deankdx

@Thom can you read the post above and see what pops out...or tag anyone who might know the difference between clevo an windsor flywheel, and where the engine sits in the bay related to the heater pipes(dictated by the engine mounts) is the left bank staggered forward on the windsor and vice versa on the clevo? what makes them not fit usually? i don't know. @fotz i'll reply in each of the above separately. yes, the windsor is rarely chosen into X series. i just remembered @ashXFute has the windsor in XF but auto though, might be able to share some more answers related to firewall position/heater hose clearance.. thread here yes the XF T5 mount should mount the 6cyT5 in the right spot on a clevo/CRS bell housing into XE XF .. i don't know about the EB to XH bell housing/V8 box though. have you tried contacting CRS? they may have these answers. they may not also. in My opinion, (not sure) the windsor should put the gear stick in the same spot as a clevo. (if so, then XF 6cyl tail shaft will work etc on a CRS bell housing) CRS may know the answer, try calling them. see above reply, 26mm further back if it ends up there is right in the brace for the bucket seat reinforcing .. so you don't want to be there unless the windsor actually does mount further forward? something to confirm/check with CRS etc or AshXFute may be able to check? also see previous answer, if it does put the stick further back, thats into the seat brace reinforcing. i'm sure an engineer would want some reinforcing if it was cut into.. and then you'd need a shorter tail shaft if so i would think(assuming the mounting face to extension housing of a V8 T5 is otherwise identical, then also the T5 cross member may not reach this far back(there's some adjustment, not as much as the Mal Wood one above.. perhaps call Mal Wood also. (i Hear he's a busy man, so try to get your questions simple for a short call) this i don't know. if the difference Clevo to Windsor is how the left bank cylinders are staged, then the bell housing face and engine mounts could be identical? i thought this was the reason the windsor heads cleared the heater. can't confirm sorry, i'd call CRS first, if they are unhelpful i'd be surprised. you could mention if they don't mind you can put the info into the Ozfalcon.com.au forum with a mention of their advice (for future enquiries/sales) they may spend more time thinking about it than otherwise. (the last time i rang CRS, Rod Hadfield was still there, that was long ago. )

and another

here's a link to a useful thread for you hopefully, i haven't read for ages

mal wood makes a repro T5 cross member for XE XF https://malwoodauto.com.au/product/xe-xf-t5-cross-member/

i'll explain in My words what's happening with (6cy) T5 bell housing for V8 from CRS, the 6cyl and V8 single rail 4 speed is same everything in the front as a 6cyl T5(other than diameter of the hole needed for the carrier that holds the thrust race. ) so when using the CRS bell housing, you can use everything from an XA to XE single rail V8 set up on a cleveland.. (not sure about the balance of a windsor, they always confuse me when it's mentioned... as in, if the flywheels are balanced same) a T5 6cyl XF and single rail 6cyl XF use same shifter location, and tailshaft but the T5's gearbox crossmember is different, it's bent in a banana shape(i made one for My XE because i couldn't find one.. EA ones are same also) here is the 6cyl T5 mount i made for XE/XF about 20yrs ago and here is how many 6cyl T5 to single rail bell housings were done 20yrs ago note the lower bolt holes aren't used(no bell housing support there) but drilled and bolted in a different spot. in this case, the carrier that holds the thrust race was removed and machined down in diameter to match the single rail bell housing, but people have also bored out the single rail bell housing to fit the t5 directly.. and @gerg welded on metal for the lower T5 bolts to be used on his.

can't see it lasting much longer ....peak tourism $$ will steer the govco's choices

good news on the job, I'm surprised Qld would be affected this long, but i guess there's no tourists coming in.

i remember we had some similar issue with Daves XE ghia, bought one, must have been GL, Dave didn't have the spacer because his car is a ghia, so ended up buying the ghia one which worked fine, i think the ghia one should work in a GL because a Ghia wheel fits and works perfect on GL but i know there has been issues, just cant remember (maybe XD boss has been listed wrong, they use a dished wheel by comparison i don't remember)

i can't remember exactly, but i know the Ghia/fairlane etc doesn't have that spacer ring a stock GL steering wheel had, so the boss kit for ghia takes this into account (that you wouldn't have the spacer if you had a ghia) i'd like to confirm this with @Panko or @Mr Polson perhaps. been a long time since i had one and it was second hand.

missed this post, @Andrew Davies if it's an XD ALLOY head block or later it will fit the EST or TFI or XE electronic dizzy no problem, (only the iron head has the big shaft points dizzy)

next cold start you are going to do, gently tip a kettle full of Hot(not boiling but hot) over the gas converter (take 60 seconds) then try start it after that, if it runs as warm. it's got to be GUNK in the hinges or the seats inside. a brand new B2 was about $180 ish last i heard(few yrs ago) so might be worth just getting a new one. i'm sure the gas tuner if they know what they are doing would spot an issue fairly easily with 25L per 100km its' a lot of gas(My 351 was using 20Lper 100 in XD and XE)

is the mixer a CA or FB one (label on the side) the FB (feed back) is designed to run rich and be "trimmed" by the impco commander computer thing using an O2 sensor etc.. if you have this, buy and fit a CA diaphram, i was told it should be simple as that? (never done it) otherwise, something's fucky.. either the mixture or power valve needs adjusting til you get it right.. (a ROUGH way i've been told is keep turning the power valve down (has L and R for lean/rich adjustment) until the car is gutless then gradually creep it up until you are averaging 15L per 100km ish with good power.. the other screw is base mixture that mostly affects idle but has some input to the overall mixture. i've never messed with them much, i've always just fitted another converter if that had an issue, and the mixers i don't think i've ever had an issue with.

any chance there's a vacuum leak between the mixer(200) and the head? i found this once, the seller of the car told me it had a burned valve as it was missing on one cyl(but when i did a compression test it was fine) i assume it must have backfired once? blowing the gasket out. otherwise look for loose carby bolts or vacuum trees or hoses off/cracked if there's definitely no leaks, i'd consider just adjusting the mixture on the mixer until it smooths out. or get it on a analyser to be done properly.. how much LPG is it using per 100km, should be around 15L per 100km if reasonably stock engine. if it's using more, it's probably too rich, if much less, probably lean

XD calipers are different to XE and XF calipers. and the mounting plates. for converting a drum diff, i'd just find a disc brake diff whole. if you want or need a good hand brake.. keep the drums

@gerg is this the issue you had with your diff? disc/drum difference