of cast iron, just cheaper to buy an aftermarket head. They weren't around 25 years ago, so keen builders did what they could. Nowadays you can grab some AFD, CHI, or SCM heads.