gerg

Just used $100 Clevo ones mate, really nothing flash. Yours should take XR-XY Windsor ones if the engine mounts are similar, also depending on your bellhousing being a left or right hand starter mount.

Clutch cable might be an issue too, I remember my 6 cyl Cortina eating clutch cables because they ran too close to the extractors. I ended up getting a custom longer one made that I could route away from the heat, solved it from then on.

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They're a big friggin lump of an engine in the flesh...
Just like a Cleveland, only bigger and chunkier in every way.

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It's 50 bucks bro, go for the higher comp ones

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Pro comp... Nooooooooo!

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I reckon for shuts n giggles, dress it up like a stocker 4.9 with the silver rocker covers and air filter... See how many you can fool

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They come up smick with a blast.. well worth it if you ask me

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Oh Lord no, it probably had a turbo or blower attached to it.
 
I'd be well happy with 300hp in the old girl, she wouldn't know what hit her! Planning to get the motor in, get it engineered and collect some bits and pull it out later in the year for a freshen up and warming over.
 
Worth tracking down a pair of GT40P heads now?
 

That looks nice, it didn't make 795hp at the tyres by itself though. There was obviously some extra lung capacity shoved down it to make that number.

I think your heads will be the limitation on your 302. They'll be the E7TEs with tiny ports and even worse exhausts. It wouldn't matter what intake you put on, they're good for about 300hp with a reasonable street cam. There's a reason why Ford went to the GT40P heads for their performance versions. You could tidy up your stockers if you're feeling sporty with the die grinder, you can make them ok I guess.

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On the subject of starters... If a LH mounted one uses the same as a RH V8, you can mod a BA 6 cyl one (plenty of threads on here show you how), they're compact, readily available and cheap.
 
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On the subject of starters... If a LH mounted one uses the same as a RH V8, you can mod a BA 6 cyl one (plenty of threads on here show you how), they're compact, readily available and cheap.
 
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On that subject.... I went through this whole T5 to V8 thing a few years back, the problem is that there was no factory T5/V8 combo until the E-series came out, which has a deeper bellhousing by 16mm and longer input to suit. So you need to know what T5 will bolt to the bellhousing you're getting and also what tooth count your flywheel will need to be to match it (157 or 164). The flywheel needs to be a later (post-82) 50oz imbalance vs the earlier 28oz.
 
I ended up using the 6 cyl T5 out of my EA/EF which has the same input shaft length as X and E-series 6s and the older, pre-XF V8s, (ie T5, Toploader and single rail). I used an old Toploader iron bellhousing modified to suit the T5 bolt pattern, which was to suit the 164 tooth Clevo flywheel. It works, nothing broken yet.
 
If your bellhousing is the shorter input type, ie to suit the 6 cylinder T5s, I'd advise to use the EB2-ED ratio box with the 3.25 1st gear. Mine is shorter at 3.50 and it's a bit too short for my liking. The EB/ED boxes also have a taller 5th gear.
 
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Pic

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After spending a lot of time cleaning this block it's come up quite nice and all it needs now is a bore and hone and 1 more hot wash,I would say 95%of the rust has been removed and well worth it

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Thanks for that, I can use standard pre xf V8 mounts. The starter will be on the left and clutch fork on the right. 
Might have to look at some heat shielding. 

i'd definitely get a heat sleeve (fitted a bit on My clutch cable and the accel cable of My crossflow) and i made a shield to clamp onto the extractors also for same reason (heat to starter motor also)

Just used $100 Clevo ones mate, really nothing flash. Yours should take XR-XY Windsor ones if the engine mounts are similar, also depending on your bellhousing being a left or right hand starter mount.

Clutch cable might be an issue too, I remember my 6 cyl Cortina eating clutch cables because they ran too close to the extractors. I ended up getting a custom longer one made that I could route away from the heat, solved it from then on.

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Yep I got the CRS bellhousing. There are two for the 302/5.0, you need to make sure you get the one for the EFI motor. It is cable, which is fine by me.
 
@gerg the CRS bellhousing uses the 157 tooth flywheel. So I'll hunt down one of them with the 50oz imbalance, and a clutch pack to suit. I'll also need to get the shorter EF V8 clutch cable, but that should be difficult as all this stuff is readily available now. A quick search on Google bought up a heap of shops, as well as Ebay, that has it all in stock.
 
I also picked up the imp-metric adaptor for the diff brake lines to the XF.
 
 

On that subject.... I went through this whole T5 to V8 thing a few years back, the problem is that there was no factory T5/V8 combo until the E-series came out, which has a deeper bellhousing by 16mm and longer input to suit. So you need to know what T5 will bolt to the bellhousing you're getting and also what tooth count your flywheel will need to be to match it (157 or 164). The flywheel needs to be a later (post-82) 50oz imbalance vs the earlier 28oz.
 
