Lord_fahrquhar

Just on this, there are several pins on the ford ecU, from memory pin 20, 40 and 60.  These are required to be the signal earths for the sensors shown above.  The case is earthed back to the body.  They're easy to spot.  They're black.
This is important as the 5V reference is taken from the cu, and this is you earth to somewhere else you may get residual current which will play havoc with it.
Jacks picture is correct, make sure the 12V starter is just that not constant 12V - your timing won't advance otherwise.  This locks the starting timing to base timing (0 degrees for an el ecU and +10 for others)
 
Also the +5v on your black wire, it should be 0v is your earthing against the body.  

it will get close to the el fan shroud if you mount it on a standard flow rad.  The thread that holds the fan gets close to the el shroud.
I cut a notch out on my fan shroud to make fit, if was doing again would put the water pump in the lathe or mill and cut the end off.

yeah its a piece of piss.

Not special just BBF...block needs clearanceing with a die grinder around 2 and 5 lifters.Takes around 10mins. 
The result is...a bad ass engine that idles like a baby,goe's like a mo fo and requires zero run in period and will out power a flat tappet.
 

Sounds like rollers are less fuckin hassle

Sounds like rollers are less fuckin hassle

Yeah I can run with that

Solid roller is lean in the window hit the key. Then load it on the trailer and go race it lol.
Well thats what I did anyway

No you won't. Your set in the low comp now,it's in your words. Fluted lifters...ummmmm I don't know but suggest there the same as EDM with a hole on the face to lubricate the camshaft and lifter. What I did find is that it's very very very critical to get run in procedure correct or you will wreak the cam shaft on start up. Long drawn out process that not many do correctly.  
Chamber is rather open in mine hence the lack of outright flow but the head has been decked and has chambers that are resistant to hot spots and detonation.
  
Yes regardless of what the combo is they need cyl heads to work.This head is not ideal but works because Ricky Naughton of LHT Race Engines did a killer job with what he had to work with and it has shown the numbers.Can't recommend his work enough TBH.   

i got the diff she is a 3.23 single legger looks like everything will swap over

Yeah this is exactly what's holding mine up at the moment.  You have to make a choice here either forced induction now - in which case you're probably right.  But it will be a dog to drive without the air pump.
The choice I think you have here is to get the 8.9 cc Pistons and build a tough na streeter.
 
Build your low compression bottom end for later when you want to add boost and swap heads and cam over.
 
The regs in SA about turbos on ULP motors are  basically designed to be a pita.  Not sure about your end of the world but for me I've gone and said fuck it and Shove a turbo on something else.
Anyway...
For me my formula is very similar to yours, I have a head with some work by Ryan, the isky 235, retainers, 5/16 roller rockers which I already have and ferrea valves.  Will be going the Nat asp route as it's easier to hide.  And easier to shove a standard stick and carb in if I need to deal with dickheads.  Cam most likely a crow 14872 - effectively the roller version of the 14650 which gets a really good rap on here.
 
Induction for me is an eb inlet and injection. have talked to crazy2287 about the megasquirt and this is likely to get the job, I've already pulled an ef wiring loom and sensors to mock up on the motor.  Will also go coil on plug with ls coils - so will fit the ef 36:1 tone wheel and cam phaser in due course 
 
 
In SA I can add anything to a pre 76 motor so that's the way I'm going with the turbo. Most likely 8 cylinders worth
 
so one a cruiser with a revvy engine and another car with a stockish motor pushing boost.
2:1 happy days
 
 

The head is finished im stoked

Yeah this is exactly what's holding mine up at the moment.  You have to make a choice here either forced induction now - in which case you're probably right.  But it will be a dog to drive without the air pump.
The choice I think you have here is to get the 8.9 cc Pistons and build a tough na streeter.
 
Build your low compression bottom end for later when you want to add boost and swap heads and cam over.
 
The regs in SA about turbos on ULP motors are  basically designed to be a pita.  Not sure about your end of the world but for me I've gone and said fuck it and Shove a turbo on something else.
Anyway...
For me my formula is very similar to yours, I have a head with some work by Ryan, the isky 235, retainers, 5/16 roller rockers which I already have and ferrea valves.  Will be going the Nat asp route as it's easier to hide.  And easier to shove a standard stick and carb in if I need to deal with dickheads.  Cam most likely a crow 14872 - effectively the roller version of the 14650 which gets a really good rap on here.
 
Induction for me is an eb inlet and injection. have talked to crazy2287 about the megasquirt and this is likely to get the job, I've already pulled an ef wiring loom and sensors to mock up on the motor.  Will also go coil on plug with ls coils - so will fit the ef 36:1 tone wheel and cam phaser in due course 
 
 
In SA I can add anything to a pre 76 motor so that's the way I'm going with the turbo. Most likely 8 cylinders worth
 
so one a cruiser with a revvy engine and another car with a stockish motor pushing boost.
2:1 happy days
 
 

Yeah this is exactly what's holding mine up at the moment.  You have to make a choice here either forced induction now - in which case you're probably right.  But it will be a dog to drive without the air pump.
The choice I think you have here is to get the 8.9 cc Pistons and build a tough na streeter.
 
Build your low compression bottom end for later when you want to add boost and swap heads and cam over.
 
