deankdx

it should be findable in XE and XF falcon(wagon) with leaf springs, it seems more common in XE and XF sedans for whatever reason. and fairlane/ltd of same (coil springs) i haven't seen a combo that was consistent with ford.. seen My brothers 3.3 XF auto with 2.77 ratio, and i've had 2.92 and 2.77 in many others(i've owned HEAPS of XD XE XF over the last 25yrs up till about 5yrs ago) wrecked a few for parts also.

if the hole size is too big, it's for the points dizzy upto XD cast iron head(or XC) DG2 is what's needed for alloy head blocks to be honest, i've never heard of the DG2A gear, because almost no one plays with the iron head motor. its a similar story for the clevo, so you can't put a points dizzy in a later block.

they are one of the easiest gearboxes to remove. if you have the means, it would be a lot easier to work on... or take back to the builder with a WTF.. undo this please

i had to google what they have even(been well over 10yrs since i've had one) i remember having to file the rounded off nut to a smaller size to get a different socket on one once looking at it in the pics below.. if you got despeate(saw a video recently where someone said make sure you can undo the filler, before draining the oil... good tip) but it looks like you could fill it from the speedo drive if need be.. but you'd need to make sure you got the correct amount of oil in.

fuel cut solenoid in this pic with the red wire on it(higher red wire, lower one won't be on XE carby) just make sure it's connected, they rarely fail. could check the carby is squirting fuel, might have broken off a crusty 30yr old fuel hose near the power steering hose and it's sucking air instead of fuel also

i still think you should check the carby again for the fuel cut solenoid. i'm fairly sure it can run above idle but they dont idle if the fuel cut solenoid wire is off(and may not start without throttle open)

they work without goo initially... might be an issue as it gets hotter though

take a photo (get the tapatalk app and upload with the phone if possible, or read My signature for how to upload with imgur.com , you can only upload small files on this site) of the wires and hoses on the carby, there's a fuel cut solenoid that you might have upset ? sure it's not flooded? check the contact inside the dizzy cap that runs on the rotor button, i've had them stick inward and blew my muffler up on 2 different cars back in the day. doesn't make any sense.. if it's got spark, it should only need spark at the right time, and fuel. if you bought some pulleys recently, you bought them from Me.. Welcome to the site

yeah there's 3 different rear seals cant remember the XE type casting numer, leaded XF had 84DA block(number is near the coil, cast into it) has the first one piece seal, 86DA has the same size as the E series, and has been people fitting E series cranks to crossflows, supposedly better balanced.. (although, i'm fairly sure SLY250 is still crossflow? )

just tagged you in My gemini project for the wheels i'm cleaning up, one of these type nylon wheels might be handy for hard to access spots there's a few different shapes, from supercheap(pic is from google, the one i have fits in a impact driver )

not the input shaft, the thrust race slide/front bearing support? whatever it's called.

you could run a tape measure along the 3 speed from bell to tailshaft yoke, same for single rail. if same length that will be easy. with the diff, you might be able to find an XR to XY auto diff, i would think they'd be 2.92. already, or you can swap ratios.. usually costs a bit.. due to new bearings etc. $500 ish? @chestnut has had this done more than anyone lately you might be able to take off front nose of the single rail and 3 speed and swap them if lucky or take the 4 speed one to be turned down (easier than bell housing possibly) drilling the hole should be simple enough

yes, theres a hose type fitting in the rocker cover around the middle. just put a hose inline with pcv valve in it

yes, but wait there's more.. the single rail doesn't directly bolt to the 3 speed,(can't remember if it's only one bolt that doesn't or 3 of the 4?) you'll need the 4 speed (or T5 one) clutch plate, because the splines are different on the input shaft. yeah USA sourced S10 T5 shifter setup, i have only seen one done into a cortina and that was so long ago i'd never find or remember what the story was.. can't remember if the 3 speed tailshaft is same as the 4 speed @Thom, may know? got a feeling the splines may be different not sure on the length. with the single rail, you also need the extension housing from the cortina, and the rail, i think the shifter setup itself might be same(have seen someone mount it on a plate further forward though by cutting the selector rail and just moving the shifter part of a falcon one.. more fun with mods)

i'd estimate the 3.23 diff would be around 2600rpm at 100kmh. with a 2.92 and same box would get it down to 2350 ish the overdrive on a T5 with the 3.23 would be around 2000rpm. i've had the 2.92 and 2.77 with T5 and it's closer to 1800.. the difference is, it didn't make any(or much at all) difference to fuel economy and the main noticable difference is NOISE at highway speeds. if you are going to use a single rail, be sure to replace the selector rail seal, 99.5% of the time these are flogged out and leaking oil. (i've bought a few cars that didn't leak a drop.. because they were EMPTY of oil ) remove extension housing to replace, need to knock a roll pin out of the gearshift end of the shaft to remove.. the other thing to note is the XB diff is wider, not HEAPS wider than an XR-XY diff, but if you have deep dish wheels now, you should measure the drum to drum width and check.. they do fit with stock wheels, not sure on wide ones. also depends if you have a bench seat, if so.. the single rail with cortina housing will fit better with that, i'm sure you'd need to chop the seat up a bit for a T5 or even falcon single rail stick location. i reckon the ratios are perfect with a 2.92 diff and 4 speed . (that said, a T5 is much the same, with the addition of 5th you can pretty much only use at 100kmh with this ratio) with the 3.23 diff, you row through the gears quicker, this is different if you've fitted a bigger cam that revs higher happily(most stock ones run out of puff around 4000) lots to consider is the single rail bell housing a hydraulic one also? they came in 3 different configurations so to speak (hydraulic, cable on the drivers side pre unleaded, and cable on the left due to space for the cat on the unleaded) if it was Me, i'd keep all the bits regardless. can always swap and change later.