SLO247

I use the black bumper paint you can buy. Works perfect and is flexible which is good on the bumpers. Have done the rear on mine, need to do the front, grill, mirrors and wiper grill.
 
You could possibly try some of the blackening stuff but mine had been done with something (boot polish probably) and were a mess. Anything you put on will need to come off before paint will stick anyway so you may as well just spray them.
 
Then all the alloy trim around the windows can be done with normal paint, just need to scuff it up and etch prime it first.

I wet rubbed the bar with 320 I reckon. Don't go too much coarser, could gouge the bumper. Just want to rough it up. Then wash off and wax and grease remover. Let it all evaporate well.

I use the black bumper paint you can buy. Works perfect and is flexible which is good on the bumpers. Have done the rear on mine, need to do the front, grill, mirrors and wiper grill.
 
You could possibly try some of the blackening stuff but mine had been done with something (boot polish probably) and were a mess. Anything you put on will need to come off before paint will stick anyway so you may as well just spray them.
 
Then all the alloy trim around the windows can be done with normal paint, just need to scuff it up and etch prime it first.

At the moment its just a stock xd 4 speed. I have no idea what diff gears, either 2.77 or 2.92. I reckon you saw it when you bought the suspension off me.
 
Nath those Tri Y ones would be perfect for you. They are rusty and need a flange put on the bottom.

I'll look in the factory manual later when I can. Unless its sorted by then.
 
If you have a multimeter use that. Probably acc power, illumination feed, ground and maybe constant power if they had it. Would be in the loom somewhere as the clock would have needed it.

And there's small ones behind the front guards too. Just in front of the wheel.

Take a part painted in that colour. Those guard bolts in the ID plate picture for example. An exterior part may be a better match though, the grill if colour coded is probably the easiest.

What does the whole car look like? You could always take a sample and have it matched.

Yeah I remember now. Pry off the cover on the knob, undo the tiny but and you're laughing.

I sold one the other day. Had four wires. That's what I'd expect they are for.

If your inclined to, you can send me the gauge and I can sort it out for you, free.
 
Thing is, I'm in Queensland and it would probably have to be posted to me and back again.
 
Anyway, the offer's there if you want.

Four wires. Constant power, ign switched power, ground, illumination feed.

Four wires. Constant power, ign switched power, ground, illumination feed.

Four wires. Constant power, ign switched power, ground, illumination feed.

Four wires. Constant power, ign switched power, ground, illumination feed.

Here's an ED which I did not too long ago.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Think, the gauges and vac pump cost will kill your enthusiasm Daniel as will the R134 cost.

Get a vacuum pump and gauge set off ebay.
A flushing tool/gun might be more difficult to get. Never tried to buy one from ebay.
The flushing fluid is exxy too - $120+ for 5ltrs.
 
To get a reliable AC system, you'll really need to disassemble everything,
flush the lines out - each section individually.
Including the evap and condenser cores.
 
If you can, make up adaptors to pressurise the cores with air - as high as you can go - 100PSI or more.
(The system - pipes, cores etc, will see 100psi+ at rest,
and 40-50psi low side / 150-200psi high side - in operation.)
 
Dunk the pressurised cores in a vessel of water, to see if they leak anywhere. - I'm talking microscopic leaks - porous solder joints and such.
Be patient with this step, and go over the entire cores.
 
Remove the compressor and drain all the old oil from it.
Replace with the Synthetic Oil.
Also check the compressor clutch bearings and general overall condition - for evidence of oil staining from leaking seals/gaskets etc.
Repair as necessary.
 
Refit everything.
Don't be afraid to re-use old o-rings, if they feel nice and pliable and look in good condition.
(let them sit in a shallow bath of compressor oil for a few mins beforehand though.)
 
Once re-assembled, draw a vacuum on the system in several stages, and let it sit for a few hrs, to see if it holds the vacuum.
If so, then introduce the correct charge of refrigerant monitor the pressures and temperatures,
tweak the refrigerant charge as necessary and enjoy!
 
Don't expect to see much change from $1k, to get your first AC system up and going again.
(that's DIY too, mind you)

DSC04844 by dan1_721, on Flickr
 
DSC04843 by dan1_721, on Flickr

You can get new radio surrounds for a normal single din unit.
 
4x6 in the dash sides, 5x7 in the rear shelf is the factory sizes.
 
Xfs had 4" in the dash sides with a ported plastic box mounted to the old 4x6 holes.

The vent surround has two screws going down vertically. Swivel the vents to see the heads.
 
Ac and stereo surrounds are held in by nuts behind the knobs. Need a deep socket. Can't remember if 7/16 or 1/2.
 
Clock one has a screw hiding in the back behind the blanking plate.
 
Be really careful with it all, old plastic doesn't always like being disturbed.
 
The plug for the clock may well be there. Let us know. Square plug. If you fit a clock be sure to get the XD/early XE one with the big numbers.
 
The later one with the small numbers has a different plug.

Yeah they don't look right for pre AU.

DSC04844 by dan1_721, on Flickr
 
DSC04843 by dan1_721, on Flickr

Yeah its fucked unless you just need to move it. Sitting on the floor is hard as fuck too lol.

Custom seating hahaha