CHESTNUTXE 7,312 Posted April 9, 2020 For once im on the opposite side of the argument from bear and gerg, personally I like to put a fresh engine on the dyno as soon as possible, the dyno can be used as a tool to properly bed rings in quicker and easier than it can be to do it on the street, also you can get your carb and ignition tuning correct usually with less trial and error than street tuning in the first few 100ksI just went with this plot and seems to be fine atm Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,312 Posted April 9, 2020 about 13 at idle and 32 max by 3000 2 Boingk and gerg reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted April 9, 2020 For once im on the opposite side of the argument from bear and gerg, personally I like to put a fresh engine on the dyno as soon as possible, the dyno can be used as a tool to properly bed rings in quicker and easier than it can be to do it on the street, also you can get your carb and ignition tuning correct usually with less trial and error than street tuning in the first few 100ksI do agree somewhat with what you say Thom, in that although you shouldn't thrash it, importantly you don't baby it either. I do think that a tune on a fresh engine might be a bit different from a tune on a nice loose one. In any case, a dyno run-in is a good way to bed an engine in a controlled environment, with all the vitals being monitored closely. However a tight engine will be down on power slightly and isn't a proper indication of its actual output once bedded, so given my experiences, an actual power run isn't really relevant until that happens. I remember first tank of juice on my fresh 302 got 30 litres per hundred, must have been working hard just turning itself. These days with 80k on board, I get in the mid to high teens. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk 2 Thom and CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted April 9, 2020 about 13 at idle and 32 max by 3000That's a good start, but you really need to hook up the MAP sensor to get the most out of that MSD. You're really only using half the potential of what it can do otherwise. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk 1 CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,312 Posted April 9, 2020 That's a good start, but you really need to hook up the MAP sensor to get the most out of that MSD. You're really only using half the potential of what it can do otherwise. Sent from my CPH1903 using TapatalkIt is hooked up but i cant work out what yur going on aboutSent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,312 Posted April 9, 2020 It is hooked up but i cant work out what yur going on aboutSent from my SM-G570Y using TapatalkSee its hooked up but now what ? It says default is 1 bar for n/a engines i think we have been thru this b4 but now what ? Load the msd disc and go to boost retard and plot a reverse graph ? But how do you figure it out my timing is 32 total by 3000 so what would you do now ?Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted April 9, 2020 It acts like a vac advance in reverse ie: it takes timing out under load, allowing more to be dialled in to start with.You would have it start at 0 deg retard and ramp it down starting at about 9 psi. Take the ramp down to about 8 degrees at about 12 psi and level it out all the way to 15. That's a good start, you then go and advance your dizzy by the amount you took out on this curve to get to the same as you had before under load (you said it felt pretty happy there) the difference now is that you have more at idle and cruise. It will make for a much happier cruiser.Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk 2 CHESTNUTXE and Thom reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,312 Posted May 6, 2020 It acts like a vac advance in reverse ie: it takes timing out under load, allowing more to be dialled in to start with.You would have it start at 0 deg retard and ramp it down starting at about 9 psi. Take the ramp down to about 8 degrees at about 12 psi and level it out all the way to 15. That's a good start, you then go and advance your dizzy by the amount you took out on this curve to get to the same as you had before under load (you said it felt pretty happy there) the difference now is that you have more at idle and cruise. It will make for a much happier cruiser.Sent from my CPH1903 using TapatalkNow the first crank to me looks like a xb to xe 351 c crank with the ar number and bold 351 cast onto it Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk 1 gerg reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted May 6, 2020 Looking up close, that really needs a grind. I thought ARD1AE might be XB-XC era, seeing as they changed the Aussie numbering system after XC so the year came first (ie: "76DA", etc) but then again so few 351s came out in XC-XD-XE that they could have just used cranks from the same inventory all the way to the end. I have a very rusty 4MA crank that looks like it might be an early US casting.Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk 1 CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,312 Posted May 6, 2020 Looking up close, that really needs a grind. I thought ARD1AE might be XB-XC era, seeing as they changed the Aussie numbering system after XC so the year came first (ie: "76DA", etc) but then again so few 351s came out in XC-XD-XE that they could have just used cranks from the same inventory all the way to the end. I have a very rusty 4MA crank that looks like it might be an early US casting.Sent from my CPH1903 using TapatalkNext one is 4ma B always a debate between 4ma and 4ma B some us forums say the B is for brinel hardness test and always other theories but ford did use the 4ma B in high performance applications Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,270 Posted May 6, 2020 Probably means they actually Brinell "tested" the hardness, to find the most suited for high performance, and the rest they didn't. 2 Thom and CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted May 6, 2020 I've read that the "B" means a casting revision. The Brinell test is a punch mark on the first counterweight to determine material properties.Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk 1 CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,270 Posted May 7, 2020 Magnafluxed, balanced and linished, still good for 6 grand, even a stocky. 2 CHESTNUTXE and gerg reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted May 7, 2020 Also reading about clevo cranks, none from factory were ever steelGood for 7500 rpm if balanced. That"s a factory hotrod!Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk 1 bear351c reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,312 Posted May 7, 2020 i bought a set of doae xagt rods off e bay late last night,paid a small fortune for them but matching to the 4ma B Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,270 Posted May 7, 2020 for sure, but its all the other stuff that breaks at 7 grand. LMAO...Valves pop their heads off, rocker studs pull out of the heads, pushrods end up a funny Z shape... 2 CHESTNUTXE and gerg reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted May 7, 2020 Is there any difference to the other rods, other than part number (for correctness)Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk 1 CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,312 Posted May 7, 2020 Umm err probly as 10 million people wanted to buy them ,but any early cleveland gear especially 1970 is tresured as rods were tripple cheese burgerd and selected . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SPArKy_Dave 8,881 Posted May 8, 2020 On 5/7/2020 at 5:26 PM, bear351c said: for sure, but its all the other stuff that breaks at 7 grand. LMAO...Valves pop their heads off, rocker studs pull out of the heads, pushrods end up a funny Z shape... Three of my pushrods, ended up a funny Z shape, just from starting it... 1 1 CHESTNUTXE and bear351c reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,312 Posted May 14, 2020 Three of my pushrods, ended up a funny Z shape, just from starting it... Scored this 4 barrel intake for $30 it will come up good with a clean even tho its the ugly duckling of clevo 4 barrels 76da 302c intake but i have used them on 351c and work fine on std engine my sandblaster should clean this up great, just the vaccum tree is worth $30 Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk 1 1 gerg and gregaust reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,312 Posted May 22, 2020 On 1/31/2020 at 9:18 AM, CHESTNUTXE said: So what is the go when trying to find the correct Speedo gear for say 2.92 ? The black spiral thing is the big gear i guess ? I also managed to get the navy seal out Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk i have been looking for this picture for weeks ,see the little black drive gear on the shaft what count is it ? maybe 6 cause with 2.92 my speedo using orange 20 is out big time,at 100kph it reads 74kph,i was under the impreesion i had a 8 driven gear but now i doubt it,there is a bigger blown up picture a few pages back. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,312 Posted May 22, 2020 or is that black thing something else ? further up the shaft looks like teeth machined into it so which one is it ? please help Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SPArKy_Dave 8,881 Posted May 22, 2020 The worm drive, looks like it's machined into the output shaft, on that transmission? I'd try a driven gear with less teeth, to speed it up? Driven Gear Teeth = Drive Gear Teeth x Gear Ratio x Tyre Revolutions per mile, divided by 1001. Tyre Revolutions per mile = 20,168 divided by Tyre Diameter in Inches Tyre Diameter in Inches = (section width x aspect ratio divided by 2540x2 + Wheel Diameter Example - 225 x 60/2540 x2 + 15 = 25.63 20,168 / 25.63 = 786.89 Example - Drive gear = 6 teeth (common on C6 Transmissions) Gear ratio = 2.92:1 Tyre Rev per mile = 786.89 Divide by 1001 6 x 2.92 x 786.89 / 1001 = 13.77 Teeth Smallest you can get is 16teeth I think? So it will probably be out about 10km/hr, but heaps better. 1 CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,312 Posted May 22, 2020 This is where it dont make sense i had 3.45 before with same 20 orange and was not far off correct only 10km out dash reading 90kph at 100kph Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SPArKy_Dave 8,881 Posted May 22, 2020 1 hour ago, CHESTNUTXE said: This is where it dont make sense i had 3.45 before with same 20 orange and was not far off correct only 10km out dash reading 90kph at 100kph Example - Drive gear = 6 teeth (common on C6 Transmissions) Gear ratio = 3.45:1 Tyre Rev per mile = 786.89 Divide by 1001 6 x 3.45 x 786.89 / 1001 = 16.27 Teeth 1 CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites