CHESTNUTXE 7,318 Posted July 28, 2017 should be some good shops in adelaide,just mail it under 22kg regular post is cheap. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lord_fahrquhar 2,580 Posted July 29, 2017 yeah there is just want to see if anyone on here has a preference. 1 CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,318 Posted July 29, 2017 if you pm broken wheel he knows a joint in Brisbane or its in crossflow do's and donts but every shop will have a different theory to hp gains,be prepared to fork out many thousands for a completely sorted head ready to use Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,318 Posted July 29, 2017 i bought another crossy for $50 will pick up tomorrow unknown year model but has alloy head ,almost complete,good parts on it to muck around with.could be corty motor. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted July 30, 2017 Corty motor will have engine number starting with "CG" instead of "JG".Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk 2 CHESTNUTXE and Valvebouncer reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,318 Posted July 30, 2017 ok i only saw a picture of it ,hole will be drilled at back for dip stick too yeah ?,i have 3 crossys nowi can do a kerosine rebuild on one put some rings and bearings in it and sell/spare engine ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted July 30, 2017 It should be drilled but with a ball bearing peened in to block it off. Should be able to punch it back out from inside. Don't chuck out the sump, #5 main bolts (they're special studs) or the pickup. Those bits are getting rare now. Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk 2 CHESTNUTXE and Outback Jack reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,318 Posted July 30, 2017 good info i never new that. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,318 Posted July 31, 2017 i got the dizzy back together with new parts and did a test fit with just the black est plug but its still to close imo,should be able to wire it directly to the 3 pins that go up underneath. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,318 Posted July 31, 2017 new wheel,and inside guts,and crow dizzy gear. 1 Outback Jack reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mustardxf2 310 Posted July 31, 2017 Mines just wierd to the three pins but with out the black but just straight up under it Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk 2 Outback Jack and CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,318 Posted July 31, 2017 yep thats what i intend to do,ol.m8 has orderd another fitting to lift the oil mod connection up a 1/4 of an inch should do it,but i would be more comfy with 1/2 inch . 1 Mustardxf2 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lord_fahrquhar 2,580 Posted August 1, 2017 could always install it sideways and adapt the clamp to suit.... if the oil feed is still an issue. 2 Valvebouncer and Outback Jack reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted August 2, 2017 On 7/31/2017 at 5:08 PM, Mustardxf2 said: Mines just wierd to the three pins but with out the black but just straight up under it Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk Yes you could do it like this via flag terminals but it would still not be weather proof as it the point of the caps. In saying that people...I have mine wired in without the weather caps for ohhhhhhhhhhhh like 6 or more years with zero issues and a few car washes but not much rain driving. 1 CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,318 Posted August 2, 2017 it should be fine 😊 cause it ain't gunna be a daily driver,altho does look good with the black cover Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,318 Posted August 4, 2017 head bolt question,it says on number 13 bolt to put some sealer and only tourque to 75nm i suppose its the bolt that goes down next to the water pump the one with the long hex on it,but what sought of sealer ? silicon ? loc tite ? or anything Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted August 4, 2017 Holden head stud sealer works best. But of late I been using some permatex shit and never had a issue. I also wind mine down to full tension. That bolt (stud in my case) was machined down a bit and I stack 4 hardened washers and have never cracked a block. Did it on a 84DA and my current 86DA. Current combo has had the head on and off maybe 10 times or more? 1 CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,318 Posted August 5, 2017 tomorrow i will bolt the head on and fit lifters and top end assembly ,i have never done a solid b4,so im gunna take my time and re watch a few vid's on how its done,the last few clevo's i did with the exhaust just opening then ajust intake,then intake almost closed ,then adjust exhaust i think thats how it goes ,but i have had better success with doing rocker assembly at tdc with doing both at the same time,i suppose both ways are good ,just make sure your on the back of the cam. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted August 5, 2017 Lifters first of course...? Good lube like Joe Gibbs or Penrite Red lube and the absolute best break in oil you can buy.Again Joe Gibbs or Penrite are my choices. If you skimp out on first start up your making the engines chance of longer life shorter than it can be. Did you leave the Inner springs out for start run in ? 1 CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,318 Posted August 5, 2017 i usualy buy comp cams break in,i have the small joe gibbs assembly lube,but i dont even have a car to put it in yet,so its gunna sit on the stand for a bit,but latley been thinking about making a start up stand just for the hell of it as it comes in handy when building quite a few motors,also fun to annoy neighbors with no exhaust,nope the head is fully assembled with inners ,i no most recomend taking out the inners for break in,just might do that as i dont want any fuk-ups,will mark the pushrods too ,to make sure they are turning . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted August 5, 2017 Leaving the inners in is all but a certain recipe for cam lifter failure. Never had one last on a solid unless inners removed due to spring pressure they run. 1 CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,318 Posted August 5, 2017 yep i will drop the head back down to the shop and get them removed,then how long b4 re installing them ? a couple of hours run in ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,318 Posted August 5, 2017 actualy come to think of it lol i think it just has inner dampers,and beefy singles,i will check tomorrow Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,318 Posted August 5, 2017 does anyone no the correct permatex name for the head bolt sealer as autobarn dont have a clue Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
josh1990 58 Posted August 6, 2017 1 hour ago, CHESTNUTXE said: does anyone no the correct permatex name for the head bolt sealer as autobarn dont have a clue You mean this stuff? - http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Permatex-High-Performance-Thread-Sealant-50mL/129928 https://www.permatex.com/products/thread-compounds/thread-sealants/permatex-high-performance-thread-sealant/ 2 Outback Jack and CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites