josh1990

You mean this stuff? - http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Permatex-High-Performance-Thread-Sealant-50mL/129928 https://www.permatex.com/products/thread-compounds/thread-sealants/permatex-high-performance-thread-sealant/

Would it be a waste of time fitting an AFR gauge after the catalytic converter? Tuners slap it up the pipe so surely not? Got a free bung there, so may as well use it if I can.

Nope, that price is for the slave and bleeder. Plus about $17 postage. Even Mal's full billet T56 CSC is only $240ish. You can pick up the Alloy camira slave for as low as $90ish. But to add a remote bleeder is about $60ish for a HEL brand by memory. So I bought Mals for the bleeder, next time I'll grab one without it and transfer it over. They should be changed with every new clutch. My clutch kit came with the plastic falcon one, I've shelved it for a spare. Edit - my mistake, it's a billet piston and $245 https://malwoodauto.com.au/product/alloy-t56-slave-cylinder-billet/

Woah, $800 for a slave? Alloy one from a T56 Camira will work (well, it does in BA conversion). Mal Wood also sells alloy one with bleeder for $150 (https://malwoodauto.com.au/product/alloy-t56-slave-cylinder/). Worth it just for ease of bleeding, which is a massive pita on these boxes. Homemade spacers to get the correct crush. I was lucky enough to get my T56 for $800. 10k kms out of a BF Turbo. Only problem, it was in Darwin. My little bro did a favour for one of his mates up there and got it down here at no cost to me. My tailshaft cost me $570 including gearbox yoke.

I'm presuming a custom bellhousing will take up a fair whack of that cost? My 6 speed conversion cost me under $2500 with a new flywheel, h/d clutch, custom tailshaft and diff gears.

Just an update on my T56 and the Pro Gear. Rollover is way quieter than any manual I've ever had. I've been giving it a workout too, not just Bitch shifting it. Lit it up well into 5th gear (shit tyres and a bit greasy from oil brought up by rain), just kept grabbing gears waiting for traction. Overall I am very surprised and happy with the shifting quality (especially considering my shifter itself is nearly cactus and being held together with spot welds). Will be looking at a Mal Wood ultimate when the time comes. No Dex for me

The box has 10k kms on it. If it doesn't work as advertised I'll get a refund on it and run something else.

In my experience using (mineral) gear oil in place of Dex III, the box should be worse when its cold. When it warms up its always been brilliant. Less rollover noise, better feel and quicker shifts. However, I don't know if using gear oil lead to the demise of the synchro's in my T5 either. Personally I'd be using Castrol Transmax Z in the T5 (I will be using the Pro Gear in the T56 though, as its designed specifically for it) as the synchros in the T5 boxes are rubbish (updated ones are ok-ish, but old style are paper-y) as it is and gear oil doesn't play well with them at all hence the Borg Warner/Tremec reccomendation of Dex III. I know T56 has same reccomendation of Dex III but there are plenty of reviews (both Ford and Daewoo) of it being the best fluid for the T56.

The XR6 Turbo actually runs a T5z box. Little bit stronger, but then take into consideration the motor is a little (lot) stronger too. Have just murdered my 5th (or is it 6th) T5 box. This latest one is behind a virtaully stock Barra, CAI only. Lost 5th and Reverse, synchros stuffed. Mal Wood quoted ~$700 for new bearings, seals and synchros. Plus I've never put one together so went T56 instead. Barra T5 and T5z harder to find than their <AU counterparts, 26 spline input vs 10 spline.

As stated, the gearboxes are trash. It will last for a while stock, depending on how you drive of course. But as soon as you want more power it'll be 6 speed time (T56, TR6060) or a TKO. Then when you do pop the 5 speed, you'll struggle to find a decent 2nd hand one that hasn't been flogged. Modifying the 5 speed can be done, but it's just as expensive if not more than the 6 speed conversion. 3.5k is too much dinero to pay. Also, consider how the vehicle may have been treated by previous owners. Turbo + Manual? I'd be driving that Bitch like I stole it erryday. It could end up costing you more.

As above, if you take it to Supercheap, they have a free battery test which will also does alternator charge test. And a starter test too.

Running DBA T2 rotors with bendix ultra premium (fancy name for GCT) pads in my ute. The standard rotors warp under sustained braking (like when towing) so I moved to the DBA. No more shudder, pull a load up great and on the off chance I get to go for a fang through the hills, perform brilliantly. Next time? Same again. Happy with how they work. Wife's Corolla, has RDA slotted rotors (were cheaper at time) and GP Max pads. These are an improvement (slight) over standard, however are shit. The rotors rust virtually overnight, they shudder a bit (not the wheels either) and the pads are dusty. Hopefully won't need to replace these before we replace the car though - its a piece of shit anyway.