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I just drilled a hole out, on the bottom slightly ontop of the other one and to the left. Worked fine
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Well Ive tried pulling the lifters out with a magnet and a flattened welding rod and nothing has worked they move freely until the end where they feel like they hit a wall. Ive ordered a lifter pull tool but that wont be here till Friday. If you have any other tips on how to get them out then let me know
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I don't remember. Possibly one but I basically put the new one in the correct spot and sent it. It was likely a need to drive it to work the next day after the original cable kinked and I wasn't buying another if I already had one that could work
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@SPArKy_Dave - yes that’s what I was thinking too. @Thom @deankxf did you use any of the existing Mounting bolts? I was thinking if redrilling or drilling a bigger whole on the pedal.
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By SPArKy_Dave · Posted
There must be a slight difference, between the early XF mounting points, and the later XF commercials, which ran an e-series accelerator pedal? -
Yeah I did as Thom did and used tek screws. Nut sert or riv nuts would be preferable if you can get access to them
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It's not the "correct way" to do it but I've fitted one with self tappers before, if you wanted to do it a bit better than that I've used nutserts and then bolted it in
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@deankxf @Thom has anyone put an an xg pedal in an xf. I got my hands on an xg pedal and an AU v8 cable. Pretty sure the cable will just click in. I thought the XG pedal would bolt straight in as XF and XG are very similar. But the mounting bolts in the firewall are slightly off. Has anyone done this before and what’s the best way to achieve this?
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This may be of use. https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/bundaberg-central/brakes-suspension/ford-power-steering-box/1325331564
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By SPArKy_Dave · Posted
In my mind, the trouble (and risk) is all crossflows are likely worn out these days. They're 20yrs older, with 250-300,000km +. IMO, any replacement sec/hand engine, could have a worn cam also? Use of modern Synthetic/Non-Zinc engine oils in flat-tappet engines (aka crossflows) are probably not helping. Yes, could definitely use a Micrometer to measure cam lift, and compare with the factory specs. Moot point though, as if the pushrods are straight, then either cam and/or lifters are toast. Crossflow 6cyl's (and flat-tappet Clevo's/Windsor's too), need 15w/40 or 20w/50 mineral oil IMO. Easiest way I found, is to use diesel grade mineral oils, and double check the zinc content from manufacturer specs.
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