deankdx

@CHESTNUTXE might give you some tips, i wouldn't have thought that carby would be a good match without some decent engine work. unless you are doing a lot of engine work at least.

@revhead had a loom modified by CRS running the auto, i'm sure the savings in alcohol were worth the cost of it, let alone the time in sorting it? some more info in this thread where he fitted the AU 5litre into a transit. must be about due for an update

i think you'd find if it's not earthed well, it could overcharge? and or not charge.. i've had overcharging when the earth wire came out of the battery clamp once.. well, i think that's what happened? was before i had a clue about most things.

not sure, maybe @SPArKy_Dave knows BGDAV ran an earth to his, was needed for warranty.. can't see how it would differ being mounted to a metal engine that is also earthed(for the starter motor to work)

might need a new pulley? or does the fan clutch one fit both pumps(has a big hole in middle so no support other than the bolts

mine was cut off on My crossflow, it annoyed me because i wanted to refit a clutch fan and needed to buy a new water pump if you were going to do it' i'd consider the heat you might put into it if using a grinder(do it in stages) or use a hacksaw etc

burning spark boots on the exhaust? How to Install Accel Extreme 9000 Ceramic Boot Wires

if it's charging the volt gauge won't flash at you.. not sure on the battery light..

i prefer rubber on the upper and lower control arms, they are pain in the ass to change.. rubber lasts much much longer in these places. the rest can be either, but you'll notice a difference with sway bar link bushes and probably shockers and spring saddles in nolathane etc.

i ended up re using the old O ring on that return pipe, there was no hope of getting the new supplied one to work, pretty sure i went to ford and got one and couldn't get that to work either(suspect pump casting was the issue on non genuine pump) in hind sight, i'd have sent the old pump off to be reco'd like @SPArKy_Dave would suggest. providing there isn't corrosion on it.

the last power steering box i had done on change over(they actually used mine and did it on the spot, while i waited because they didn't have a spare XG one, where the pipes differ at the top) they charged $90 for the NEW original type rag joint including fitting. so it definitely pays to shop around.(this could have been close to their cost price) steering mobs having the right tools etc make light work of some jobs.

pedders quotes for old falcons can be ridiculous, excess of $2000 easy.. this is because the labour in particular kills it. for eg, the rear springs fitting on my gemini was quoted at $88(1hr i think) i said i can do them in less than 10mins.. not paying $90 for 10mins work(gemini springs.. undo shock lower end, lower diff, springs come out.. refit is just as quick. but they have a "NO BULL" policy, i have always been able to be shown the wear while it's on the hoist. might be because i always wear work boots and look like i know what i'm on about? the key think i've learned with dealing with them for 20yrs is say, i'm not in a postion to do everything right now, but i want to fit tyres, what's needed immediately for a wheel alignment to hold.. then you'll see the change to.. well, you'll get away with the control arm bushes worn for a while, but the caster bushes are falling apart, need them, 2 ball joints and idler arm(idler arms don't last long.. might be due to being lowered also) shocks etc won't affect wheel alignment/tyre wear much.. but they make the car feel much safer when they are ok.. another tip.. as Mr Polson touched on, if you don't go super lows springs, you can get away with much cheaper standard shocks, which have a bonus of being a comfy ride rather than a choppy sports type ride.. (personally i prefer the best shocks in the budget, you do notice the difference in driving confidence, almost as much as decent tyres) you can do a lot of the work yourself, grab a gregorys manual, and a $120 ratchet set and you'll get 80% of the easy stuff done on your own time. before i bought the $30 socket big enough for castor bars, i used to pay pedders to fit them(the nut is big, and tight all the way, ugga duggas on a rattle gun make it quick work) changing a pitman arm is also a job i get them to do, for similar reasons.. quick job with the right tools. and if you are replacing the rag joint on the steering box, i'd consider farming that job out also(power steering one is painful, not sure on the manual one)

for Me, lowered falcons don't drive well if they are lower than say Pedders or King Lows or lovells etc. the biggest DIFFERENCE you'll notice will be nolathane sway bar links, best cheap mod.. (other than non rooted parts) i'd check everything, if you have a pedders there, get a check.. "worn" doesn't mean replace it, ask if they'd do a wheel alignment with the worn parts.. that determines if they NEED replacing. steering box is adjustable, and it can be topped up with whatever they take(oil i think) @Mr Polson recently replaced his worn manual steering box. might give some pointers i don't trust CHEAP PARTS there's a thread here of my experience

not sure what the AU motor looks like, but it may be same (you'd need to remove it from the wiper arm assembly at min. .not sure if the wiring plugs would be same either.) XF to XH would be a direct fit i would think. if you can find one.. that's assuming the motor is stuffed(doubt it, usually they are slow when old..) i'd unplug and replug in the wiring connector. old connections can get tarnish on them also and be bad connections no idea which wires do what in the wiper motor to hotwire it for checking, but someone might?

first check the earth near the bonnet hinge, that's all that stopped mine working.. unscrew, clean the area and wire and refit