Craig

It's the one circuit breaker for both in mine. The second circuit  breaker (in the wiring diagrams) and the blank spot in the fusebox under the dash is for the power windows.
 
I'll check out the link to the part and see if I can make it fit in, I put a 25A glass fuse in there for testing/troubleshooting purposes and it can stay there at the moment so the lights all work for pink slip, but i'd like to put it back the way it is supposed to be.
 

They're 60/55's even put new globes in to make sure it wasn't overloading.
 
 
Sounds exactly like my issue, except it occurred on low beam.

Circuit breaker is definitely the issue.
They look slightly different these days but should be on the shelf at most auto stores (or at least most Repcos).

Link is for a 25A one which doesn't seem very common as it's warehouse stock only, but 20A and 30A are readily available.

https://www.repco.com.au/en/globes-batteries-electrical/electrical-accessories/fuses-circuit-breakers/narva-circuit-breaker-auto-reset-25a-1-pce/p/A9263889

My wagon had the same issue when I first got it with the high beams, turn them on and after 15 or so seconds it'd lose power to all lights until the circuit breaker reset. That only had standard 60/55 globes. Changed it out for one from a parts car and it's been fine since. The one I pulled out was pretty rusty and corroded looking on the outside, so couldn't have been to great internally.
 

If you make your own, use aviation form-a-gasket or Stag paste on both sides, especially if using cork, as they are fuel-proof.

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It may not be too close for you but I got my rusted through floorpans fixed by John Spano in Hornsby, old school guy who seems to know a thing about rust repairs on older cars.

He's lucky, if I had turned up with a Kombi to my now father in laws house to pick up my then girlfriend, helping me repair it would have been the last thing he would have done
 
 
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He's lucky, if I had turned up with a Kombi to my now father in laws house to pick up my then girlfriend, helping me repair it would have been the last thing he would have done
 
 
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You anywhere near me ReVhEaD?
 
 
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Didn't touch the locking tabs just cut/filed down the locating tabs that slot in the two holes so the cap can't be spun around, just took enough off so the cap would insert far enough for the locking tabs to flick out inside the housing to lock the cap down but not too much that it would be loose and able to spin

That's one good lookin wagon Ants. Thanks everyone for you advice and input.. now to trawl the wreckers for a suitable donor.

Must be some load on the stock axles when it's doing this too lol

14's clear the rear disc's easily.
Ea/b/d xg and xh s1 all had 14's on them from factory and ran rear disc's.
 
My wagon runs an eseries diff and i ran 14s on the back briefly.
 

 
The 4 pinion eseries diffs will take a hiding too, mines now done passes into the 100s and is yet to give trouble, all stock internals too.

Did exactly this on my XE wags, 6 to 8 conversion and everything. What you're doing is right also from a legal point of view. Reason is that disc brake & LSD was mandatory with any V8 option.
 
No real dramas on fitting except for hand brake cable. My diff came out of an XG ute so had the correct length one.
 
Later E-series had metric fittings on the brake lines so you'll have to run an adaptor. Not sure about cables on them either. Up to and including ED had the umbrella type hand brake handle so the cable could well be the same.
 
The upshot of using later E-series diffs is that they're 4-pin 28-spline. EB II onwards from memory. If you can find a Fairmont or XR6 wagon, they're likely to have LSD. If you go down that road, get a tailshaft while you're at it. They have the flat-flange uni joint as opposed to the older yoke/saddle type.
 
Master cyl is the same drum or disc (no valve in the port).