Stumps

aussiespeed do a twin four barrel manifold - very similar to what you have drawn wagoon. 

What do you guys think of using a manifold like an aussie speed or something in that shape. Cut of the single carby mount and area under the carby. The cut the outside of the runner for 1&6  leaving the top and bottom untouched down to around were 2&5 runners. Then make a new section just like the carby mounting section that was cut out but so that it mounts the 3 carbies. I would envisage the carbies would be mounted fairly high so that you could have enough volume under the carbies for all three carbies and to allow for tapering to the outside runners for smoother air flow. Sorry for the really basic drawing but hopefully you get the idea. Clearly the drawing isn't to scale as the carbies would take up a lot more room but do you think this might be plausible. I know the weight of the carbies may be an issue.

 

Ok , i've been looking at a lot of US websites like classicinlines.com doing research on different carb setups for ford inline sixes and while most of what i found is based on pre crossflow 200's and 250's, i did find some very interesting setups that i reckon would work a treat on a worked crossflow engine especially this
 
http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b534/fordrpo83/Mobile%20Uploads/img_7663_zps2a8c4d5b.jpg
 
I reckon with 3 BX stromys from an XC or XD setting up the linkages would be fairly easy as the factory accelerator cable would work with the center carb and you could set it as a progressive setup for both economy and performance.
 
The only issue i can see is with an inlet manifold, as i have no major fabricating skills i would need to get one made up, can any one reccommend anyone to do this?
 
The manifold would really just be based on the factory one with 2 more flanges for the other carbs as a common plenum would be beneficial to the progessive setup.
 
Can any one help with this?

That's the best pic I have unfortunately.  It was years ago. the manifold sections don't sit inline but it wouldn't be too hard to join the runners.

^ that's the shit right there

LOL been there done that!
 
Had the center 2 runners from 3 manifolds cut up and blocked off. 
It had a broom handle for the linkage and no tuning so it ran like shit but when it got up in the revs it went suprisingly well.
Exhaust was twin 2 1/4in out under the drivers door.
 

 
 

 

This is the only way to do webers...
 

 
I was going to make a custom manifold to suit 3x500 meth Holleys and the manifold was going to cost around $1600-$2000. More than the 3 carbs and more than my 50mm webers cost in the end. Really there is no cheap way out when out sourcing the work which in the end makes the pre made option the go IMO.
 
The other thing to think of is bonnet clearance.The front carb was going to be sticking out the bonnet on mine pretty well along with the 2nd carb air cleaner. Then the custom linkages and stuff.It is no where as easy or as cheap as you think. 

Can i have that boot spoiler for my cortina

Nath you'll need to have the vac advance working on your car for best performance. Post 86 XF's used an EST distributor which had a computer controlling it. Pre 86 XF's and XE's used the standard dizzy which requires vacuum advance to work. Try to set up the vacuum lines to run like your stromberg set up worked for the advance as just dodgying things will cause more issues and the car wont run right.

Hopefully it's easily unblockable. From 86 onwards XFs had an electronically controlled dizzy so didn't need a vac advance.

The vacuum advance should have a little red plastic star thingy around it on the carb.

http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Weber_Conversion

If your carb was off an XE the job would be a whole lot simpler. You really just need to figure out the vacuum advance and plumb that directly to the carb, the rest if you can either just loop them back or plumb them to a source of vacuum and they should work.
 
No need to go all out with trying to match the diagrams as you are missing 50% of the emission parts.

You dont wanna go overboard...thats what Slydogs triple weber beast is for.

Why stop at 3, lets see how many I can fit on one manifold...

Mate if the wreckers charge you more than 20 bucks for a good runner they need rooting with the rough end of a pineapple.

Not if done properly...and we keep you away from the carbs
 
Wish i could find some one to make me a manifold for that setup.

https://superkonr.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/img_7663.jpg
 
You could do this

Auto trans Nuetral start circuit. Put a switch in .....  job's done.
 
Like trying to start your car in Drive.

