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Xflow Distributor information? EST? TFI?

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Hi All

 

I've been doing my ignition system research and I keep seeing people referring to EST, TFI and electronic distributors. Only thing is no body seems to mention what the difference is or what they look like? (guess its just one of those things people just know)

 

So My Guestion/s are

 

Whats an EST dizzy?

Whats a TFI Dizzy?

Whats an electronic Dizzy?

How do you tell the difference?

 

and if you are really keen what are the pros and cons?? why use one over the other?

 

Sorry if it's a dumb questions but it's doing my head in and I haven't been able to find an answer on the forum or on the all mighty google :(

 

Thank You 

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i can give you a brief description..

 

TFI has a TFI module on the side..(no vac advance thingy)
EST has nothing on the side (no vac advance thingy)
electronic one has a squarish box with 2 screws in the top and a chip inside.. 4 wires onto the chip.. has vac advance and inside has 6 pointy doover thingys that almost touch other whatsits. 
points(XD iron head and prior had them, thicker shaft so it can't fit later blocks.. has vac advance also but points inside

if i find pics before i forget i'll post again

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i can give you a brief description..
 
TFI has a TFI module on the side..(no vac advance thingy)
EST has nothing on the side (no vac advance thingy)
electronic one has a squarish box with 2 screws in the top and a chip inside.. 4 wires onto the chip.. has vac advance and inside has 6 pointy doover thingys that almost touch other whatsits. 
points(XD iron head and prior had them, thicker shaft so it can't fit later blocks.. has vac advance also but points inside

if i find pics before i forget i'll post again
Cheers

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

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5 hours ago, Slow250XC said:

Here you go, one from the archives 2fb9cba997be3f5b7af0845efdd9e542.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-J330G using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

that's my photo from many years ago.. taken with a real camera(no phone built in)

 

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On 3/8/2019 at 3:33 AM, deankdx said:

that's my photo from many years ago.. taken with a real camera(no phone built in)

 

I have the one on the right... any chance you can tell me where this ellusive 13mm nut is for me to loosen/remove the dizzy?! Be fecked if i can locate the bloody thing 🤔

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5 hours ago, waderobertson said:

I have the one on the right... any chance you can tell me where this ellusive 13mm nut is for me to loosen/remove the dizzy?! Be fecked if i can locate the bloody thing 🤔

if you stand on the left side of the car, near the left front wheel.. the bolt(think it's 1/2 inch actually, but 13 will do it.) is closer to the dip stick 

i cant think of a better way to describe it, i don't think can see it most of the time, youll feel it with an open end spanner though

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20 hours ago, deankdx said:

if you stand on the left side of the car, near the left front wheel.. the bolt(think it's 1/2 inch actually, but 13 will do it.) is closer to the dip stick 

i cant think of a better way to describe it, i don't think can see it most of the time, youll feel it with an open end spanner though

👍 thanks mate 

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17 minutes ago, waderobertson said:

apologies for the thread hi-jack, but...

 

This is my rotor position at TDC which is 180ish degrees from where it needs to be aligned with #1 contact point on the distributor.

 

How on earth do I go about achieving that? 😬

 

 

Y8Ibo9fm.jpg?1

 

 

what job are you doing?  did you take the old one out while the engine was in the same position?  you just lift the dizzy up a bit, rotate the gear, drop it down again it will spiral into position a little bit different due to the way the gears are cut.
@gerg might be able to help, i have no time to go further at the moment. 

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25 minutes ago, deankdx said:

what job are you doing?  did you take the old one out while the engine was in the same position?  you just lift the dizzy up a bit, rotate the gear, drop it down again it will spiral into position a little bit different due to the way the gears are cut.
@gerg might be able to help, i have no time to go further at the moment. 

 

Just doing the timing because she's running rough.

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56 minutes ago, waderobertson said:

Just doing the timing because she's running rough.

it won't be 180 out if it runs
doubt it will be timing if it is running ROUGH, timing usually only affects power

 

was it running ok then you did something(like washed engine) or did you just buy it and it's rough

 

do a compression test on it would be My first test, they blow head gaskets often enough.  