The regs in SA about turbos on ULP motors are  basically designed to be a pita.  Not sure about your end of the world but for me I've gone and said fuck it and Shove a turbo on something else.
Anyway...
For me my formula is very similar to yours, I have a head with some work by Ryan, the isky 235, retainers, 5/16 roller rockers which I already have and ferrea valves.  Will be going the Nat asp route as it's easier to hide.  And easier to shove a standard stick and carb in if I need to deal with dickheads.  Cam most likely a crow 14872 - effectively the roller version of the 14650 which gets a really good rap on here.
 
Induction for me is an eb inlet and injection. have talked to crazy2287 about the megasquirt and this is likely to get the job, I've already pulled an ef wiring loom and sensors to mock up on the motor.  Will also go coil on plug with ls coils - so will fit the ef 36:1 tone wheel and cam phaser in due course 
 
 
In SA I can add anything to a pre 76 motor so that's the way I'm going with the turbo. Most likely 8 cylinders worth
 
so one a cruiser with a revvy engine and another car with a stockish motor pushing boost.
2:1 happy days
 
 

Its a C2.

I got one of Ryan's heads too.....
I'm just a bit slower starting my build so I'm watching yours with interest.

DULUX overhaul

DULUX overhaul

Do a search, I've plagiarised sly dogs usual post below. I'm probably going to go down this route will be plenty quick to make me shit myself.
 
And then want more power... slippery slope this
 
Plagiarism below
 
 
From Jase Stoodley...
One of the combos I ran through the years was very healthy and only mild and was fun on the street i thought i would put it up here.
 
Block: 80da bored & honed .030
Crank: 250 ground & balanced
Rods: 250 machined balanced and 302w ARP bolts fitted
Pistons: ACL 21cc dish - combined with a 50 odd cc head was about 9.5:1 comp.
Cam: 230@50 530lift hydro - great cam for these motors!
Head: open chamber carby unmarked ported, 1.85" in, 1.55" exh valves, turned out it flowed 320hp
Springs: crow 7333 doubles - head needs machining for these.
 
Other parts included rollmaster chain, yella terra street terra bolt ons, crow pushrods, romac balancer.
 
Used to run a ultraflow manifold with a 500 holley went well but changed over to a cain and 600 vacuum secondaries and what a difference.
 
Was running a Hall dizzy with a MSD 6AL and MSD digital timing computer- the equivalent now would be a 6AL-2 programmable running 36deg total timing.
 
Used a 2200stall in a c4 with 3.7 rear gears.
 
the car was a full street car cortina ran 13.6 @ 100mph then 13.3@103 when i changed to the 600vac and made 200rwhp
 
The thing is every thing below the head is still the same motor in the car now.

460bb items .874"

Nason fuck me had no end of dramas with those fucking things in 4.0's
 
theyre a lifter with a built in tick from new 
 
 

Nason fuck me had no end of dramas with those fucking things in 4.0's
 
theyre a lifter with a built in tick from new 
 
 

They haven't been fitted yet but will need to be turned down to fit 

So...
The bug has hit to own a car with bulk grunt before we all turn to an electric future.  That and she who must be obeyed has vetoed other choices/platforms which lend themselves to power ups which you would:
a.  not do because of their rarity or pure cubic dollar value (like a merc sl)
b.  too new (anything really)
c.  a holden (has taste)
d.  looks evil (gt falcon, but I don't have a problem with that)
So that leaves the old falcon ute with a 5 speed and a efi 4.1.  Now I contemplated doing a Windsor conversion, which would have been simpler, easier, and make v8 noises which appeals to me on a deep level.
But I've really enjoyed the journey with this car, and being a bit different appeals to both me and the missus.  It is nice to drive something a bit old school knowing you've done it yourself even if said device is being outrun by a diesel golf.  And thats the problem, being outrun by the diesel golf.
Now the current 4.1 thats in the car has a cam ct142-528, 5/16 yella terra roller rockers, jp timing chain.  Also has an eb inlet.  Languishing in the front yard has been the original numbers motor, which I put on a stand and pulled down last weekend.  And even though the mains and rod bearings were fucked, generally the crank was fine, and lifter bores good.  So after 4 years outside under a tarp its looking pretty good.
So the plans are  to build a solid motor that can take a bit of boost without going to ridiculous levels.  400-450 is the goal
(and feel free to rubbish and offer advice).  
Bottom end
balanced bottom end Ef crank (I won't need it but I've got a free one) Arp rod bolts New cast pistons acl New oil pump (not a hi vol) Head
Wagoon (Ryan) sold me a head with some porting already done Ferrea inlets and exhausts 1.6" Windsor exhausts and f1220P inlets Isky 235d +retainers+collets rollers from the existing motor to be transferred over Cam
open to choice but think the CT142-528 will do the job. But open to something with more lift if you guys recommend it Turbo
gt3582r or master power t70 Injection 
Eb inlet and possibly mega squirt Anyway, happy to take advice
 
Dave
 
 

Ferrea 1.6" Windsor exhausts
ferrea 2.125" che inlets 11/32 f1220P
 
Have brought both recently, and yes my wallet has been packraped.  But both are beautiful looking things.