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Free.51

Holley 600

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I decided to make a slice in the bracket to get the inner cable in & have the adjusting nut on the front & locknut on the back. Got the engine started earlier no probs but now i think ive flooded it from fucken around with the throttle linkage for ages, it has spark so thats not the issue96eee56ab517438089c7f388f1b13b3a.jpg

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Accelerator is all sorted now, drove it to Ian's & he gave it the once over. Its running really well :). He tried to fit the kickdown rod with the spring perch kit but bcos of the adaptor plate being under the carb its made the throttle bracket abit high & is interfering with the kickdown rod, had there been no adaptor plate wouldn't have a problem but without the adaptor plate there would be no holley so can't win em all. i'll have to manually down shift til i figure something out.56a90ceac4a81f43ef848dc24166fc95.jpg

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I wouldn't drive it too hard with kickdown disconnected, depending on if it's always on or off when disconnected, you could do damage to the box with insufficient mod pressure causing clutch slip.

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Do you mean always on or off the throttle?
You're running an FMX aren't you? I can't remember if the kickdown linkage springs in a particular direction (all the way on or all the way off) but I know on a BW auto, if you get the kickdown adjustment wrong, you can either get slippage and early upchange (not enough kickdown) or clunking/thumping into gear and hanging on to gears (too much kickdown) as well as generally goofy shift points.

I know you mentioned manually shifting but the modulation pressure, determined by amount of kickdown (which also affects clutch engagement) is still not going to be right for the amount of throttle input.

Anyone else who's owned a box like yours please correct me if I'm wrong. I'm really a manual guy and I only really played with Mercedes bus/truck autos back in the day. The throttle/kickdown adjustment was critical on them, even ball joint wear on the throttle linkages would affect the shift quality heaps.

Ok edit... After writing all that, I just researched and found that Ford boxes (C4, C6, FMX) have vacuum modulators to control mod pressure. So yes, you can drive it without a kickdown. Some cars/trucks came without one at all. So disregard what I said in your case, but there are boxes out there that rely on precise adjustment of the kickdown cable/linkage to achieve correct modulation (the lever is dual purpose in this case).

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Cheers for that Greg, ive got a C4 & yeah the vac modulator is at the rear of the trans👍. I reckon i might be able to get a piece of thin flat metal & drill 2 holes & fit it up to the kickdown bracket & rod to fill that void & get the kickdown rod operating.

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3 hours ago, bear351c said:

Yeah, I got an FMX, and I manually shift it all the time. Heaps of fun through the hills, bit of a pain sometimes, when dickheads pull out in front of you and you try to get around them, but theres enough torque in 3rd gear. 

Is that in ur XB Bear?

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Yeah mate, took out the C4 and Borgy, slipped it under the bench, 'cos it's all matching number.  Built up a 351 from bits and pieces I had in the shed, and bolted to my old FMX, 'cos I like to chirp the tyres when changing into 2nd. 🤫 Would have cost thousands to get a C4 to the same state.

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Kickdown rod is finished, i put brand new battery terminals on the car & used 1 of the old pieces from the terminal to bridge the gap between the kd bracket & kd rod. Then got Ian from KAM autoparts to help me adjust it & am happy to says its running sweet, so thanks to Ian for his help as always & thanks to Greg & Bear & Dean & Jack for their help/advice much appreciated. Nxt thing i might do is get the edelbrock performer manifold, so im assuming the dizzy needs to come out to fit the manifold up?

 

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Would be waaay easier with the dizzy out, but you can do it with it in. Hard to get to the valley "walls", you'll have the oil sender at the back as well. 

Much easier to pull the dizzy out, (don't turn the crank, it'll pop straight back in) remove the thermostat housing.  Heaps easier to clean all the old gasket goo off........

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Yeah Bear, easier but not 100% necessary. I did my factory iron manifold without pulling the dizzy. Fkers are stupid heavy!

At least clevos are one engine where the dizzy doesn't mount through a hole in the manifold.

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Oh man, i didnt really want to remove the thermostat either, can it be done with thermostat on or will that definitely have to come off?
I guess it depends on which one you have. I don't remember needing to remove mine when doing a cam swap

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I've changed intakes a few times on mine, spread bore to AFD hi-rise, to factory square bore, To AFD hi-rise to factory square bore (yes twice) & finally performer,

I've only ever removed dissy cap & leads, then just the intake.

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On 1/7/2021 at 4:11 PM, Free.51 said:

This arrived in the post today, not sure if it goes on upside down or downside up + now i think the bolts that came with the adaptor plate are too short now to bolt the carb down aswell as the throttle bracket.a3a80670ddfeff605b9c0a3e3be16d97.jpg

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Hey mate, do you info on this bracket and where did you get it? I'm fitting a 1850-4 to my 302 ZJ,

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1 hour ago, ZJFairlane said:

Hey mate, do you info on this bracket and where did you get it? I'm fitting a 1850-4 to my 302 ZJ,

I just got it off ebay, typed in holley throttle bracket, suits 4150 model

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