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2 hours ago, deankdx said:

it won't be 180 out if it runs
doubt it will be timing if it is running ROUGH, timing usually only affects power

 

was it running ok then you did something(like washed engine) or did you just buy it and it's rough

 

do a compression test on it would be My first test, they blow head gaskets often enough.  

Compression test done. 150 - 152 across all cylanders. 

 

Issue im trying to sort is rough idle, hard cold start (i.e. gotta pump gas 6-10x) and runs on slightly when turned off.

 

Ive checked all vacuum lines and cant find leaks. I know the cut off solenoid is not connected with wire re routed to coil so was just looking to check timing before i can rob the solenoid off my wreck.

 

 

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26 minutes ago, waderobertson said:

Compression test done. 150 - 152 across all cylanders. 

 

Issue im trying to sort is rough idle, hard cold start (i.e. gotta pump gas 6-10x) and runs on slightly when turned off.

 

Ive checked all vacuum lines and cant find leaks. I know the cut off solenoid is not connected with wire re routed to coil so was just looking to check timing before i can rob the solenoid off my wreck.

 

 

it NEEDS that solenoid to be connected and working, the idle jet is behind it. i'm surprised it idles at all. 
if the carby diaprhams are old and dry, the accelerator pump may not be squirting much either hence needing more pumps. 
i have a photo also of how ROOTED the diaphrams can get in My gemini thread (fitted a falcon carby to it, but ended up with a cortina carby instead)
 

pE6arDI.jpg

 

 

PAGE 25 can see videos of how CRAP it ran and how much better it came with a kit just fitting diaphrams alone

 

 

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27 minutes ago, waderobertson said:

Issue im trying to sort is rough idle,

 

here's the video of when i just slapped on the carby with rooted diaphrams

and next one is after just changing diaphrams

 

 

 

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Looks like Deano's onto it. I haven't had much experience with these 34 Webers other than a quick slapper rebuild on one many moons ago, didn't really understand how any carbys worked back then, let alone these. That idle solenoid sounds like it. In general carby terms, if you have to open the idle speed out till it's on the transition slot before it gets fuel, it will be idling very lean still. 10 pumps on the acc pedal sounds like a stuffed acc pump, like Dean said. Also, check that you have power to the auto choke terminal

Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk

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10 hours ago, gerg said:

Looks like Deano's onto it. I haven't had much experience with these 34 Webers other than a quick slapper rebuild on one many moons ago, didn't really understand how any carbys worked back then, let alone these. That idle solenoid sounds like it. In general carby terms, if you have to open the idle speed out till it's on the transition slot before it gets fuel, it will be idling very lean still. 10 pumps on the acc pedal sounds like a stuffed acc pump, like Dean said. Also, check that you have power to the auto choke terminal

Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
 

Thanks @gerg and @deankdx appreciate the responses 👍

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On 4/29/2020 at 3:36 PM, deankdx said:

 

 

what job are you doing?  did you take the old one out while the engine was in the same position?  you just lift the dizzy up a bit, rotate the gear, drop it down again it will spiral into position a little bit different due to the way the gears are cut.
@gerg might be able to help, i have no time to go further at the moment. 

Just shooting back to the dizzy issue...

 

Is there any tips/ tricks/ pitfalls to watch for when lifting and turning the gear? For example do I need to take the 1/2 inch adjusting screw right out? Is there enough room to lift it high enough without knocking the intake manifold? Are there any other elements that need to be tweaked to make things work?

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29 minutes ago, waderobertson said:

Just shooting back to the dizzy issue...

 

Is there any tips/ tricks/ pitfalls to watch for when lifting and turning the gear? For example do I need to take the 1/2 inch adjusting screw right out? Is there enough room to lift it high enough without knocking the intake manifold? Are there any other elements that need to be tweaked to make things work?

i think if you have to ask this question.. then don't do it.. and what's the reason.

the issue mainly is the oil pump drive is a pain in the ass,  if the dissy has been in there for 20yrs odd it can be a right asshole of a thing to remove(due to a crusty lip on the underside  inside of the engine) . 

why do you want to fully remove the dissy? (yes you'll need to remove the bolt, and the rotor button also, it's tight for space) 

if you don't know what you are doing, you'll need a mechanic to get it back in and working again.

 

i'll ask again, just to be sure.. why do you want to remove it(it's not 180 degrees out)

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