Clevo120Y

You can go high 10's on comp with straight gas, I would use the C2 head as gas likes lots of chamber swirl to produce torque, if your going to use the EFI manifold then weld up the injector bosses so you can grind out that section to match the head, that section of manifold has a small cross sectional area so it needs to be opened right up and then matched to the runner tubes as well.
The 86 block has a 1 piece rear main the same as e series blocks, the 84 also has a 1 piece but it is a different size, I always like to run an EF crank in a 86 block as like Tony said I find them smoother.
Head work, well I'm always going to recommend some porting hahaha but with gas I would run a bigger exhaust valve, gas likes more exhaust flow. Intake if the budget allows to run a 1.84 valve then do it, a nice 3 angle seat and a backcut on the valve and your golden.
That cam will suit what your after in my opinion.
PS you don't get a block balanced you can get the rotating assembly balanced but in this application I wouldn't really worry about it.

Agree with Sly, Jason/TF 250 had a roller cammed crossy it is dual pattern cam and his cortina was good for 11.5.
 
I would agree with all the above, but how is your supply of LPG. Just make sure your supply of LPG is stable in quality. The better the fuel quality the higher compression you can run.
 
Not long ago I was planning a mild crossflow. Machining alone was going to be $2500 but that did include balancing. That was all new bearing, new cam and lifters, new balancer, crank grind/linish and head work. The bill will rise pretty quick if you need new pistons and a rebore, new valve spring, new valves/oversize valves which means seat size change. Funnily enough the machining work on my roller cammed crossy was only not that much more than the mild rebuild but I already had a few of the parts needed.

Ef crank if you can get one, std bottom end
 
I'd go a c2 head with efi pistons. This will give a fair whack of compression but you machine down the toungue in the chamber to reduce hot spots for pinging.
 
Standard valvegear should be ok for that too.
 
With the camtech cam it will be a torquey little bitch and pull like a serial masturbator between 1500 and 3k. I find mine is a bit meh over 3k but it has more to do with the efi manifold. I'm working on a eb manifold conversion to resolve that shortly. That should help with a boost related issue down the track.

While where talking about this. I have a 200 rod crossy In the shed small 208 cam 10points of comp or there abouts its done 8000 km was on LPG and was built for it. went good in a auto 2.7 geared falcon I could not use it for boost so its in the corner mint engine $2500 may be another option over building one 

I have little to offer on this LPG is for BBQs but seem to work with a windmill  most of its been covered anyways

No ones ban me for trying to sell one of the engines I no longer use

Cheers, I'll work with the 84 DA block then
 
 
Cheers for the tips, I'll definitely take those on board. I haven't set a budget yet, I don't want to spend huge $$$, but I do want to things right the first time.
 
Ah silly me, it's the crank + pulley etc that gets balanced, might not do it if you say its not needed, though I will probably get a new crank pulley anyway.
 
 
 
Crap, meant to put CT142 503B-110a @ 208. Rev range of 1400-5000, which is one step down from the previous cam I quoted. I have heard that Crossflows do not like dual pattern cams, but it may be different when on LPG, as LPG seems to like bigger exhaust. I know a guy who can do custom grind cams so I may speak to him and see what he would recommend. Around town is where I want this car to shine. Cheers for the info.

Well Ken Moss has the fastest NAT ASP xflow and uses a dual pattern cam...I guess you can say they work.For gas I'd use a dual pattern anyway.Even if it was only for a tad more exhaust duration then inlet but same lift values.

You may find that cam a little bit big for LPG, especially an Impco 225, you might want to step back to a cam around 208 degrees, the lack of vacuum when using that cam with LPG will make the car a bit doughy off the line, I've used it before on LPG setups and found it to be a little underwhelming below 2500 rpm barely better than a stock setup.
 
The 225 will run out of puff before the cam will anyway as they only tend to run out to 4200-4400rpm.
 
Crow has a good dual pattern cam part number 14776 which is 204@50thou IN and 214@50thou EX, LSA 112 degrees, rpm range 1500-4500, while I haven't used this cam personally...Yet, I 've had more than a few blokes who run LPG tell me it works really well with the 225/EFI manifold setup as the rpm range of the cam pretty much matches the maximum flow rate of the 225, and provide excellent low down and mid range torque as well as excellent economy.
 
The Camtech cam you listed is a good cam but it is definitely better suited to petrol setups, I used it on my XC with two different type of LPG setup and it was good out on the highway and had plenty of legs which matched the impco 425 that I was using, but it was hard to live with around town and it was embarrassing having some spikey haired little punk in a corolla smash my XC off a set of lights up to 60 km/h.
 
As for comp ratio aim for 10:1 or slightly higher, that will work well with LPG.

You can go high 10's on comp with straight gas, I would use the C2 head as gas likes lots of chamber swirl to produce torque, if your going to use the EFI manifold then weld up the injector bosses so you can grind out that section to match the head, that section of manifold has a small cross sectional area so it needs to be opened right up and then matched to the runner tubes as well.
The 86 block has a 1 piece rear main the same as e series blocks, the 84 also has a 1 piece but it is a different size, I always like to run an EF crank in a 86 block as like Tony said I find them smoother.
Head work, well I'm always going to recommend some porting hahaha but with gas I would run a bigger exhaust valve, gas likes more exhaust flow. Intake if the budget allows to run a 1.84 valve then do it, a nice 3 angle seat and a backcut on the valve and your golden.
That cam will suit what your after in my opinion.
PS you don't get a block balanced you can get the rotating assembly balanced but in this application I wouldn't really worry about it.