Yeah the suspension on the Foxys and wheel base help a bit plus weight distribution.But the fast 1's are all NOS or boosted in some way or the fast NAT ASP1's have a tall deck 351 as the base first.
 
Reliable they are and the way they treat the oil surprises me.They don't seem to get hot either or get noisy and clunky.I love my ute and the noise it makes but I would not race any thing other then a Prius in it as they are a slow shit box.Much like a Harley I guess LOL
 
EDIT I'd race my stock FG against any stock PH3 on a drag strip any day of the week for $500.Mines a auto and I kill the tree.
 
http://www.motormag.com.au/features/1105/then-v-now-gt-ho-against-xr6/

Annnnnnnnnnnd there still a dohgy shit box...sound good though.

Annnnnnnnnd they still get smoked by a stock NAT ASP FG XR6. My 2003 5.0L ute has zorst filter tune (if you would belive the sticker in the bay...LOL) and my FG rapes it.
 
The little Windsor may sounds the goods but she don't deliver without some REAL work.
 
If I was to do 1 I would not waste a single cent on GT40 heads...even if free I wouldn't use em.Straight for ally Edelbrock heads cos there cheap and work well.The higher rockers show they want some more lift = bigger lift cam with suitable duration.Can't go to big as they have P/V issues. I'd modify the extractors for longer secondary's and a x pipe with a twin 2.5" or 3" and single muffler with twin in twin out @ the rear. Correct stall and shorter gears to suit combo and get it tuned.
 
That was without touching the bottom end.If I did it properly I'd use a Scat stroker bottom end,proper balancer and some CHI heads...Just saying

My apologies matt - I missed the 'unless they are screwed' bit. 
 
Problem is a lot of people don't have access to spring tester and getting a shop that actually gives a shit about 'an old crossflow' is a real issue.  that's why I say throw some decent springs in and be done with it.  Poor man pays twice and by the time you pay for some apprentice to check 12 springs you could have been well on your way to owning a good set of springs.
 
Agreed with the rest of your sentiments tho. 
 
PS - Did you put those stock size pistons to good use?

All great advice from the usual crossy freaks on here but I'll add a bit more on the LPG thing.
 
Stumper is 100% on manifold balance. My dad's XF was a warm 4.1 EFI and was a smooth revver all the way to 5500. That exact same donk in my LPG Corty with a Redline 2-barrel manifold was shitty above 4000 and felt like it was going to shake itself to bits. Bad cylinder balance from poor manifold design.
 
Now the LPG. You'll need some decent plenum volume and a manifold that will give even flow for each runner. Although EFI manifolds are more even than carby ones, they have small plenums and runners and still favour the two middle cylinders, as they are right in front of the throttle.
 
The factory rating for the EFI donk was 120 kW. Not bad for its day considering the 5.0 Dunnydoor made about that much. But the EFI manifold might only handle 150 kW before maxing out, and seeing as LPG takes up more volume in the intake than just plain air or air/petrol, that power potential becomes even less. The throttle drawing air from the hot side of the engine adds to the problem.
 
So your choice in manifolds may not be the best to reach your goal, which is to match the performance of a modern V6 (around 180 kW).
 
Ditto for the mixer. 225 is woefully small for any kind of performance engine. Go at least the next size up or a GRA single. Aussiespeed manifolds are not perfect but miles ahead of anything else, so I'd go with one of them in 4-barrel (for the plenum volume).
 
So go bigger with everything... Manifold, mixer, ports, valves, cam, exhaust... all will work together to give you what you're after. No point in having one weak link in the chain.

Ef crank if you can get one, std bottom end
 
I'd go a c2 head with efi pistons. This will give a fair whack of compression but you machine down the toungue in the chamber to reduce hot spots for pinging.
 
Standard valvegear should be ok for that too.
 
With the camtech cam it will be a torquey little bitch and pull like a serial masturbator between 1500 and 3k. I find mine is a bit meh over 3k but it has more to do with the efi manifold. I'm working on a eb manifold conversion to resolve that shortly. That should help with a boost related issue down the track.