rocklord

The US 3.3L inline six takes a rear sump oil pan to fit in the Fox bodied Mustangs.  A Cortina pan should work.
Unless your good at modding, the EA-AU and Barra engines won't fit with their front sump pans. That and the cam covers may have hood clearance issues.
Keep in mind the US 3.3L has a 7.808" deck height, the Crossflow's deck height is 9.38".  Hood clearance could be tight.  May be able to lower the Crossflow for clearance.
Go for it.
 

Have you cc'd the head yet?

Thanks everyone for your responses.
 
I've read Thom's writeup for the OHC six and it is very good. 
 
Thom, in my part of the US I don't have to worry about installing a cat on my 65 Mustang.  I only have to meet the emission standards of the vehicle year (we're not all like California).
 
What would be the casting code for an EF head if I was able to find one?  94A or 95A?  Thom's writeup states that the AU short block with an EF head would yield a 10+CR. 
Is this combo OK for a street engine running premium gasoline?  If not, would an aftermarket cam be better than an EA cam in reducing the dynamic CR?
Since my Mustang won't be a daily driver, I'm not concerned with feeding it premium.

First some background info.
 
I live in the United States, so my access to parts is limited to eBay, email, web forums, and my pocketbook.  Also, sellers willing to ship to the US.
 
I have in my possession an AU engine without an ECU/wiring harness.  My plan is to install it in my 1965 Mustang with AC, a T-5, 8-inch rearend/3.55LSD, Pacemaker 4499, and 2.5" exhaust.  My Mustang will be used for weekend cruising and car shows.  Along with not having an ECU, I have fitment issues with the BBM ( have to notch the shock tower).  Not wanting to butcher the Mustang, I've decided to swap out the stock EFI/BBM and go with an Aussiespeed 4BBl manifold with carby or TBI.  For ignition, I may use either a recurved dizzy or EDIS with Megasquirt/Megajolt.
 
Which brings me back to topic, cam selection.  I'm looking at purchasing either a Crow 2232522 or 2232549.  Keeping in mind what I'm using my car for, which cam would be better?  A little lope won't bother me.  My desire is to have a little more power than stock, and to surprise the guys with 289 HiPo V8s.  Would I be better off with a cam from another maker like CamTech?
 
Thanks for your input.

First some background info.
 
I live in the United States, so my access to parts is limited to eBay, email, web forums, and my pocketbook.  Also, sellers willing to ship to the US.
 
I have in my possession an AU engine without an ECU/wiring harness.  My plan is to install it in my 1965 Mustang with AC, a T-5, 8-inch rearend/3.55LSD, Pacemaker 4499, and 2.5" exhaust.  My Mustang will be used for weekend cruising and car shows.  Along with not having an ECU, I have fitment issues with the BBM ( have to notch the shock tower).  Not wanting to butcher the Mustang, I've decided to swap out the stock EFI/BBM and go with an Aussiespeed 4BBl manifold with carby or TBI.  For ignition, I may use either a recurved dizzy or EDIS with Megasquirt/Megajolt.
 
Which brings me back to topic, cam selection.  I'm looking at purchasing either a Crow 2232522 or 2232549.  Keeping in mind what I'm using my car for, which cam would be better?  A little lope won't bother me.  My desire is to have a little more power than stock, and to surprise the guys with 289 HiPo V8s.  Would I be better off with a cam from another maker like CamTech?
 
Thanks for your input.

I was super excited when I heard it run, it sounded tougher than any of the other 6's there and torched the tyres with ease. Was gutted when he sent me pics of the head LOL. He works at the local wreckers so has plenty of parts to play with, plus I don't charge him much. I do it for the fun and to see how my work performs. I need to find a video to post.

INLET - ARP 400-2403 these are carb stud kits you need 3
EXH - ARP 435-2101
CAM PALTE - ARP 234-1001
FLEXPALTE - ARP 200-2302
SUMP STUDS - ARP 245-1901
ARP HEAD STUD - AR5-250-1LB
ARP HEAD STUD WASHER - APW1316N
ARP HEAD STUD NUT - APN12-1
ARP MAINS STUD - I use the Ford 300Ci, they are longer and work with up to 5mm girdle

Easy enough in the car just a bit of a fiddle to get the timing case back on, not too bad though. Bit of a tip, dont drop the bolt from the plate that holds the gear in. Difficult and messy to fish it out of the sump haha
 
Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

OK your not gunna listen for what ever reason but I'll tell you anyway,actually pretend Im xrglenn for a while if it helps.
 
You can fit and use all this shit before you even do the engine so,buy a MSD Street fire Ignition for $179,get a TFI dizzy,and a good coil or a basic Bosch unit.That ignition system will now power any future combo you come up with.Ask Clint how well his TFI MSD combo worked out for him amongst others.Simple basic and the BEST thing you could do for any single combo you come up with as it will allow you make HP not limit HP like a electronic dizzy will.Why do I say this...because I have done it and have the results from all bar a crank trigger ignition and for the money I have to ask why not do it as all you will do is miss out on FREE HP.
 
Use no less than a 2.5 exhaust and get the collectors modified to enhance flow/scavenging.This again is totally free hp like the ignition and can be done to any engine in any state of tune at any time.
 
Buy a Romac or Powerbond balancer,I would and do use a custom Powerbond unit but as Glenn likes Romac use one of them if you wish.Again you can use this component on any engine at all at any time and it is FREE HP.
 
Next up buy and fit a DC electric water pump as it's FREE HP.I hope your getting the idea here by now.
 
After this is all fitted tested and made to work how you like start buying engine parts every week as needed.Buy 125lb dual springs,new retainers,locks to suit your stock valve gear will do for now.Any bigger and your into single groove territory.A gasket set to suit the intended rebuild,a camshaft and lifter kit after you consult with Camtech,sorry Crow in your case and do speak to them via the ph not just purchase something cheap off eBay FFS.I would advise you to ring Camtech and speak to Jim Tamborello aswell as they WILL help you.A set of bolt on roller rockers even 2nd hand of eBay if your that concerend about spending money on em will help.Scorpion do not make bolt adjustable's as I have a set on my ute engine and they need the head machined and a set of studs fitted that are just not needed here ATM.That said you don't need adjustable units here either,just roller rockers will free up HP aswell.
 
Then purchase your inlet,I cannot suggest a 4 barrel enough but if you want more throttle response and LESS HP and torque go for a 2 barrel manifold and carb combo.
 
If you buy it all as you go it will spread the $$$ out and allow you to spend a little more where it is needed.A car is a combination of parts so it will need a convertor and a set of gears to suit aswell so purchase with this in mind the whole time.
 
Thats me...

We now have an alloy head based on the old 250 2V, but upgraded to flow better.
Here's a link:  http://www.classicinlines.com/alumoverview.asp
 
One guy is pulling over 200RWHP from a NA 200, and another over 400RWHP from a 16lb. boosted 250.
http://www.classicinlines.com/DynoRoom.asp