I think the later blocks are essentially the same as the earlier blocks - possibly a bit better casting - possibly not.  won't really matter unless you plan on going .060" oversize and big comp - which you are not.  The EF crank in the 86DA block does make them RPM happier and seat of the pants feel between to two is that the EF crank is smoother.  having said that - when I bolted on a better balanced inlet manifold to my 84da block motor is RPM'd like an EF crank motor, so maybe there is something in that.
 
EF crank seal and 86da block seal are different to 84da neo seals from memory. 
 
I have little experience with LPG but I have heard that it can take a little higher compression than fuel - but to be honest I am well and truly out of my depth as I have never played with cooking gas.  I'm sure someone else on here has. 
 
the rest of the combo sounds good.  Torque will be your friend in this application so comp and cam to suit and 250/250 rod combo is the go. 

A small update, the 302 went 11.4 down the quarter and is now having the exhaust valves changed to a different shape, also the 750 carb is being replaced with an 850 unit. I am hoping this old girl gets to bottom 11's, he hasn't run it up to full revs yet so here's hoping she gets quicker.

A small update, the 302 went 11.4 down the quarter and is now having the exhaust valves changed to a different shape, also the 750 carb is being replaced with an 850 unit. I am hoping this old girl gets to bottom 11's, he hasn't run it up to full revs yet so here's hoping she gets quicker.

A small update, the 302 went 11.4 down the quarter and is now having the exhaust valves changed to a different shape, also the 750 carb is being replaced with an 850 unit. I am hoping this old girl gets to bottom 11's, he hasn't run it up to full revs yet so here's hoping she gets quicker.

Another update .
Sump painted & old engine mounts cut out of chassis .
Then test fit again .

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Got to make chassis engine mounts for the engine plate , move steering rack & sway bar mounts .
Sorry if there is too many pic's , BUT most forums like pic's .

A physical stopper is the best way, a hollowed out spark plug with a bolt through the centre will work, I remove the rockers so valves don't touch the stopper, turn the motor over until it stops (by hand) and mark the balancer in line with the tdc mark on the timing cover, turn the motor until it stops in the other direction and mark the balancer again, measure between these 2 marks is true tdc and hopefully that will be marked on the balancer already if it hasn't moved.

A physical stopper is the best way, a hollowed out spark plug with a bolt through the centre will work, I remove the rockers so valves don't touch the stopper, turn the motor over until it stops (by hand) and mark the balancer in line with the tdc mark on the timing cover, turn the motor until it stops in the other direction and mark the balancer again, measure between these 2 marks is true tdc and hopefully that will be marked on the balancer already if it hasn't moved.

A physical stopper is the best way, a hollowed out spark plug with a bolt through the centre will work, I remove the rockers so valves don't touch the stopper, turn the motor over until it stops (by hand) and mark the balancer in line with the tdc mark on the timing cover, turn the motor until it stops in the other direction and mark the balancer again, measure between these 2 marks is true tdc and hopefully that will be marked on the balancer already if it hasn't moved.

A physical stopper is the best way, a hollowed out spark plug with a bolt through the centre will work, I remove the rockers so valves don't touch the stopper, turn the motor over until it stops (by hand) and mark the balancer in line with the tdc mark on the timing cover, turn the motor until it stops in the other direction and mark the balancer again, measure between these 2 marks is true tdc and hopefully that will be marked on the balancer already if it hasn't moved.

Yeah I'm just a backyarder, I use a cold chisel and large hammer for all my mods hahaha

I haven't bothered yet, when my surgeries are done I will go full steam ahead with the business and advertise, plus everyone local knows I built it lol

I haven't bothered yet, when my surgeries are done I will go full steam ahead with the business and advertise, plus everyone local knows I built it lol

My experience with the EFI 250 is that the slightest little vac leak means the engine won't want to idle properly. My old man's zl needed the vac lines replacing, the rear engine seal, intake gaskets and the rocker cover gasket doing, and it still has a minor fluctuation while in gear. The idle control valve at the back of the rocker cover can sometimes get a build up of crud in it and need cleaning, and while you're in there replace the o ring for some insurance.
On the pinging issue, what year model zl? is it the leaded EFI or unleaded EFI version. The unleaded version has a knock sensor and is a little more tolerant of lower octane fuels. The leaded EFI motor, which my dad has, didn't get the knock sensor. Makes it real touchy to timing and fuel octane rating. He's gotta run 95 minimum just to keep the thing from rattling it's head off. 
I think i've covered everything we've done so far. If not, i'm sure someone else will chime in.

Manage to ream the seat of regulator and got it to seal. A bit of shit musta got into me fuel gauge cuz it read 0 pressure even though the car started. I cleaned it out and fuel system is sweet now.

Starts and runs sweet even though it is rich as shit. Methanol is awesome like that.

Heres A shitty video for your viewing pleasure. The yellow line if you can barely make out is afr.


 
its pretty cool though as you lean out the cells and bring it close to stoich it cleans up a bit and picks up a coupla hundred rpm.

Now gotta get this puppy onto a dyno or track to tune her up a bit.

yeah about that mate was a manual car

 

I played with one a little while ago on a very basic engine I got 163hp and it was running out of fuel im sure a few tweaks would have seen more but that was it for it in stock form

I went to a 465 holley and then seen 174 hp as it was out of the box ron fiddled it on the rollers ad got it to 184 was such a fun little car that one still have that engine in the shed

Yeah I'm just a backyarder, I use a cold chisel and large hammer for all my mods hahaha