I ended up using the 6 cyl T5 out of my EA/EF which has the same input shaft length as X and E-series 6s and the older, pre-XF V8s, (ie T5, Toploader and single rail). I used an old Toploader iron bellhousing modified to suit the T5 bolt pattern, which was to suit the 164 tooth Clevo flywheel. It works, nothing broken yet.
 
If your bellhousing is the shorter input type, ie to suit the 6 cylinder T5s, I'd advise to use the EB2-ED ratio box with the 3.25 1st gear. Mine is shorter at 3.50 and it's a bit too short for my liking. The EB/ED boxes also have a taller 5th gear.
 
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On that subject.... I went through this whole T5 to V8 thing a few years back, the problem is that there was no factory T5/V8 combo until the E-series came out, which has a deeper bellhousing by 16mm and longer input to suit. So you need to know what T5 will bolt to the bellhousing you're getting and also what tooth count your flywheel will need to be to match it (157 or 164). The flywheel needs to be a later (post-82) 50oz imbalance vs the earlier 28oz.
 
I ended up using the 6 cyl T5 out of my EA/EF which has the same input shaft length as X and E-series 6s and the older, pre-XF V8s, (ie T5, Toploader and single rail). I used an old Toploader iron bellhousing modified to suit the T5 bolt pattern, which was to suit the 164 tooth Clevo flywheel. It works, nothing broken yet.
 
If your bellhousing is the shorter input type, ie to suit the 6 cylinder T5s, I'd advise to use the EB2-ED ratio box with the 3.25 1st gear. Mine is shorter at 3.50 and it's a bit too short for my liking. The EB/ED boxes also have a taller 5th gear.
 
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On that subject.... I went through this whole T5 to V8 thing a few years back, the problem is that there was no factory T5/V8 combo until the E-series came out, which has a deeper bellhousing by 16mm and longer input to suit. So you need to know what T5 will bolt to the bellhousing you're getting and also what tooth count your flywheel will need to be to match it (157 or 164). The flywheel needs to be a later (post-82) 50oz imbalance vs the earlier 28oz.
 
I ended up using the 6 cyl T5 out of my EA/EF which has the same input shaft length as X and E-series 6s and the older, pre-XF V8s, (ie T5, Toploader and single rail). I used an old Toploader iron bellhousing modified to suit the T5 bolt pattern, which was to suit the 164 tooth Clevo flywheel. It works, nothing broken yet.
 
If your bellhousing is the shorter input type, ie to suit the 6 cylinder T5s, I'd advise to use the EB2-ED ratio box with the 3.25 1st gear. Mine is shorter at 3.50 and it's a bit too short for my liking. The EB/ED boxes also have a taller 5th gear.
 
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I dunno why, but they sound cool

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Good ones are starting to pull into the $500 ish range if they are proved to be a good runner, especially if its motor and box, early falcons are really popular right now, at least the pre crossflows can be made to sound pretty good with a dual exhaust (if you do go that route then you'd be able to keep most of the same exhaust with the windsor) its all because of the shared centre exhaust port combined with a set of split headers makes them sound good, you can pick up power by putting a divider in that port but then they sound exactly like a crossflow, here's a couple of videos of pre xflow's with dual exhaust

Yep, the exhaust valve is cracked.  Needed to find my valve spring compressor, to be sure. Thought the valve just had a scratch on on the base, to go along with all the other damage, but, I cut up an old ring spanner and used a C-clamp, necessity is the mother an all that.........  
 

 
Valve is cactus.........

 
But, on a good note, one of the sump pan bolts that was snapped off flush, has been persuaded to part company with the block. Good ole left handed drill bits....
 

 
 
Numbers are starting to add up, now.  Full gasket set, mains, big ends, welshies, exhaust valve, rings, paint...... not sure its worth the effort. This was just a boredom project while I was babysitting the Corona virus, not sure the 170 is worth $300-400 to anyone. I thought I might have to stick it in the Hardtop (rego red tape in SA.......don't get me started) but She'll be V8 swapped anyways.  Still would need to check the trans, diff, find some misc bolts, starter motor, radiator etc.....  
 
Prob think better when I'm back on the REAL Corona's......

They're a big friggin lump of an engine in the flesh...
Just like a Cleveland, only bigger and chunkier in every way.

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The last one I did i basically just neatened up the castings in the exhaust ports and concentrated on the bowl area/cleaning up reshaping the guides, I think I only spent about 1/2 an hour on each port, woke it up though, I wish I still has pics of the 170 head I ported for my old xp, these pics are from the 250 head I milled the carb flange off and made a 2 barrel holley adapter