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to land just those pistons will be around a grand its a pitty there is not another more cheaper way ,perhaps invest that money in a set of cheaper alloy heads at 62cc ? hmmm its just not fair the aussie dollar against the us dollar and all that postage,the one good thing about this score as he is throwing in a edelbrock alloy intake i assume its used ,what about decking the hell out of the block ? is this advisable to mill as much as 60 thou odd to bump it up cause then you could mill the used alloy intake ? i got the motor for $600 including the intake i have only seen pictures but looks ok .

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to land just those pistons will be around a grand its a pitty there is not another more cheaper way ,perhaps invest that money in a set of cheaper alloy heads at 62cc ? hmmm its just not fair the aussie dollar against the us dollar and all that postage,the one good thing about this score as he is throwing in a edelbrock alloy intake i assume its used ,what about decking the hell out of the block ? is this advisable to mill as much as 60 thou odd to bump it up cause then you could mill the used alloy intake ? i got the motor for $600 including the intake i have only seen pictures but looks ok .
If you take heaps off the block and/or heads, you'll need new pushrods, so add that to the expense. Don't bother with cheap heads, that's a recipe for disaster. Too many horror stories getting round regarding that kind of product.

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well i will grab the donk he reckons its all there except a camshaft ,also is it better to go the spider to hold down single roller lifters or just buy roller lifters with a link bar ? i also heard a rumor if you use the say efi 5.OL ones the oiling hole must face the inside or something otherwise it wont meter properly or something like tat.

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well i will grab the donk he reckons its all there except a camshaft ,also is it better to go the spider to hold down single roller lifters or just buy roller lifters with a link bar ? i also heard a rumor if you use the say efi 5.OL ones the oiling hole must face the inside or something otherwise it wont meter properly or something like tat.
I would go with the spiders, only because that's what Ford used from factory. It needs some drilling/tapping but if you're getting it all machined, that's easy once it's all in bits and getting washed anyway.

I think there are retrofit spider type for clevos, best off getting a kit with the correct base circle so the oil holes don't pop out of the bores

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i remember down at the machine shop olm8 built a 393 clevo and used crow or crower roller cam and very expensive link bar roller lifters that were around a grand ,cam is about 6 or 700 bux,wtf

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i remember down at the machine shop olm8 built a 393 clevo and used crow or crower roller cam and very expensive link bar roller lifters that were around a grand ,cam is about 6 or 700 bux,wtf
Yep, that's what they go for. No getting around that and the s*** thing is, 5.0 Windsor kits are about half that but won't go into a clevo without the aforementioned issues

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hey what about milling the 351m piston it is taller at 1.918 as the 400 is 1.630 ,that would be about a 220 thou mill is that viable ,the pistons are as cheap as anything.

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thats about a 5.580mm chop to get it to near zero deck,the pistons have a huge grand canyon but what about the valve reliefs ? do you need them
I think nearly 1/4 off the top of a piston is way too much. They're not very thick to start with, I reckon that's a recipe for a big, hole-melting disaster.


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i dont find any info on the internet about anybody doing it,but other alterniative methods are to bush the rod and use normal clevo pistons that are 1.645 comp height ,a bit closer to the deck than the 1.630 400 pistons,but once again $400 for pistons and machine shop work is gunna be close to asking price for the forged US ones.

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i dont find any info on the internet about anybody doing it,but other alterniative methods are to bush the rod and use normal clevo pistons that are 1.645 comp height ,a bit closer to the deck than the 1.630 400 pistons,but once again $400 for pistons and machine shop work is gunna be close to asking price for the forged US ones.
I think a lot of people have been through exactly this scenario and came to the same conclusion, hence the reason why they can charge that much for the pistons.

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I think a lot of people have been through exactly this scenario and came to the same conclusion, hence the reason why they can charge that much for the pistons.

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The postage is a killer and the difference between aussie and us dollar

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The postage is a killer and the difference between aussie and us dollar

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I picked up the 400 std bore and pieces looks complete almost ? 1st look it seems to be identical to the last one febb40efd2db620e32aca7dc41a5fe9b.jpg

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Rear mounted transverse 400 v8 falcon..... Should wheel stand pretty easy
Someone at least greased the bores and dont let a little bit of surface rust worry me this 400 is another 71 or 72 with the small dish on the piston @ 9.2.1 1973 onwards came the big dish ones ,it has galaxy mounts,D1 casting DIF dearbourne cast foundry and cast date seems 1972 with the stampnumber on the timing housing this is meant to be the day it was assembled,tomorrow will sus it out more,also came with early cast wieand dual plane same as last one i bought but quite old and slightly different in writing

c4ada351af514d50825fd13da83b307e.jpgc451b9114d86c7eb93ab89323ee0a3da.jpg6d587c683948febe9375d86477e6c539.jpg9a1385a3668b783571dc7bc9922dce7f.jpg06cec4ba8888edafed8c1ecd617590e2.jpg30a475a0732e809eaa0c60128d41863e.jpgb64a91af3b39c769ce7bc8258a8c77bb.jpgd9dae21967bdd205e37f2069ceaba716.jpge8f4eea78987beb01ea6ea469b970723.jpg

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[mention=7196]CHESTNUTXE[/mention] 2D27 1972 April 27th https://www.fordification.com/tech/datecodes.htm
Same pistons I Iooked at when you built your last one, I was thinking of a "street/strip" 400M build, Molner H beams, Comp 308R street Solid Roller cam, AFD/CHI 3V, CHI intake,
 
 
The last one i put sealed power pistons with a bigger dish ,its possible the std ones still might be ok for a re ringer ,wont know untill ol m8 puts it in the tank to clean it up then sus it out a bit

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The last one i put sealed power pistons with a bigger dish ,its possible the std ones still might be ok for a re ringer ,wont know untill ol m8 puts it in the tank to clean it up then sus it out a bit

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Ok some of it is throwaway and some is good like all pushrods are there and cam plate and all head bolts ,has d2 balancer,bearings are 010 on crank and std on rodsaf062483f984e2a4d48c6f56a3d9a724.jpg1da8b174947bdcc4e0441671f1b7a287.jpg4f667e1f208d41747204fa7f092b6121.jpg

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Could use Flat tops, closed chamber heads, and 3 head gaskets. LMAO.......

 

Seriuously, solid copper head gaskets ain't cheap, but, offset that to all the other work you might need. Could get a 0.100" gasket made to adjust compression ratio. (Will prob alter your rocker geometry as well.)

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Could use Flat tops, closed chamber heads, and 3 head gaskets. LMAO.......
 
Seriuously, solid copper head gaskets ain't cheap, but, offset that to all the other work you might need. Could get a 0.100" gasket made to adjust compression ratio. (Will prob alter your rocker geometry as well.)
The manifold has not seen much work or if any tbh its just an oldie but should clean up ok05f54ad7f18554fb7246d18cebac425e.jpgb38346ce0405370b056a5260711f09d9.jpg8579b057c4360ca2fdba347766f47a2e.jpg5befa3406462972f8e02340485b1dd27.jpg

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Wow.!   Still got the not legal in all 50 states stamp>!!!
Whats the best to make it nice again ? Bead blasting or something

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If you have a Karcher, you can get an attachment for wet sand blasting that will bring it up smick. I did my set of snowies a few years ago and they came out like new. Just used river sand out of my kid's sandpit.

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If you have a Karcher, you can get an attachment for wet sand blasting that will bring it up smick. I did my set of snowies a few years ago and they came out like new. Just used river sand out of my kid's sandpit.

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I stripped the motor and gave a few washesbc85719fb97136127ca0f04fbb56b786.jpg

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